Description

The very vertical crag of Luhti is one of the best in the capital region. It is best suited for the upper mid-grade climber. Many sustained and high quality routes especially in the 6b/6c range. The location of the crag right next to a river makes it quite peaceful and surrounded by nature.

The morning sun shines for a while onto the eastern wall, until it turns behind the cliff. The cliff face is mostly shaded and thus dries slowly. The routes on the cliff face are on smooth and extraordinarily good rock. The area in front of the cliff face is in places filled with jagged rocks and thus hard to traverse, but is mostly safe.

History

Luhti crag was found right after the millenium. The first routes were done by Tomi Nytorp, Sami Maukonen, Miika Mustonen and Jari Uusikivi.

Development was very active during the first decade untill more or less everything was done. These days Luhti crag has become very popular

Routes on Luhti
17 Sport 22 Trad 115 Likes
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Premium topo by SKIL - Team Access
Ville Muittari
V. Muittari
from Jyväskylä
Elina Seppälä
E. Seppälä
from Helsinki
Perttu Ollila
P. Ollila
from Turku, Finland
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Luhti

Climbing has been limited!

Access update 14.6.2024: Google maps believes you can't drive along Viljamaantie so it gives incorrect directions. Therefore navigate to the secondary parking marker (otherwise you will be detoured through the landowners' yard), then continue to the primary parking spot.
It's absolutely prohibited to park anywhere else than the described parking with space for three cars. If the parking is full you should go somewhere else in the area (e.g Nalkkila or Sahakallio). The neighbours are complaining and the land owner is very fed up with climbers. Thus there is a risk of closure altogether if people don't comply with the rules.

SKIL 09/2023: Luhdin kalliolla on ollut ongelmia autojen pysäköinnin suhteen ja kalliolla on ehdoton pysäköintikielto Viljamaantien varrella. Tiellä liikku leveitä työkoneita, joilla ei mahdu pysäköityjen autojen ohi, joten käyttäkää ainoastaan cragsiin merkittyä parkkipaikkaa, johon mahtuu kolme autoa.

Mikäli autoa ei saa mahtumaan parkkikselle, Viljamaantielle ei saa pysäköidä! Pitää vaihtaa suuntaa muualle, esimerkiksi lähistöllä sijaitseviin Nalkkilaan ja Sahakalliolle.

Ensisijainen parkkipaikka on väärässä paikassa, jotta 27:n appi ja Google ohjaa oikean reitin. Katso kartasta oikea parkkis.

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General Access information:

Approach takes around 6 minutes. Start by walking along the tractor path. When you reach a Y-junction, take the right fork. After only 30 steps go left along a climbers' path, which takes you to the crag. The path to the "Pikkusektori" is equally ill-defined but basically make your way fairly close to the small stream, as otherwise you end up on top of the cliff.

Access to Luhti by public transport is quite bad. During the weekends, traveling by train and bike your best bet and that results in a 22 km bike ride from the train station of Mäntsälä. During weekdays there is a bus connection between Järvenpää and Monninkylä, which runs during the morning and the afternoon. The walk from the closest bus stop is a bit less than 5 km.

If you access Luhti by car, make ABSOLUTELY SURE you read the Access updates above. Otherwise you will be risking closure of the whole climbing area!