Konsta Kukkonen

Old nemesis defeated. Might be even 6C+ or completely crappy beta. Practically the same move as in vol 3 with even more disadvantaged left hand gaston to reach the right hand sider crimp.

First go, but can't remember if I tried this one last time and the top out was familiar from the other problems. Super nice start moves! Without eliminates this is the best problem on this rock.

Felt about the same grade as Omituinen hiippari

Sieväsen betalla. With weak fingers the first move is harder than 6C+

Sweaty hands on shallow pockets. How is it suddenly so warm?!

Nice rock quality

Melkoinen työmaa.

Probably 3+ in Kustavi, but nice nonetheless.

Straight up using the crack. Nice for finger jam practice

Joonaksen kuvaamalla tavalla. Such a smooth thin hands crack. I wish this was on a trad route

Without the shelf of Potentiaalinen seiska.

Piti kiivetä uusiks, kun meni ensin tän ja Vegansin välistä. Ei menny alku varmaan vieläkään tarpeeks vasemmalta, mut tikataan nyt.

Great one! Good moves, quality rock, and committing topout.

At least the weather is nice

Felt easy as a warm up, but then everything else felt hard.

Wet

Shares topout with vasarahai, but crux is lower so flash.

Nice traverse! :)

1,5 stars for the nice jams - 0,5 stars for the unnecessary sit start. Escaped to the topout of Unnamed seacreature. Could try the correct one with natural pro or at least dry holds.

Valaistu is not in the prime condition yet. Tense climbing on moist holds.

Unique indeed. Especially the sit start :)

Fun and, in Pirkanmaa standards, quite unusual climbing. Committing last move at least with my beta.

Bit too short

Not much easier than the eliminate. I think I used the arete once and the hold was not as good as I'd wanted.

Kevään eka Suomi-tikki! :)

Elegant walrus top out

Flash train goes choo choo!

Nice in some twisted way

Comfiest set of holds

With a hand jam :)

Two stars for great moves and one more for unexpected send!

Last time no chance. Now felt surprisingly easy

Very good! Resembles Epookki at Palomäki. No chance last year, now manageable with great friction. Still a solid 7A+ IMO, although this is my anti-style. Hieno nimi myös! :)

Last time couldn't manage the sit start. I'm pretty sure at least two holds have broken after the FA, since the first move is not a 6A. Started leaning right from the broken jug with high left heel and locked off to the slopy jug. After that reached to the good right hand sloper jug (skipped most of the holds of Hirvonen"). Then reached left into a crack and topped out from left of it. This is cool variation to the original line topping straight up, even if it's an eliminate. Grade maybe 6C

There are such great kneebars, but then all the nice holds are out of reach and the unsatisfactory (video) beta was much easier. Great disappointment :(

First go, but had checked the topout for "Erehdys". nice holds

Nice jams, couple of delicate moves and then dynamic move to ledge. Versatile route, but the difficulty is consentrated to the move to get to the arete

Awesome set of holds, and climbs well too! Misread the sequence on the first go. Down climbed the big spruce on the right to get down.

Static, as I didn't dare to dyno. Plan the descent carefully before topping out, if you're here without a rope and harness. I ended up down climbing the spruce.

Tough mantle

Best slab traverse I have climbed!

Awesome, fun and exciting! Had to use fists at the top

No kidding, the rock quality doesn't lose to Presten at all 👌

Active rest day pt. 3

Active rest day pt. 2

Awesome and not too stressful with some jam technique. The face is found by walking left and downhill from the highest point of the path if you come from the marked approach path.

Second session. Might be even 6A?

Maybe a bit harder than Koronamasennus. Dunno how the original line was supposed to climb, but after the first move (which is same as for Koronamasennus) I went to right to a sloper and topped out using the slopers. That way this is more independent line.

Since the original starting holds are gone I started from the corner left hand on the crimp in the left side of arete, right hand on good edge in the right side of arete. It would be possible to start both hands on the right side, but these two holds are the most logical ones.

