Ilija Gračanin

Sharp but nice moves

FA. The route has not been cleaned properly yet. No idea about the grade. The crux has some really small holds.

FA

Weird but fun boulder in the beginning then easy

Not so nice, needs some cleaning. Constant with a technical finish. 6a or 6a+ seems alright.

Day flash

Only 2 moves but very nice. Almost flashed it, but i didn't commit because of the big rock under me.

No crash pads, campus the crux. No idea about the grade.

Height dependant, hard to grade. For a tall person easier than 6B.

No idea about the grade, i had to campus it.

7A+ or 7B. Sharp holds, but nice moves with healhooks. One grade harder than Veliki Espreso if you exit at the end. First time i tried to send it i exited easy and i seemed very easy for the grade. Do not exit before the orange hold on the top.

Lowball but nice

Soft, max 7A+. Usually impossible to start from the roof because of the stones being pushed under the boulder. There is no jug on the roof anymore. I started from a small pocket.

Cool moves. Recommend.

Classic! Second ascent after Dima. The healhook hold broke, so I had to go with campus beta.

One move

Hard start

7th day in a row of climbing and i managed tto climb this one. Cool moves on slopers. Easy for the grade.

Cool problem on slopers. Soft for 6C.

Classic

No way 6A+. Felt as hard as some 6Cs here. But wery cool problem.

Very hard for 6A. Missed the top jug on the flash go.

Classic! Could not find a good foothold for the crux move and knee bar wasn't an option since i didn't have long pants. Somehow managed to power through without footholds😂. 7A easily with my beta. Felt significantly harder than all 6Cs i tried here, and even some 7As. Its probably much easier if you are shorter.

Maybe the best one i have tried in Prilep. But didn't feel like 7A at all.

Not hard after i found the correct starting position.

FA. Soft, maybe 7A. Hard to grade the campus move.

Weird one. Soft.

No idea about the grade. One hard blocky move.

First ascent. Nice flow with a dyno at the end.

Second ascent. Short but very cool moves.

Second ascent. 6C/+

No idea about the date

Shart, but nice moves on jugs. Maybe easier, some holds were wet.

Hard first move. Maybe easier, i don't know. I took a few tries to get the first move. Didn't have enough crash pads to try the direct variation.

Easy moves on the roof

5+, 6A? no idea.

Big first move from the pinch to the pocket.

Awesome. It took me 8 sessions and 3 months.

Shart, but really nice.

Easier start than Jupiter, but the crux is the same. If felt a grade easier than Jupiter.

A hold at the top broke. Now there is a boulder problem 1m before the anchor.

Couldn't find the undercling. There is only a sidepull 20cm above the ground. I started using the pinch and the sidepull. Felt very hard, but its only one move.

Second go. Easier than Pinch Factor 6B+

Went too much to the right. It was a fight but flashed it at the end. Felt harder, but i skipped a few good holds.

Harder than other 6As here

Some rocks have been pushed under the boulder. Its harder now

Hard

7A or 7A+. I was really tired when i did it, so it could be easier. Right part of the rock is restricted.

Sharp, no heal hooks. Felt stiff for a 5+ with my horrible beta.

One big move. Felt soft for 6A.

3rd go

Sharp. Hard for the grade. Maybe become big rocks have been pushed under the boulder.

6b+/c. Hard start than easier. Didn't like this route. Too many ledges.

Maybe 7a in better conditions, but never a 6c. Felt similar to Sheep are People Too 7a+ that i climbed day before.

Really nice moves, nice flow. Very technical, but not so hard. Still harder than all 7A+s on Perazića Do. If felt like 7A+, but I took me a long time to figure out the moves with the healhook. So, It could be as well a 7B. Also, at the time a sent Olive Tree, this one felt impossible.

Without the healhook. Maybe 7A+? One grade harder than Veliki Espresso. Going to the left seemed unnecessary. Going straight up seems more natural.

Starts easy and gets harder and harder. Really nice for warmup.

Hardest 6B+ ever. I think a hold broke. Still a bit easier than Revenant Jump.

Soft but really nice

6C+ or 7A. Nice moves, but sharp rock

The starting hold was completely wet so I skipped the first move. Have to come back to do the whole thing. No idea about the grade. 7A+ or harder.

A bit harder than Veliki Espreso 7A+ in Perazića Do.

My hardest ascent in flip flops 😂

Soft, felt more like a 6C+, but i sent Veliki Espreso 5 minutes before.

Maybe a bit soft, but one of the best in the area. One grade easier than Ruhling Rules.

Good for warm up

My favorite in Cijevna so far. Felt much easier in winter. 7b maybe?

FA. 7A/+. A bit harder than Supernova. Took me a while to figure out what to do with the sloper. Did not feel easier than Veliki Espresso 7A+.

