Description

Eurasian Eagle-Owl is living at Hyyppivuori. It's family may have been nesting there longer than any of us climbers have been living. It is a matter of honor to us to leave the crag in peace for the Eurasian Eagle-Owl to nest. That is also demaded by law. Therefore, climbing is prohibited between 15th February and 15th June. But after that, let the climbing season begin.

https://jammi.net/kalliot/hyyppivuori/index.html

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Educate yourself by getting familiar with Kustavi's unique 5-step trad protection grading system, invented by the original jammi.net topo collection team:

* Teddy bear (pro1): You can get bomb-proof gear wherever you want, the whole route is easily protected.

* Alpine ibex (pro2): Not as obvious as Teddy bear. You have to spot the good places for protection. You may even need some micro-size gear.

* Monkey (pro3): Something suspicious. There may be some bad placements, big runouts or limited visibility to the crack to complicate putting the placements.

* Lizard (pro4): Needs true boldness. Crux moves on the most suspicious placements, route-length lead falls, critical runouts.

* Spider (pro5): Regardless having the most accurate and innovative protection gear in your rack, there is obivous risk of injury. The best protection for a pro5/spider graded route is a full commitment to a successful ascent.

https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/varmistettavuus.html

History

Hyyppivuori was originally found by Juha Suikkala in 2004 and most of the routes were developed in same year. There are now almost 40 routes at the crag. The coolest ones are "Sirittäjä", vertical finger crack with a small roof and "Avaruuscowboy", the longest, tallest (12m) and most imposing route which comes in three variations. Most of the routes are mid-difficulty, small and pretty, some of them also quite mental. The delicate slabs at the Medusa sector are especially nice. Hyyppivuori is located only 4 kilometers from Pärkänvuori, the mother crag of trad climbing in Southwest Finland.

The forest in front of the crag was cut in 2017 so the crag gets now more light and the routes hopefully stay longer moss-free.

Routes on Hyyppivuori
1 sport 39 trad 4 Likes
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Juha Suikkala
J. Suikkala
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Pauli Salminen
P. Salminen
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P. Ollila
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Hyyppivuori

Climbing has been limited!

Eurasian Eagle-Owl is living at Hyyppivuori. Therefore, climbing is prohibited between 15th February and 15th June.

Park the cars at the marked spots, do not block access to the field. Do not park in front of the shed!

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General access and climbing instructions for Kustavi climbing:

- Always behave politely - the local people you encounter at the crag may be the landowner.

- No littering.

- No campfires.

- No camping at the climbing crags. This is a preemptive recommendation to avoid access issues due to high amount of climbers visiting the island.

- There are plenty of nice options for accommodation in Kustavi. Check out Visit Kustavi web pages (in finnish):
https://visitkustavi.fi/majoitus/majoitusvaihtoehdot/
https://visitkustavi.fi/majoitus/leirintaalueet/
https://visitkustavi.fi/majoitus/yksityismajoitus/

- When parking the cars, use some common sense and do not block any roads or access to the fields. If the marked parking space is full, find some other.

-Chipping routes is prohibited. However, there may be some loose blocks or flakes, which can be dislodged if considered a security risk.

-Unclimbed lines are free for everyone to establish new routes, if not marked as reserved project. Guideline is to reserve maximum of one project per climber per one crag per one season. After one season the project reservation is released.

-When establishing a new route, the first ascensionist is expected to clean the route thoroughly.

-There are some older routes left unclimbed for many years, gathering moss. Bring your wire brush and get some respect from climbing community by retro-cleaning and climbing the forgotten gems!

https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/kaytannot.html