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At the crags around the castle you can climb all year round at any weather. The south facing routes underneath the castle are covered by a big roof and stay dry forever. As long as there is no condensation of course.
At the opposite Sector "Schneiderloch" the routes stay dry as well but the pockets can be wet for a long time after long rain periods. The other sectors are usual franconian crags. Due to the overhangs the stay dry while short rains but can stuck wet for a long time because the are not that exposed to the wind.
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At sector "Schneiderloch" there is the highest concentraion of hard routes in the Frankenjura. One of the hardest routes can be found here. The routes are quite long and sustaining. At "Hardcore Wändchen" you get hard routes up to 9a, as well, but the routes are much shorter and more powerful.
"Neumühle" offers good steep endurance climbing on quite small pockets in nice ambience.
Sector "Burg Rabenstein" becomes more vertical and technical. The structures are predominated by crimps and slopers.
"Sandkasten" is as it's called quite sandy. The routes are worth a visit though.
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There is no sector which is suitable for kids as long as the can't walk and play on their own.
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Go down the creek to Oberailsfeld. There's a good brewery with good food and beer. Next Camping is in Waischenfeld.
💎 Goodies
Soft:
- Bayreuther Quergang
Medium:
- Nürnberger Weg
- Inshallah
Hard:
- Witchcraft
- Sodom
- Heuber Route
- Microchips Direkt
Extreme:
- Burn for you
- Corona
- Unplugged