Quite fun :)

"On tämä saatana työmaa." Took way too many tries from the left using the siders before figuring out that the intermediate shelf was a jug from the right. I might have even become frustrated for a bit, but luckily no-one but mosquitos were there to witness it.

Maybe not the place to come with one pad and no spotters... Figuring out how to sit start from muddy ground using approach shoes as sit start pad took the most time. Topping was exciting with that one actual pad, but fortunately it was well placed.

Tried to start from the undercling and the poor crimp. First go after starting like Emil described. The left hand starting hold (if correct) is not an undercling but a juggy side pull

Rest day tick with approach shoes

With approach shoes

The mantle took some effort last year in approach shoes. Now easily with a finger lock

First I fought with Otto's beta, but after watching the beta video it went surprisingly easily. So maybe closer to 7A? Nice highball with not too scary topout

Almost gave up already, but belaying for 8a+ reinvigorated my confidense. Used Piano match at the second crux

Repullinen sessioita! Ylivoimaisesti pisin boulderprojekti ja vaikein kiipeämäni boulderreitti. Poikkari otettu haltuun nopeasti jo kaksi vuotta sitten. Viime vuonna kaksi sessiota, ilman minkäänlaista edistystä. Tämän vuoden eka ulkosessio P:n kanssa tammikuussa. Hieno seikkailu. Liukas lähis, -5 celsiusta, kivi kuivaa ja täydellinen kitka, joskin sormet olivat tunnottomat jo kruksiin tultaessa. P tarjoili J:n huukkibetan, jonka olin jo aiemmin hylännyt, mutta sillä saikin lyhennettyä kruksia yhdellä muuvilla. Toinen ja kolmas sessio huhtikuussa. Kriittinen mikrobeta huukkiin, jolla kenkä solahtaa slottiin. Hylkäsin myös välikrimpit, jotka veivät liikettä väärään suuntaan. Kruksimuuvi ensimmäistä kertaa erillisenä. Neljäs sessio ennen kesäkuun helteitä, kitkat edelleen riittävän hyvät, mutta joko huukista loppui puhti, oikea olkapää väsähti kesken muuvin tai unohdin hengittää. Ei sendiä. Vieläkään. Tänään Taikuri laittoi viestiä. Sendiin on vähän lämmintä, mutta ehkä on hyvä muistella muuveja ennen syksyn kitkakelejä(, joita harvoin edes tulee). Vielä yksi kriittinen pala, joka oli vasemmalla kädellä vetäminen ennen sloupperista haikailua. En siis ollutkaan liian heikko huukeissa! Kiitokset Taikurille & Taikurin housuille sekä O:lle ja M:lle uskon valamisesta tämän päiväiseen prosessiin. Viimeiseenkin muuviin sai keskittyä.

Ready made beta by Samu. Short but good moves. Assumed this doesn't climb to the top?

Sharp holds, but somehow I liked it. The solution for me was to quit technical bs and just go for it. Topped out.

Nice power problem. Quite exciting with one pad.

Nice traverse. Come down by going left from the pine at the top. Someone else had also tried to come down from the sketchy mossy slab in the back corner of the rock :D

Nice moves, but the landing is not too welcoming and the spotters may feel a bit claustrophobic because of the spruces around.

A bit mossy, but every critical hold was clean.

Great traverse with some powerful moves. Also good rock quality with enough friction even in the summer temps.

Project of the day. First 10+ tries with arrogant ape beta, then paid a bit of attention. Maybe it's the heat wave, but didn't feel like 6A even with the crack.

Very good! If only it was taller

Nice moves, especially the mantle!

Nice problem and logical sit start. Not really sure about the grade. Either soft or I have peaked after having unproductive sessions with Aina voi luovuttaa and Repullinen aamuja last week (with better conditions for both).

