🧗♂️Cal Nica
This conglomerate crag is perfect for lower grade climbers. The grades are mostly in the IVs and Vs and the bolting is exceptionally friendly. Orientation: Southeast.
🚗Approach: Park approximately 6.5km north of La Pobla de Segur at the Font de La Figuereta picnic area (P2). 🚶♂️From here walk north along a surfaced footpath next to the road for about 350m then, where the main road enters a tunnel, fork right onto a section of the ‘old’ road, running close to the river as it passes through a particularly narrow section of the gorge (El Barranc de L’Infern). Continue along the old road for approximately 950m to where a trail leads up a short, steep gully on the left. Scramble up the gully, passing a couple of bolted climbs on the left, then continue on a path leading horizontally rightwards for 30m to a spacious gearing up area below the sector (15 minutes from P2).
🧗♂️La Pedrera
Description: A justifiably famous sector and one of the very best in Catalunya for climbers looking for long, sustained 7th grade routes. The approach is a little bit unusual in that it involves Tyrolean techniques to cross the river, but the zip-wire is well maintained and, provided you have the correct equipment (pulley, gloves, etc.) it shouldn’t be a problem. Orientation: West. Note: because of the high wall directly opposite the sector on the opposite side of the river, in mid-winter the sun barely reaches the wall, even in the afternoon. Most people choose to visit this sector in warm weather and climb from morning until mid-afternoon.
🚗Approach: Park approximately 6.5km north of La Pobla de Segur at the Font de La Figuereta picnic area (P2). 🚶♂️From here walk north along a surfaced footpath next to the road for about 350m then, where the main road enters a tunnel, fork right onto a section of the ‘old’ road, running close to the river as it passes through a particularly narrow section of the gorge (El Barranc de L’Infern). Continue along the old road for approximately 1250m (passing sector Cal Nica on the left) to reach a steel wire cable stretching across the river, almost opposite the right-hand end of the sector, which is located on the far bank. Now things get interesting! Traverse the cable using Tyrolean techniques, which require a harness, a purpose-made pulley system, leather gloves, and the necessary know-how. If in doubt, go somewhere else! Once across the river walk leftwards (north) on an obvious path to the base of the sector (25-30 minutes from P2, though this depends on your ‘Tyrolean’ skills). 🙋🏽♀️ during the summer months one will invariably encounter a number of vehicles parked directly opposite the cliff on the supposedly ‘no access’ stretch of the old road.
Closer examination will reveal that most display a parking consent form issued by one of the local river-adventure sports companies (who also maintain the Tyrolean cables). Anyone not displaying this consent form carries the risk of being fined by the police during one of their frequent patrols.
🧗♂️La Terrasseta
Description: This sector lies directly opposite La Pedrera and though the number of routes is not high (just 10) the quality of them is exceptional. It also has the advantage of not requiring Tyrolean techniques to reach it! Orientation: East — a perfect place for summer afternoons.
🚗 Park approximately 6.5km north of La Pobla de Segur at the Font de La Figuereta picnic area (P2).
🚶♂️From here walk north along a surfaced footpath next to the road for about 350m then, where the main road enters a tunnel, fork right onto a section of the ‘old’ road, running close to the river as it passes through a particularly narrow section of the gorge (El Barranc de L’Infern). Continue along the old road for approximately 1250m (passing sector Cal Nica on the left) to reach a steel wire cable stretching across the river — the Tyrolean cable access to sector La Pedrera. Continue for a further 200m (after the start of the Tyrolean cable) then scramble up a short, steep bank to the base of the sector (20 minutes from the P2).