FA. Hard start, everything else easier.

With kneepad. Found different beta. I tried with the beta from the FA video and it felt like 7A or 7A+. After that I found easier beta with an undercling which felt more like a 6C.

No way this is the same grade as Mark it eight dude. Many holds broke including the big tufa since the FA. For me this one is at least as difficult as Mark it eight dude ext.

Recommend! Best with a kneepad.

Nice one

FA

Easy and weird.

Awesome

Hard start, shourt bouldery route

Soft

Free solo

So close to sending

2nd go. Soft.

Soft, but one grade harder than Supernova 7A.

Hard and tricky start

Thought that i was climbing Hollow

No dyno. Statically went to a crimp with the right arm and then to the jug. Maybe easier than 6A?

It took a lot of time to figure out the beta. 6C+ with my weird beta with foot over the hand.

FA. No dyno

One of my favorites. Felt so hard last year, harder than all 7As I have done before. I wasn't able to do it in 2 days. Now, it felt easy. No idea about the grade, I guess its easier than 7A+, maybe 6C+ or 7A?

Soft 6c, hard 6b+?

FA. Happy to be back after a longer break. Felt a little bit easier than Supernova.

Bad bolt placement, otherwise a nice short route

Hard 6c, maybe even 6c+ 😂

Rope solo. Shallow tufa with no footholds. Hard bolder problem in the beginning than easy. Maybe easier when its colder but in June it felt like 8a for sure 😂. At least 2 grades harder than Skyscraper of Doom.

Awesome steep climbing on tufa jugs

Nice bouldery route on jugs.

Much harder than Aj sa srecom. Technical climbing with a crux near the top. I really don't think that this one is easier that 6a.

Second go. Beautiful one, next time i will try to go to the second anchor. Bolts are very far apart after the first anchor, maybe around 4m. Maybe 7a?

FA first go. Soft 6c? After 10m of climbing on Dve Banane go right to Reinoso Paraiso. The line is quite obvious and natural.

Hardest onsight. Not sure about the grade, I realized that I skipped the jug in the exit of the crux. A soft 7a with my beta.

Classic!

So close on my 3rd go. The crux was wet. Feels soft for the grade, maybe 7b+ would be better.

Some rock have been pushed under the boulder so its not possible to start from the roof. I used the first hold(pinch) above the roof as a start. It would be really nice if it were possible to start from the roof and it would be a grade or two harder for sure, but like this its not harder than 6C.

Finally. Its been a project for 2 years. Its really height dependant. For me it felt more like a 7A+, but it took so many tries to find the appropriate beta. If Veliki Espreso is 7A+, this one is 7B for me.

5+ or 6A?

FA. No clue about the grade. I was completely exhausted when i sent it.

Nice move, but not a dyno for me. Took only 3 tries.

Better than it looks. Easier than Pravoslavni

Hard 6c+

FA

Rope solo. Awesome bolder problem, maybe 7A+?. Got the beta, time to send it.

Nice toehook beta. One grade easier then Supernova for me, so 6C+

Awesome line. Came together much quicker than expected. Maybe 7B fits better.

Flash was soo close. Feels soft for 7a+, but maybe i just got used to Smokovac grades too much.

Endurance monster with a 6B+ crux at the end. Only 5 goes after figuring out the beta. Felt very soft for 8a. Maybe 7c or 7c+?

Beautiful pumpy route with a crux in the middle aroud 6B

Second go, maybe a soft 6c+. Bouldery route, hard to onsight.

Second go. Bouldery route, two hard moves everything else much easier. But still, a nice route.

Beautiful. One go, hard for 7a+

Soft. Nice moves in the crux

Really nice traverse on small crimps

Very powerful. Hard to avoid dabbing. I dabbed on my first ascent, then repeated without a dab. 7A/+

6b+/c. Felt like a soft 6c, but it could be a 6b+ because it was an onsight. Found a knee bar at the crux.

Really nice begging on tufas

Soft

A beautiful route, hard grade

Similar to Supernova, but goes to the right. It's not easier than Supernova for me.

Hard V4 boulder problem on small sidepulls in the middle, than easy. Hard for 7a, but i felt weak. I had fever the day before. With my beta it felt like a 7a+. There is a possibly easier beta using a drop knee , but I just powered though the crux.

Entry boulder problem around V3 than easy. Cannot be less than 6b+.

Long moves, good kneebars and a crux on the roof.

New shoes, slipped on the onsight go. 6a+/b

Interesting slab

First ascent. Maybe a soft 6c. Still needs some cleaning. There is a runout below the anchor, but that section is much easier than the rest of the route.