Fits my style perfectly

Sit start. Dunno if the right hand starting hold was strange enough

A bit unsatisfactory beta, but the holds and the rock is awesome! If only there were some harder lines as well.

2,5 stars! Little minus for the moving rocks at the top. Norway vibes. Highly recommended!

Lovely name :D Started from Mäkikotka ledge and topped out at the same place as I didn't find the right topo image and was too impatient to read the description properly. Wrong but I'll be damned if I have to go through that again! Great this way too! Nice for a traverse

In comparison to other 6As of Sienikivi

Nice one!

Direct is also fun :)

Tähän on tultu... 6A:n redpointia. Todella epäselvä linja. Yhdessä topokuvassa näyttää menevän kantista, mutta toisessa siitä meneekin kaksi muuta reittiä... Kiivettiin huonojen vuosien toppi

Stiff for the grade

First go, but had climbed something else with all the holds

First go today, but I think I've hanged on the crimp before the route had been climbed

Didn't manage the ss this time either, so lets take this one then.

On the corner right from Arvet on ikuisia. Bit of a silly problem climbing wise, but fun. Used heel hook higher than the starting hand holds. Name comes from that.

I usually do not like hook traverses, but this one was very nice!

Low fitness, or just a sand bag

Didn't feel like 7A. I don't know what exactly was eliminated.

Good moves, but the straight one is a more pleasant line. I think the crux of this one is a bit easier so the grade is about the same.

Good few moves, and then a painful crystal top

Few sharp crystals, but otherwise good rock. Did it with and without the ledge on the left. 6Bish

Nice! 10+ tries because of tricky sequence, especially for the feet. It's not done before it's done!

Ok easy slab :)

This one is quality line as well. The rock quality though... Some additional crumbling may occur especially at your feet. Hopefully not so much from the upper holds.

Had to go with small moves. Sharp!

Nice, and not too easy as a warm up!

Gaston from the pocket, not under, gaston. Much easier

Good lines here. The eliminate on this one is quite logical, although I would maybe have kept the arete at the start. Felt a bit like indoor climbing, and not least because of the small dyno.

In some way feels stupid to give two stars for this type of line, but it's much more creative than the straight variation and uses all the features of the wall, so I have no choice. Great moves too!

This one really took some effort! Would be three stars if the stone quality was better. I managed to crumble the crux hold a bit while trying to top it out. Luckily couldn't make it that go, so had to also climb it with the smaller and more rounded edge. I don't think it affects the grade much though.

👌 If the rock quality was better, I would give three stars

Both of these arete problems were great! Somehow I associate this one with Monsteri in Lukonlahti, and that one is much stiffer.

Exciting end! PasiA is now completed on my behalf :)

Yes! Thanks to Tommi for showing it's possible. Very similar to the original, but obviously a mirror image. This time felt like 7A+.

Decent for a traverse, but I dislike that the difficulty comes from claustrofobic battle between keeping low enough to hold the slopers and high enough to avoid dabbing the pads with your ass.

Thought I was too weak, but it was just bad beta. Heel hook FTW! Still a solid 7A in my opinion.

Melkosta...

Not nearly as hard as hahmotusvaikeus

This was surprisingly fun, if the left starting hold of Summerin soittaja is included!

Nice moves. Felt harder than the 6C+

Didn't feel harder than hahmotusvaikeus.

Not sure what the elegant beta is supposed to be. I used heelhook as couldn't do it with feet on... nothing. Didn't feel elegant with the hook either.

Tough one!

Good few moves, but sharp!

Good moves. Sharp rock

Clearly harder than the short version. Crux was at the 6B part for me

Semi-static

Felt almost as hard as lähetystyö

Sharp!

Good move, but so forced its hard to treat as an independent route from the others around it

Probably one of those problems where fitting into a very specific box makes things easier. Like Noora said, might be even easier than the 6B+, which I couldn't manage this time. Cool first move and problem nonetheless.

