Description

Capuralinu is a fascinating crag towering up in clear sight when you drive from Bastia to Corti along the T20.
The cliff offers good climbing in a very beautiful environment.

Capuralinu is one the first crags of Corsica. The climbing style you find here will reflect that, mostly around the vertical, hyper technical and fingery moves on grey limestone. Climbing like it was done in the 1980's, no tricks, just technique and fingerpower.

A Torra: The first sector you'll pass on the approach. It is situated on the shoulder and has an old watch-tower on top of it. Even though the routes are short, mostly around the 10m mark, they are interesting for those liking slight overhangs and crimps.

Bulinu: The left face when looking at the crag (right from the approach). Offers good routes in the 5th and 6th grades. You will find a lot of historic pieces here; pitons, cordelettes, ... But in general the protection has been renewed (2005) and is good. We recommend trying some of the 2nd pitches as they are great.

Salé-sucré: On the right bottom of Bulinu, home to 5 nice routes from 6a+ to 6c.

Aquaplaning: sector with 3 routes in the typical style of the Fratericinu face.

Névralgie: Very nice sector on Fratericinu with rich history. You'll find Corsica's first 7a and 7b here! Most enjoyed for the climber looking for 6b-7b routes.

Pipioli: The right side hosts a few well bolted powerful routes. Here "Fais pas chier Zorro" and "La valse du taureau" are the must-do classics.
On the left side few multi pitches in adventurous style. They used to be bolted on 8mm bolts back in the 80's by Pierre Pietri and Pierrot Griscelli. The routes have been rebolted but remain for those with the ability to keep the head cool. If you're looking to step back in time, you should go climb here.

Fratericinu Multi Pitch:
One of the rare places with limestone mp on Corsica. The routes are good and definitely recommendable!

History

Very rich history here. It is one of the first crags of Corsica with development started in the 1980's.
On the sector "Névralgie" you will find the first 7a and 7b of the island, go try them!

The crag was rebolted in 2005

Capuralinu

Climbing has been limited!

IMPORTANT: No climbing allowed on the Fratericinu face (e.g. "Aquaplaning", "Névralgie", "Pipioli" and "Fratericinu") between 15/01 - 30/06. Bolting on this face is also forbidden. This for nesting of the peregrine falcons.

Capuralinu towers West of road T20 in between Ponte Leccia and Corti, 13km North of Corti. The crag is clearly visible when driving South.

Arrival by car: Take a turn to the West in the village of Caporalino, there is a sign for the crag. Park as indicated.

Approach on foot: Go through the gate and close it behind you. Follow the path right and up until it crosses the railroad, take care. Again, go through a gate and close it behind you. Keep following the path and you will arrive at sector "A Torra" (12min), which will be visible on the approach.
From here, for sector "Bulinu"(15min), take the right path, for "Aquaplaning", "Névralgie", "Pipioli" and"Fratericinu", follow the path to the right. (15min)