Joonas Rautakoski

Maybe the best route i have climbed, steep and continuous climbing from bottom to top, really long pitches. Slipped from wet moss on leading the first pitch and had to rest on "skyggediedret" when seconding/cleaning. We split the third pitch and i got the Halvmånerisset itself, which was excellent: 20m of vertical pure handcrack-cruising.

''Päiväreissu norjaan''. Ajettiin Kokkolasta reitin juurelle (n.16h), nukuttuun muutama tunti ja lähettiin approachille n. 2.00 yöllä. Reitin juurella oltiin sopivasti aamun sarastaessa. Olosuhteet varsinkin reitin loppupuolella oli melko eksoottiset alkuviikon myrskyn (räntää 50mm/24h+25m/s tuuli) vuoksi. Topissa klo 14, alas käveltiin ''Normaalireittiä'' töppyrän toiselle puolelle. Autolta autolle: 6h+6h+4h. Kiikkujen jälkeen nukuttiin jokunen tunti ja ajettiin kotiin. Tehokas reissu=)

Starts straight from the road. Simul-climbed first pitch, then 2 pitches of easy ice. Car-car 3h (5min+2h+1h+5min)

200m, 4 pitches, 3 person team. Lots of problems with ropes icing up while climbing and rappelling, -20C+rining water+old ropes= not a good combination. Car-car time 12,5h (1h+6h+5h+0,5h)

3 pitches, 3 person team. Had to climb-rescue our rappeling ropes once (froze to tree while pulling down!!), which took almost 2h with all the hazzle. Car-car time 9h (0,5h+4h+4h+0,5h)

Our masterplan was to climb Greven and Grevinnan on season starter day. Started Grevinnan just when it was time to put headlamps on. Avoided the steep end part with ramp on the right, walked to and rappeled from greven. Car-car time for both Greven and grevinnan 13h.

Ice season starter. Made 4 pitches and rest we simulclimbed. Ascent+descent time just under 4 hours.

Last days "roadside ice on the way to oslo" plans chanced to "roadside wet tool" because of bermuda shorts weather... crappy route, but better than "pub on the way" alternative=D

Propably nicer in early season when theres less ice and snow and the line goes "deeper" in the groove

Led all pitches (8). Dark and snowstorm started at pitch 6, didn't found descend route in storm (far left on NW-side of vakkotavare), so had to rappel the whole route. Car-car time 19 hours=)

Backed off from snow field (so not done with this one yet) after 3 pitches of nice and interesting, but too slow mixed climbing... sun had already made its tricks on ice (thin slush, detached from rock behind), so had to find alternative rock/mixed route to start pitches (on the right side of "ice" line).

Went for this one, but had to bail after first pitch (on routenro 3) cos second pitch wasn't formed yet... 5m wide rock open river in the middle, water flowing under thin ice on the sides. Worst new years ice conditions in years...

Really nice long fall... Last year had to back off after first pitch cos i "plumed" up to balls in snow hidden waterbowl

Bailed after 2 pitches cos i fell in snow hidden waterbowl and got soaking wet up to balls!

Spotted in dark, turned out easier (and longer) than looked

So nice that climbed it again (first time exactly year ago 5.1.10)... maybe disastrous avalanche conditions affected the choice a bit

Lsvjkilta-Jatkokurssi

Lsvjkilta-Jatkokurssi

Lsvjkilta-Jäätikkökurssi 22

Lsvjkilta-Jäätikkökurssi 22

Lsvjkilta-Jäätikkökurssi 22