Burbage North is undoubtedly the most popular of the Burbage Valley crags, probably due in equal measures to its ease of access and friendly character. Here there are dozens of excellent lower and middle-grade climbs, making it a firm favourite with both novice leaders and competent soloists alike, and though while generally not quite as long as those on nearby Stanage, the routes here are full of interest.
At the opposite end of the scale, the crag hosts some truly desperate and nerve-shredding climbs, as well as a fantastic selection of boulder problems, with pride of place going to the world-famous 'Voyager' (8b / 8b+ sit) on the Sphinx block.
Conditions and aspect: The predominantly southwest orientation of the crag means plenty of sun (if it’s shining!) from midday onwards, and the edge’s popularity ensures generally very clean, sound rock, with only the poorer routes staying dirty.
Note: although this group of topos is named ‘Burbage North Routes’, we have also featured a number of the more notable boulder problems, especially those which lie on the edge itself, rather than in the boulder fields below. More detailed coverage of Burbage North's bouldering can be found elsewhere on 27Crags.
