Tälle kalliolle aurinko ei paista koskaan, ja sateen jälkeen kestää kolme päivää kuivua. Tuuli ei myöskään pääse tänne pusikon keskelle. Hyttysiä kyllä riittää, vieressä oleva suo pitää siitä huolen. Kallio on myös aika matala, joten kiivetä voi boulderina tai köydellä - koska siellä on kuitenkin halkeamia, niin on ihan kiva laittaa piissejäkin. Montaa reittiä kalliolla ei ole eikä kalliota olisi putsattu ilman yhtä Kustavin hienoimmista reiteistä.
Kalliolla asustaa myös huuhkaja, joten keväällä kiipeily on kielletty 15.6. asti. Tämä ei haittaa, koska keväällä kallio ei ole vielä kiipeilykunnossa ja juhannuksenakin reittien juurella voi olla jäätä vielä.
The sun never shines on this crag and after rain it takes three days to dry. The wind also can’t get to this crag because it’s in the middle of a bush. There are armies of mosquitoes, the swamp next to it takes care of it. The crag is also quite low, so you can climb boulder but trad is recommended; there are cracks, so it's nice to use protection. There are not many routes on the crag and the crag would not have been cleaned and established without one of Kustavi's finest routes.
The cliff is also inhabited by an owl, so in the spring climbing is forbidden until 15.6. That is ok, since there may still be ice at the foot of the routes during Midsummer.
---
Educate yourself by getting familiar with Kustavi's unique 5-step trad protection grading system, invented by the original jammi.net topo collection team.
Currently the 27crags mobile app does not display the additional grade information containing the original Finnish grade and the protection grade (hopefully this feature will be added in the future). You can see the full topo information in 27crags web version or from the original topo collection site at https://jammi.net.
* Teddy bear (pro1): You can get bomb-proof gear wherever you want, the whole route is easily protected.
* Alpine ibex (pro2): Not as obvious as Teddy bear. You have to spot the good places for protection. You may even need some micro-size gear.
* Monkey (pro3): Something suspicious. There may be some bad placements, big runouts or limited visibility to the crack to complicate putting the placements.
* Lizard (pro4): Needs true boldness. Crux moves on the most suspicious placements, route-length lead falls, critical runouts.
* Spider (pro5): Regardless having the most accurate and innovative protection gear in your rack, there is obivous risk of injury. The best protection for a pro5/spider graded route is a full commitment to a successful ascent.
https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/varmistettavuus.html
