All sectors
All routes on Lötsjön
Main Wall
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Main Wall
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The approach for Miniäventyr, Sommardansen, Djuplek etc. is this downclimb. Be careful as there are some rocks below the right hand section, although the climbing is very easy at this point, maybe F3
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Climb the arete on the right hand side of the wall and top-out direct
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Move up and left onto the wall to reach a sloper rail. Traverse left on the slopers with good feet and mantle out to finish. A great route, harder if you are too short to reach the slopers from the good footholds.
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Descend this to get to the start of Simskola and Borgis Hörn or climb out with wet feet after a fall (feels like F6a).
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A fine bouldery testpiece. Approach by descending Blöta Fötter, then traverse right to reach a good rest in the groove at the bottom of Borgis Hörn. From here move up and right on underclings and laybacks through the boulder problem crux (approx font 7a) to exit up and right.
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A great traverse of the main wall at low to mid-height without using the sloper rail. Balancy and technical with small hands and good feet. Follow Sommardansen for a few moves but head left where Sommardansen goes up to the sloper rail. Make balancy moves left, then drop down to close to water level. Continue left until it is possible to move up and left on laybacks and pockets before topping out straight up. It is customary to jump from the top after a successful ascent!
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Main Wall
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Climb the arete on the right hand side of the wall and top-out direct
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A crimpy, technincal extension to Sommardansen. Follow Sommardansen to the end of the sloper rail. Instead of mantling out, drop down and left using small holds to reach a flat rail underneath an overhang. Traverse left to finish up laybacks and pockets as for Djuplek.
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A great traverse of the main wall at low to mid-height without using the sloper rail. Balancy and technical with small hands and good feet. Follow Sommardansen for a few moves but head left where Sommardansen goes up to the sloper rail. Make balancy moves left, then drop down to close to water level. Continue left until it is possible to move up and left on laybacks and pockets before topping out straight up. It is customary to jump from the top after a successful ascent!
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Move up and left onto the wall to reach a sloper rail. Traverse left on the slopers with good feet and mantle out to finish. A great route, harder if you are too short to reach the slopers from the good footholds.
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Descend this to get to the start of Simskola and Borgis Hörn or climb out with wet feet after a fall (feels like F6a).
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A fine bouldery testpiece. Approach by descending Blöta Fötter, then traverse right to reach a good rest in the groove at the bottom of Borgis Hörn. From here move up and right on underclings and laybacks through the boulder problem crux (approx font 7a) to exit up and right.
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This corner is a little dirty but a fun route nonetheless. Approach by descending Blöta Fötter and make a tricky traverse right into the prominent grove. Ascend this using finger locks and bridging until holds arrive. Top out up and right.
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An excellent extension to Den Långa Sommardansen or Djuplek for those who want a little more. Instead of climbing out to finish the former routes, hand travers left on slopers and crimps with poor feet to join Simskola at its finish.
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Start standing on a good foot ledge at the base of the slab close to the water (this can be gained by downclimbing Blöta Fötter and moving slightly left). Climb straight up the clean slab on good friction with the crux moving through the bulge at mid height. The slab is smooth but angles out a little at the bottom so requires a little care when falling and can feel a little unnerving. DWS grade of S1 due to this. The photos for the topos were taken before this route was cleaned.