Kaasavuori offers the highest routes in Kustavi. The shady north wall has its disadvantages and advantages: the routes require a good amount of time to dry after the rain, but in the summer heat it's nice. You are advised to keep the base camp on top of the rock rather than at its base and descend. There's a walking path up on the right side of the crag.


Educate yourself by getting familiar with Kustavi's unique 5-step trad protection grading system, invented by the original topo collection team.

Currently the 27crags mobile app does not display the additional grade information containing the original Finnish grade and the protection grade (hopefully this feature will be added in the future). You can see the full topo information in 27crags web version or from the original topo collection site at

* Teddy bear (pro1): You can get bomb-proof gear wherever you want, the whole route is easily protected.

* Alpine ibex (pro2): Not as obvious as Teddy bear. You have to spot the good places for protection. You may even need some micro-size gear.

* Monkey (pro3): Something suspicious. There may be some bad placements, big runouts or limited visibility to the crack to complicate putting the placements.

* Lizard (pro4): Needs true boldness. Crux moves on the most suspicious placements, route-length lead falls, critical runouts.

* Spider (pro5): Regardless having the most accurate and innovative protection gear in your rack, there is obivous risk of injury. The best protection for a pro5/spider graded route is a full commitment to a successful ascent.


Kaasavuori in Vartsala was already discovered in 2005 on a search trip organized by Juha Suikkala. The development of Pohjavuori in 2012–2013 moved Kustavi's climbing off the main island to Vartsala, so Kaasavuori did not feel so far away either. The routes were done mostly in 2015.