Stuart Millis

Super fun problem with big moves between [mostly] good holds

Originally redpointed it around 2001/02 but snuck in a quite repeat send on this day - couple of low bouldery cruxes then steady easier climbing to the top

heartbreaker finishing move...

hard start and committing finish

no real difference between the left hand and right hand top outs provided the big ledge is avoided if going left

Harder than when it was originally climbed in 2008 due to the demise of some footholds - now given V7 (but could be a bit easier once you unlock a sequence that works for you)

One of my proudest FA's in the Forest

The best V8 in Hong Kong IMHO

did the FA sometime in 2008

somehow never bothered with this one before - actually quite nice when you figure out which of the evil pockets to simply ignore and bypass (one trip up it to suss this out and then in the bag first RP attempt so F7a seems fair)

sds start

V4 from the sit and soft V3 from stand on the sloper. Also kinda fun if you miss the jug on the arete too (more like a proper V4 that way)

If you sit start from the boulder, using pocket and high side pull, its not too hard (but kinda scary at the top). Also fun to link this start in to the line to the right too.

One of the best at Tsuen Wan - live the mantle finish

Grade only counts for true sit start - eg one pad max and the very last thing to leave the floor is your arse...

technical interesting climbing

Superb fun route once you use knee bars etc.

Superb climb and the logical finish

If climbed on a cold day with good skin, feels okay - otherwise feels nails. Fingery hard crux and great bouldery throw along lip after that. Then pumpy traverse to finish. Great fun.

thin technical climbing up the groove. we finished up the long route above (Lucky Road) rather than out right as this seemed more logical

Guess it’s easier for taller folk as felt quite a cruisy F6c

Blew the onsight on the last move...

Full on thrutching in the mid-part

Hard crimping

Not really much harder than just doing Fury - good rest beneath roof then a couple of big pulls on okay holds and it’s done

Easy until it isn’t... Jug pulling to half height then a couple of bouldery low percentage crux sections and a frustratingly fall off’ able top move

Solid F7b or very soft F7b+. Not my style at all but went down third RP attempt.

Grade could be anywhere between F7c and F8a - felt super easy on the send but had multiple days of it feeling desperate before that... Regardless, one of the best new routes i've ever done

Felt pretty solid for the grade. Crux crimps feel like some rigorous cleaning was involved....

Bolt to bolt then send... Positive crimps and high steps, no more than F7b/F7b+ IMHO, too short and basic to be any harder (although one of the low feet snapped so now an extra inch to get that high step on low crux).

A unique climb - not much stemming to be done in HK

Very dirty at the minute.

Maybe just F7a+? Went down much quicker than expected. Boulder problem start up the arete then relatively steady above that.

Marginally easier than Fury, slightly harder than Ice Cream

A little bit crumbly right now - needs some traffic

Great climb

Graded F7c as several others thought that more appropriate - i think just solid/stiff F7b+ as only took a handful of attempt to send. Tricky and not obvious crux may stump some people...

Great climb - powerful and bouldery low down then technical face clmbing above.

Tricky low crux, then much easier above. Borderline F6b+/6c, but prob worth the grade for the trouble it'll give the short...

Absolute classic

Soft F7a - felt about right at this grade for onsight (fell on last move out left). Felt way easier (easier than The Corner at TL) for redpoint once I knew the moves

F7b at most - super short bouldery hard bit, rest is easy

Quite tricky and technical for the grade.

Was hot as hell so maybe easier in better conditions

Fell between last bolt and anchor on the onsight attempt

bolt to bolt once then send, no ways its 7c...

Debated the magic grade for this one long and hard but felt the crux just wasn’t hard enough, just very easy to fall off tho...

Date is a guess - can’t remember exactly when we did it other than 2007

FYI: the FA and F8a grade is for going direct up the groove and wall to the left once above the overlap, not using the pocket (or bolts) out right on Mere Mortals, which was added later on.

First ascent - date is a guess

F.A. was done in 2003 - not sure who put the date in the description here but it’s wrong...

Scary as...