Jason Kester

Classic of the forest. Got high up on my first session 5 years ago, and hadn't been able to get back since, despite plenty of sessions. Found a different heel beta today that made the difference.

Giant throw to a terrible sloper.

Harder than Carnage. 7a.

Just a few extra moves, but wow what a difference. Fell off the last move a dozen times over several trips

Years of effort to get that toe to stick this one time.

A couple strong moves, with a sneaky toe to get off the ground.

Got the jump first day from the higher start holds, then spent 2 more sessions to move the start down to the lower ones.

Eliminate and low, but fun.

Burly. Skipped the mono crimp and went out left to the sloper.

Felt impossible while working it, until I found the foot beta. Then it felt like a blue problem.

So much fun. Into my Top 5 7a's list.

0

0

Quite straightforward if you're in to jumping.

Easy jump version. Gotta come back to work on the much cooler static method.

I used a higher right foot, which resulted in more of a deadpoint than the full feet-swinging dyno that all the videos show.

Lots of options, all equally impossible. Nice.

0

Crimpy static version, which seems much nicer than lanking it out on the jump.

Seemed like is should be easy, but took 5 years to actually happen

So many tries over so many visits. Nice to have it go.

I'm starting to run out of 7b jump problems to pad out my score with. The move feels quite nice once you figure it out.

One move. An easy one at that, once you know what to do.

Fits me much better than it does short folk.

One little extra sloper makes a big difference.

0

Nonexistant slopers made usable with footlocks. Cool! Did the right exit, which feels 7B. Straight up is probably 7B+.

Took a lot of work, but felt quite easy when it finally went. Fun line.

Crux is grabbing the start holds from the sit and establishing. It's kinda over once your butt is off th ground.

Kinda one move

Suits me much better than Carnage (which I still can't do). Powerful finish though.

Another one that I've been playing on for years without much success. Not too hard in the end.

Spooky mantle. Wouldn't be fun if that hand didn't stick.

Overshot the slap on the onsight go.

Almost gave up before finding the right sequence. Really cool when it works.

Scary landing, sketchy moves. Fun though.

Maybe I'm just getting better at this whole rock climbing thing, but this sure felt easy. Fun though, and scary!

Boy, that was hard. I used silly beta that added a grade or two. Fun though.

Lots of jumping and lots of skin spent over lots of days on this one. Happy.

Been trying this for years. Felt nice to have it go so smoothly.

Took a long time to learn how to toehook. Then it went in a few goes. Helps a lot being tall, beyond just fitting onto the problem.

Reachy. But then I'm reachy, so it all works out. Nice swimming pool mantle.

Shouldn't have fallen off on the onsight.

Fits me nicely

Looks like you're in for a bunch of out of control slapping, but I ended up doing it all static.

Quartz patina sloper action! No idea how that thing held enough weight to move off of.

Delicate. Dusted off the top slopers at least once before sending. Bring a brush next time!

0

0

My new favourite problem in the world. Sloper squeezing good times.

0

Cool position

Accidentally watched a youtube video and robbed myself of the onsight. Fun problem, opening an elevator made out of sloper.

Precarious, small holds.

Just my style.

Jump season, season two

0

0

With the fun sit start.

Never felt like it would work until it did.

Cool sloper exit

0

Fun, but too many eliminates crammed into one place.

Used the short person beta

Ow.

Tall

Felt quite a bit easier than Froggy Dick.

Nice and technical

0

0

Not sure why this is harder than (or a separate problem to) Lapin ou Canard. It's the way I would have done that problem.

Tall guy beta: Establish on the small foothold, then reach up to the lip. I feel like I missed some nice climbing.

Botched the easy topout on the flash. Bummer.

Evidently it's 7B dyno season for me. This makes four in two months.

0

Seems a bit easier for the tall.

(Left start). The standing start is much nicer. Sitting just adds a couple less nice moves.

0

Nice when it finally works. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlFZLSsClrU

Depart static & compressed. Not sure if this is the correct static start but it's a really cool move.

Big throw, followed by more big throw. Didn't seem like it was going to work.

So nice. Prettiest slab/arete just begging to be climbed.

Took lots of attempts over lots of visits, yet somehow still felt soft.

Pretty boulder. Being tall helps with the thumb press.

0

Stretchy tall person version (which feels much easier than 7b)

0

Stupid jump start version.

Giggletastic

Nice to pull hard on something again.

0

0

Crazy soft, or mislabeled in the guide

0

0

0

0

Nice!

So nice!

(La Vin Rouge on bleau.info)

0

Mantle of the century. Nice.

80 degrees with big slopers baking in the sun. Evidently this is my style.

Short and to the point.

Lots of options, all equally impossible. Used the right arete, thus turning the olive into popeye

So nice. Sharp crimps and a good spooky mantle.

0

0

Long term project. So nice!

0

0

Aw yeah. That was fun!

Kinda dorky. Mostly an excuse to dangle one-handed from the lip. Gets some points for the full-on swimming pool mantle.

So nice... Did both the sit start and the long version from Orange 6. Same difficulty for each but the long one lets you swing your feet twice!

Involves a palm sloper, two finger half-pad edge, and shallow pinky jam all at once on a single hand. I'd call that technical.

0

0

0

Crimping up a skating rink

Compression

0

I count 3 separate exits you could do for this problem. All seem equally hard.

0

Was supposed to be a rest day. Did 10 orange circuit problems, then found this.

Not slopey enough! Must make that final sloper more slopier!

Well that was unexpected. Just my style, long reaches between fun slopers.

It was 75 degrees and full afternoon sunshine on the top slopers, so I'll happily take the higher grade.

Pretty arete with a spooky mantle. Yikes!

0

Just a few tries

Balancy

Scootchin' good times

Satisfying

Climbed this back when it was V5. No wonder it felt kinda hard.

0

Fist jam topout!

Skipped the jug out right. Extra points?

0