Description

North-facing crag, used to dry slowly but after the trees being cut from the front, it dries more quickly. There are residents living just next to the crag, so please do not yell or make noise.

https://jammi.net/kalliot/harkakallio/index.html

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Educate yourself by getting familiar with Kustavi's unique 5-step trad protection grading system, invented by the original jammi.net topo collection team:

* Teddy bear (pro1): You can get bomb-proof gear wherever you want, the whole route is easily protected.

* Alpine ibex (pro2): Not as obvious as Teddy bear. You have to spot the good places for protection. You may even need some micro-size gear.

* Monkey (pro3): Something suspicious. There may be some bad placements, big runouts or limited visibility to the crack to complicate putting the placements.

* Lizard (pro4): Needs true boldness. Crux moves on the most suspicious placements, route-length lead falls, critical runouts.

* Spider (pro5): Regardless having the most accurate and innovative protection gear in your rack, there is obivous risk of injury. The best protection for a pro5/spider graded route is a full commitment to a successful ascent.

https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/varmistettavuus.html

History

The Härkäkallio crag in Kahiluoto was originally found by Eljas Honka-Hallila, at his birthday. Härkäkallio offers home for a bunch of vertical routes with natural protection. The routes usually start from soft moss tussocks and need dexterous fingers during the short but spicy lenghts. Despit the crag's name (the "bull crag"), the bull is not foraging at this crag. Instead, you may see the bull with it's indulgent-eyed harem at Kahiluoto's Uhrikallio, which is only two kilometers away from Härkäkallio. Kahiluoto is a completely bolt-free island. The Kahiluoto bridge was completed in 2006, replacing the old, 1972-built Pinoperä cable ferry.

Härkäkallio

The area is access sensitive!

There is summer cottage very near. Please behaviour nice.

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General access and climbing instructions for Kustavi climbing:

- Always behave politely - the local people you encounter at the crag may be the landowner.

- No littering.

- No campfires.

- No camping at the climbing crags. This is a preemptive recommendation to avoid access issues due to high amount of climbers visiting the island.

- There are plenty of nice options for accommodation in Kustavi. Check out Visit Kustavi web pages (in finnish):
https://visitkustavi.fi/majoitus/majoitusvaihtoehdot/
https://visitkustavi.fi/majoitus/leirintaalueet/
https://visitkustavi.fi/majoitus/yksityismajoitus/

- When parking the cars, use some common sense and do not block any roads or access to the fields. If the marked parking space is full, find some other.

-Chipping routes is prohibited. However, there may be some loose blocks or flakes, which can be dislodged if considered a security risk.

-Unclimbed lines are free for everyone to establish new routes, if not marked as reserved project. Guideline is to reserve maximum of one project per climber per one crag per one season. After one season the project reservation is released.

-When establishing a new route, the first ascensionist is expected to clean the route thoroughly.

-There are some older routes left unclimbed for many years, gathering moss. Bring your wire brush and get some respect from climbing community by retro-cleaning and climbing the forgotten gems!

https://jammi.net/kalliot/tietovakka/kaytannot.html