Frank Koopman

Amazing, three styles of climbing in one climb (chimney, face and slabby). Tried it first on a bad day with new belaypartner. Took the whipper on the crux moves, which I kinda let go of/got too scared to think. Hasn't happened in a while. Second time tried it toprope with David as first climb of the day, dayflashed it. Then did it on lead. I found a way to get around the foothold that is getting too slippery (still usable) by going up left and stand on the block, then traverse into the crux using a waterdroplet foot and dancing around the gaston-turns-sidepull. Oh yeah and the bolt at the crux is not where you want it, the whip was about 6m. Good fall though, thanks Basti. Everybody talks about 16 draws but I think we only used 9 plus anchors. Some at the bottom belong to the route on the left side and give more ropedrag.

Goddamn hard for a 5... Extremely polished. Don't recommend this one, do the 6a on the other side of the tooth, is much nicer.

Very, very cool for this grade. Getting over the bulge is cruxy but if you work the feet you can do it controlled.

Kinda polished but quite nice climbing, no hard moves as long as you don't dive into the hole right before the anchor.

My first 7a! Got it on the second go in the second session, perfect conditions right before dark and nicely warmed up. Was really scared to try it first time but ended up skipping the first bolt on my send go.

Lovely steady and flowy climb.

Good footwork required.

6a+ but really good. The third bolt above the ledge is hiding behind a bit of brush so you think you're in for a 6 meter runout but you're not.

Pumpy. Dropped it last week because supertired. Today felt supernice. Clipsticked the high first bolt but not really needed in hindsight, at least if you use the tree. A bit reachy.

Broccoli-crack at the top is hard when wet. Skipped the first two bolts for a bit of extra fun.

First bit is delicate, I clipsticked bolt one and loved the moves. Great varied climbing all the way up to the top, which you get some good rests in between.

Hardest 6C(+) on Bedees for me. I found the crux hard to read, even when hanging there and trying on the first go.

6b according to Rockfax, but harder on the grade. Lovely varied climbing, best climb on the tooth for sure.

Finally some tree climbing again.

Lovely textures and holds on this one.

Lovely lovely climbing! Just straight up, no need to go left or right.

Quite nice this one.

Felt hard the first and the second time. 6B left of it also felt crazy hard.

Nice sequence in the crux from small holds and then a big move to a jug.

not a good warmup (for me), listed in the book as V+. it's definitely not feeling like other V's.

perfect. nice climb, holds everywhere.

easy going but nice ending, it's a bit weird ending. Some pro people (Vlad) recommend ending left over the slab (different anchor) instead of ending by going right under the roof. I liked the right ending more.

My first 6C! After doing several others, this felt definitely the hardest. Crux is hard, insecure, above the bolt and sequency. But it has a good rest before. Still my fav crag to this day.