6c/+. Entry boulder problem on 2 small crimps

6B+ entry boulder, then easier climbing on jugs with not so many footholds. Below the anchor there is another boulder problem with a big move and no footholds.

Hard. 6A entry boulder the easy climbing on jugs. It would have been an onsight if a hold didn't break.

Interesting technical boulder problem

Classic

Needs some cleaning below the anchor

Be careful of loose rock. Needs to be cleaned

Domaćin stijene. First Ascent. Loose rock in the last few meters

Bad feet, weird dead point move or maybe my beta was horrible. Felt like a 6B

Felt really tired after failing so many times on Rainbow Gravity. Between 6C and 7A

FA

Really nice route if you start from the bottle ledge. Big moves on jugs on big overhang.

Second go. Too good for one star. Very soft grade. I was so psyched, maybe that's why it felt like a 6c+. It could be a 7a, but never a 7a+.

The best in this grade range. Way too soft for 6C. Maybe 6A or 6A+

Awesome. Pumpy gym style route with a 6B crux in the middle. 7a+/b.

Really nice. 7a+/b

FA

FA

Dirty

Hard. 2nd go. Went straight up. Entry boulder

Pumpy route without a single hard move. Nice for warm up. Probably the softest grade in Smokovac 😂

Very sharp

Slippery footholds

.

Bad feet, had to campus. Hard to grade, the boulder was soaking wet. Maybe 6B+ or less if its dry 😂 After a repeat i think 6B fits better than 6B+

FA. One hard move, dyno for me. Start from the jug, upper crack restricted. Found better foot placement, now it feels soft for 7A.

Second go. Nice powerfull crux on tufas. Soft 7a or hard 6c+ but not a 6c for sure

2nd go. Harder than Y Legende, maybe a soft 6c+

2nd go. Should have been an onsight...

First ascent, second go. If you use holds left from the arete it could be easier, but without them i think its 6c.

Second go

Powerful, awesome. Had to finish on single tufa because the right tufa was completely wet. Without the good holds on the right it felt like 7b.

Nice moves on underclings. 6c/+

Second go. Not my style, but it felt soft. 6c+?

Soft 7b/+?

Entry boulder than constant 6c climbing to the anchor.

A beauty. Watch out for a broken tufa. The tufa broke, now it is one grade harder i think.

Pumpy route on tufa jugs with a 6B crux at the end. Soft 7a+ maybe. Maybe easier with a knee bar.

very short

6a/+

Second go, foot sliped just below the anchor. Hard when its 0 degrees. Crux just below the anchor, everything else much easier.

Second go. Powerfull moves on tufas in the first half followed by a slab to the anchor.

Not so hard with the knee bar. Nice technical climbing to the roof, then a hard boulder problem around 6B+ followed by an easy finish. Beautiful rock, if it was longer i would be a 3 star route. Stays dry in the rain.

Sharp, but nice moves. Soft for 7A

Technical tufa climbing. Hard for 6a+

Second go, foot slipped on the onsight go. Technical climbing in the beginning, then powerful crux between 2 tufas into an easy chimney finish. 6b+/c

Tried this one some time ago. First go this time. Nice one on tufa jugs.

Second go. Height dependant crux, easier if tall. Soft 6c+

2nd go. There are no grades, only weakness

Short, bouldery. Maybe i am too single minded, went straight up. It's easier if you go left, but still no way this is a 5

Bouldery, 3 hard moves on small holds. Its possible to go left and skip these moves. 6b+ if you go straight up, with left beta it may be easier but still not a 6a

6C+/7A. Nice one with toehooks

Pointless

Sandbag 😂, not a 5 for sure

Found different beta and with it i think it is max 6C. With beta from Pavel on the FA it is 7A definitely.

Would not recommend this route. On 4th bolt starts really bad climbing on dirty rock. Really nice crux though around 6C/+.

Hard when its 30 degrees

Hold broke on the flash attempt. Nice moves on jugs, but bad rock quality

finger strength

Perfect one. My hardest so far. I think I found easier beta than the beta from Pavel. Maybe easier than 7B.

Definitely not 7A+

2nd go

Nice moves in the first half, than finish on jugs. 6B/+ if you dont use the jugs on the second block.

Soft, maybe 6B+. One of the best here

Soft for 6B+

Soft. Sharp, ugly, would not recommend. It would have been a flash, but a hold broke.

Nice dyno

FA

Hard one. Took me 5 tries. Nice crux at the end.

Soft for 6A+

2nd go. Nice moves, but needs cleaning

Soft. Ugly, dirty, sharp

Soft, maybe 6b. Really nice but short with tricky end.

Height dependant crux, easier if tall. For me it is not a 6c, maybe 6b+

The worst route ever

6B+ without bat hang, 6A with bat hang

Pointless

Hard start