Oscar Wandery

Don’t get tricked by the drawing to think the route peels of leftward after L1. It does not. It most certainly does not. Guidebook confirmes it continues straight along the crack and tufa features. 7c to L1 according to guidebook. I buy it.

Wow

Brilliant, absolute banger! Spectacular start. Sensitive bouldery crux. Consistant and gratifying final stretch. Light overhung for the first clips, into vertical. Recommend giving this a go if you find yourself in Balbicho.

Haters will say (i.e. Vince) that I didn’t send since I forgot a draw to put in the anchor and that hanging around for a while at the top searching for my missing draw, only to down-climb, then up-climb, and then re-down-climb doesn’t change the fact that no chains were clipped that day… Others will say — and most scholars agree that the weight of evidence resides in this view — up yours Vince.