Description

Limeri
We consider this as one of the “Big Five” in Leonidio—not necessarily because of its size, but due to its consistently outstanding quality across all grades and angles. On both the far right and far left, the sector offers plenty of vertical lines, while the central section of the wall impresses with steep climbing on tufas, tufa blobs, crimps, huecos, and much more. "Limeri" literally means "hideaway." Back in the day, thieves used this and nearby overhangs as hideouts between their raids. It was one of those sectors that required extensive cleaning by us local climbers to make it safe and enjoyable. Thanks to the vision of Jörg Andreas from Dresden, a once poorly bolted and neglected line was transformed into “Goofy” — now one of Leonidio’s hardest and most sought-after routes for hard movers.

Democracy
Simon has put a tremendous amount of work into this sector. Unfortunately, it hasn’t gained much traction so far. On paper, it could be one of Leonidio’s major sectors but whether it’s due to the long and somewhat uncomfortable approach, the variable rock quality, or Simon’s distinct bolting style, the sector hasn’t received the recognition it might deserve. It features a wide variety of styles and grades. From short, bouldery lines to vertical crimp challenges and steep tufa overhangs. This long stretch of wall has a lot to offer. Many of the routes are still brand new and waiting for motivated climbers to take on the challenge of early ascents. Thanks for the effort Simon

Blue Mountain
This sector stands out as a striking piece of rock with a short approach and a north-facing orientation, making it an ideal option for hot days. Despite its beauty and potential, it remains relatively unknown—most routes have seen only one or two ascents so far. A great alternative to the busier sectors, it's perfect for those seeking solitude and quiet climbing in a scenic setting.

Brazilian Cave
While visually impressive, the climbing doesn’t quite live up to the looks. The main line through the roof is certainly unique but required reinforcement with glue and tape to stabilize sections of crumbly rock. As with many of Leonidio’s true caves, the overall rock quality is a bit subpar. As of 2025, the extension of the roof line remains an open project.

History

Limeri
This sector is part of AOS’s EU-financed bolting initiative. The majority of the lines were established during the original equipping phases in 2014 and 2017, with only a few routes added in the years since. As of now, all routes have been freed, except for "Tucano".

Democracy
This sector is the result of Simon’s dedicated, years-long effort to develop a diverse climbing area. With bolts sponsored by the Municipality of Leonidio, the work began in 2021. Since then, Simon has returned annually to bolt new lines, rebolt and clean existing ones, maintain the approach, and, true to form, persuade fellow climbers to join him in this ongoing adventure.

Blue Mountain
Raphael from Rebolting Swizz began equipping this north-facing sector in 2020, and one additional line was added by me shortly after. In 2023, Benjamin from Austria established another route, bringing the current total to just a handful. Despite its potential, development here has remained limited.

Brazilian Cave
Equipped by Marcos and Caio from Brazil in 2017, this striking cave sector currently holds just two lines. Since then, no further development has taken place.