Description

An der Neische (= An der neuen Illerschleife) is a band of compact sandstone not far from the original Illerschleife bouldering sector. The climbs are next to the river in a small, quiet forest.

Unlike most areas in the Allgäu, several of the boulders here top out - sometimes with surprisingly hart mantles, such as Spears of Deliverance. Others end on a good hold in the middle of the wall, if the top section of rock isn't solid enough, or on a no-hands rest. While the area is not huge, some of the boulders follow obvious lines with interesting holds and moves on very good rock. Standout problems are for example Blonde on Blonde, Burma Haze or die hängenden Gärten.

The rock band follows an upwards sloping hill, so the landings can sometimes be a bit tricky, but they are generally relatively even. For most problems one crashpad is sufficient, some might need two.

History

All the climbs were discovered and climbed during the summer of 2020.

An der Neische

The area is access sensitive!

1) Special rules at this crag
The area is somewhat access sensitive because it is on private land. The farmer who owns the land doesn't know of the bouldering here. It is therefore imperative to NEVER walk directly over the field adjacent to the forest and to NEVER block any farming access roads. Keep a low profile, don't make too much noise, no fire or littering.

2) How to drive to the crag and parking instructions
From Kempten, drive on the B19 and exit at Martinszell. Drive through the village, over the bridge, through Häusern and then park at the same parking as Illerschleife.

3) How to reach the sectors on foot
The sector can be reached from both sides, but it is much easier to walk down the hill away from Häusern and turn right exactly at the edge of the forest. Follow down to the river, turn right into the little forest and the rocks are to your right. If there are animals on the field, descend in the forest. The upper edge of the cliff is maybe 20 meters into the forest from the street near the edge of the field, and you can walk down along the cliff.