Super nice! Power and technique in equal proportions. Beta acknowledgements: Starting sequence by Pauli, sequence after traverse by Emil :)

Not my style, but felt harder than 7A+. Note to self: pinching is way easier if I use the thumb.. Edit on 1.5.2023. I probably didn't use the easiest beta available. Now I think 7A+ is probably more correct. Although the amount of crash pads and rocks underneath is probably also a factor here. If you liked this one, the right variation is also very nice!

Finding the starting footholds is the most difficult part. Very nice lock-off!

Hard first move..

Hard first move

Hard first move. Send on the first go that I stuck the cut loose move. A bit unsatisfyingly used the jug on the lip. Still felt like a solid 7A+

Great small problem! Cool beta from Tuomas. Proper deadpoint!

With a small dab to a pad on the rock. Felt hard for the grade.

Easier than Villisika

Almost three stars, but got to save that for Karju!

Top out from the middle :D

Was supposed to climb Jack instead of this. It was a fight, but luckily it went on the second last go (the humor go). There are lots of tasty raspberries around the rock as a bonus!

I thought I had climbed Vähäsen Muhkumpi and thought it soft, but it turned that route climbs more to the right. If I got it correctly, this one is the bulge type of feature running from bottom to top, and if the jugs from Ensimmäinen pari uunista are excluded, the grade is probably accurate.

Surprisingly fun!

Good few moves with nice holds. If only these more overhanging problems were a bit longer

With one pad the crux was to get butt off the ground. Stand start probably more worthy

Kind of a first move wonder, but still good climbing

Feather bag of all times

The missing flake affects this route as well. Started from high "under" / pinch for left and sloper at the same height in the arete. First move with right hand to the jug in the arete. The birch was real annoyance at the topout.

Sit start is definitely not a 6A+. Same for the "Lyhyt mutta ytimekäs", which is even harder as a sit start

Good off-width technique training! Chicken wings, body and knee jams and a critical head jam :D Kustavi 6+.

Koskela pinch was the key to success, again :)

Had to crimp from some knobs so hard I was afraid my nails might come off. If you're after good quality rock, go somewhere else. Good moves though!

Short but packed with techniques and hold types. Very nice!

Great fun!

Felt easier than the one next to it

Super!

Maybe didn't exclude all the eliminates. Who knows? Highstep from small right hand crimp and a left hand undercling was the crux in my beta. Star for that move. -* for the obscurity. Still fun to climb.

Reachy

Super nice moves!

Great name for a problem :D

Hard first move. Had to layback and crimp properly

Used pretty much the same beta as Pauli. Easier than Side Boss at Hyttyskivi

I like it!

Nice holds!

Some of the holds were wet and the landing with three pads not too welcoming. Felt more like 6C :D

Nice warmup with big jugs

Feels so good to top this one!

Static

Highstep

Wow! Sometimes the one last go is worth it. Turned out I have some foot technique after all :)

Flash try ended before the first move as I hit my glasses to the wall while turning head. :( Second go!

Delicate feet

My style. I've got no benchmark for the grade, but feels like 7B/7B+

As red as a redpoint gets. Wet holds in the middle made it more difficult

Same start as Pässi, top via the left hand jug and arete

Nice and high. I'm not totally sure if the amount of tree dab at the start was acceptable 😅

Did the start as in Antti Kanaalista, but that's not the crux and the moves are even better like that! 2,5 stars

Hard sit start

Felt too easy for a six. If you know how to jam you get bomber "placements" all the way

Maybe minor dabs to the side wall while climbing, but no intentional use

Nice balancy climbing. I'm glad the crux is not too high up. Still had to jump down once before committing to the top out

Nice little power problem. Sorry for leaving the tick marks. We forgot to brush them off in the dark 😬

Beta sensitive

First go

Second go. Went up at the highest point of the face. Seemed the most logical way

Second ascent?

Good moves in the middle