No special access issues
Directions:
Turn west off the A39 south of Kilkhampton towards Stibb and Coombe. After descending into the Coombe Valley, take the second left up a steep hill and drive north towards Morwenstow. Park near the heavy gate at SS 2102 1338, about 150 metres north of Cleave Crescent, which is just after the perimeter of the radio station. There is limited parking on grass verges on the roadside. Do not park blocking access to the gate as this is used by large farm vehicles and for emergency access. If there is not enough room, please drive further north to further parking spaces on the left near the crossroads.
Alternatively drive south past the satellite dishes and down the hill, turn right at the bottom before the bridge where a straight road will lead you to the Duckpool car park at SS 2015 1168. Follow the coast path north up the hill, the fins can clearly be seen in the distance from the headland.
Approach:
The cliff is situated just beneath the huge white “Sci Fi” looking satellite dishes which brood ominously behind a double-fenced compound just off the coastal path and can be seen for miles around. From the parking area near the metal gate, follow the tarmac track until it meets the compound perimeter fence. When the tarmac track ends, continue following the fence to its corner post and turn left until a metal field-gate is reached. Walk parallel to the fence to reach another corner post and continue in the same straight line across the field to reach another tarmac track with some old concrete building foundations on its left. Turn right at the foundation which sits nearest the tarmac track and follow the wide grass track out toward the sea to where it narrows through the gorse and becomes the coast path. Follow it until it bends left and runs parallel with the sea heading in a southerly direction. A prominent rock tower can be seen down to the right which is the top of the crag. Further on, a small path on the right leads down to the top of the crag; a 20-minute walk from the parking-area.
Descent:
For descent to the North and Middle Fins, turn right at the rock tower (looking out to sea). The start of the descent is at the sheltered grassy bay above the North and Middle Fins; follow a faint stepped path down to reach the top of the North Fin.
If tide allows, the base of the crag can be reached by descending obvious paths at either end of the crag, although continuing erosion of the earth and shale slopes means that caution must be exercised (particularly on the southern approach). Unhindered access to, and between, the fins is possible between half and low tide. Above half tide it is possible to abseil into the bay between the North and Middle Fins from peg and nut belays down Out of the Blue near the landward end of the top of the North Fin. To get the most from your climbing day, this is the best option and, unless the sea is in a wild mood, access can be gained around one and a half hours after high water which allows you to climb Lunakhod or The Smile whilst the tide recedes. It is worth leaving the abseil rope in place and carrying prusiks etc as a backup in case of an emergency or for escape in the event of rain with an incoming tide.
If an abseil is taken, access to routes at the landward end of north face of the South Fin is possible for more of the tidal range than the other fins (unless a big sea is running). Abseiling from blocks near the landward end of the fin allows climbing on Cool Culm and Collected and Leprosy, although the starts may still be damp/ wet if approaching early on a receding tide.