Johannes Pielmeier

First 8b! A crucial hold (knob/bulge) in the first crux broke off this year, so I had to find another beta going through the slopers and skipping a clip. Its a really cool boulder problem and definitely much harder than before, so I don't think it's a soft 8b anymore. North/West wind and low humidity was crucial for the send.

Name: Blackstar 8a+ First Ascent: Jan Krauß (according to the newest guidebook) After 13 tries I finally sent this amazing line! It was my first "real" project, where I really had to find and refine the beta. On the second day on the project I broke off a good crimp in the top part after the crux moves. It doesn't make the route harder in my opinion. The route is quite powerful with many gastons and has great friction, since almost nobody has climbed it before. It has been a project for many years.

Slopers and crimps, just like in Scandinavia :-)

Wet top!

Short. Really nice jams and moves. Always dry!

Cool route! Quite easy in the start. Crux is in the top at the last 3 clips and a big dynamic "slap" move to a left hand sloper for the top.

Used the right hand sloper gaston and left sloper sidepull.

Super nice route, first onsight of the grade 🙂

2nd GO, tricky start.

Desperate top 😄