Branko Pajic

Golden! I'm feeling really proud of this one. First, because it is one of those which is totally not my style (not to mention the morpho hole for the critical heel toe jam). Second, because I thought I would never climb such a notoriously bouldery route. Third, because I pulled it off before the process went into a full siege. It took 6 sessions, around 15 tries. Hard boulder crux in 40 deg overhang guards the no hands rest in a kneebar, then another boulder guards the second kneebar rest, and then finicky outro to the chains. Psyched!

2nd go. I had a good onsight try. Same, same but different. It's the only one at the sector in which the crux is not the final meter of climbing.

Short route, with nice and sharp holds, a bit spicy at the top.

Thin pockets, good rest, nice moves until the lip.

4th go. After seeing that Ki was unclimable in the sun, we came here only to find the sector wet. This little punchy route gave us trouble, it went at the hail marry 4th go of the day, even though I held the top hold on my 2nd try, just barely, and couldn't clip the anchor.

Fuck yeah, finally! It became a mental war. Too many tries; went from thinking it'll be a quick tick to all out multi season proj. Nevertheless, amazing piece of climbing, a classic. Full tension over 11 moves from Noz to Ili nisi kneebar. I feel free now :)

Freak day. First part of Two Steps went better than ever, recovered in the rest a bit, and then full fight mode in Australis crux.

Training linkup that starts in Elton, through Cunami, project and ends in Cunami. Felt too pumpy last year, and quite easy this year.

Psyched! What a boulder! Short, intensive, no stopping. Shouldery, slopery moves at the start, and then tensiony moves with small crimps at the end. Did it first day this season, feeling really strong. Let's go!

Nah...

6 goes. Rather similar to everything in part of the sector, overhanging on good holds, with a crux to turn the lip. Climbed really well on the send go.

2nd go. Wet, rotten rock, strange. It was an adventure, for sure.

3rd go. Nice route in the cave, a straight line through the slight overhang. It features really interesting and awkward crux to start with, and then after the rest you need to sprint to a crimp fest until the easy ending.

3rd go. Great bouldery route. No stopping on this one, and the moves are great.

Really nice, good warmup for the rest of the routes at the sector.

2nd go. A bit tricky but very nice.

Odd, offwidth, dirty...

3rd go. First go of the day, with quickdraws. Pumpy intro leads to a good rest, to a technical slab. Really good flow and nice moves.

5th go. Burly climbing on good holds, then stressful kneebar rest, and finally dynamic crux turning the lip. Felt good.

3rd go. Retro flash this time.

2nd go. Nice intro crux leads to a strange last move. It was a bit harder for me, but maybe I'm just rusty.

2nd go. Very interesting climbing, slab and vert on tiny holds, bad feet, funny positions and a lot of climbing. I fell on the flash attempt, basically exiting the last crux...

Basic, but fun.

Looks easier than it is. A bit contrived and short, but hey...

4th go. Crazy good route! First try after 2 years. Cool entry boulder, tricky middle with an improbable backstep and then a crux at the end.

Flash. Cool crimping lead to overhanging jug fest.

3rd go. One of the best routes in Serbia! 38m tall, easy first pitch, a good rest, and then paddling on good holds and managing your pump until the very end. Psyched!

2nd go. Missed the flash by aiming at the tickmarked sloping rail instead of going to a jug just above :( Crimpy crux in the first few bolts, good rest, and then easy climbing in the overhang until the end. Happy!

2nd go. Excellent route! Missed the flash by going right instead left, and couldn't reverse. Really good balancy crux at the top.

One of the life goals achieved! It's hard to believe this honestly. It was the hardest route in Serbia when I started climbing in 2009. King line of the sector, 20 degrees overhang with awesome crux right at the end with a lot of air below you. After the season ended, in a freak weather window, totally unexpected. The send felt sureal.

Another one I thought I would never be able to do. Really hard first move guards fantastic climbing on amazing edges to the top. Honestly, one of the greater achievements, that first move is my anti-style totally.

3rd go. An eliminate, not using the right-hand side ramp. Might be a 7b+, but knowing the top crux too well it feels more like a 7b. Anyway, great climbing, cool moves, worth checking out if there's nothing else to climb on at the crag :D

Wow! I honestly had a period when I though I couldn't ever climb a route as hard as this. I thought it just wasn't achievable for me. So it's a great relief to climb it. 'Ili nisi...' is a slightly overhanging route meeting a classic undercling fest to the top. It breaks down into two boulders, where the first one with its dyno was the crux for me. I was quite calm all the way, and managed to enjoy the experience. Great times!

Laybacking with strange route ending.

2nd go. Short, easy climbing on bulletproof rock until the contrived ending with big moves on good holds. Felt quite awkward but that's life...

2nd go. Technical tension climbing up a vertical face with small holds.

This was an adventure! Across two years I was probably more than 30 times on it. It felt impossible at first, then unlocking the moves felt a bit better, but it always felt quite far away. This year it was quite better, and the last session after quite a fight I caught the last hold and fell clipping the chains. I had the experience on the route I was seeking for, and yet I couldn't take the tick. But I came back and finished it off. Why - probably because of the ego. The moves are brilliant on this thing, even though the looks of the route are not stellar. True burly overhanging climbing, big moves, good holds, quite my anti style. Anyways, great times by the river, with the best crew there is!

Link up starting in Leva ruka tame and finishing in Super surfer.

Wow! Honestly, this one means a lot, as it's quite my anti-style. I've tried it a few times over the years, and it always felt new level hard for me. This year it took 20 tries. I gained a bit more confidence with every session, but in the end it did take at least 5 more tries than it could have. Nevertheless, I'm really happy to have sent this. Around 45 degrees overhanging, 10 meters long, but purely technical climbing: heel hooks, heel toe cams and two kneebars. Right on!

3 goes this year. It's a tricky route, seemingly easy but really resistant. It doesn't give in at any time, and the moves all seem to be compression intensive. Short and powerful moves in a 15 deg overhang, with some easier climbing at the end.

14 tries. Gem of a route. If the Surfer intro wasn't that sharp and gnarly it would be a much more of a classic. It went quick, even though I tried it in full sun at least 6 tries. After Surfer, there is a tensiony crux, and then enduro run till the end. Great fun!

It took 4 tries this season; I had a few more in the past, which were mainly ill timed. Really happy to have ticked this one fast, as I used to think it's not my style. It climbs the crux of Noz i Pogaca, and then continues left into the more overhanging and burly moves, then some technical climbing on edges, before you arrive at a great rest. It finishes with a nice boulder problem and a final throw to the jug. I fell there 2 times before figuring better footholds and a position for a move. On the redpoint, it was a first go of the day, I felt cold and jittery, and it wasn't my best performance. Still, it went, which means it was well below my limit, and I was glad to have upped my mental game. I cut 2 big holes in my fingers, and was extremely glad that I had done it that go. Onwards!

8th go. I tried it two years ago after I've done Cunami, and it felt impossible. This year it went down in 2 very hot days, after 6 goes. I was really amped to send this 2nd tier, as I needed some confidence boost. The send go wasn't perfect, I made 2 mistakes that could have cost me the send, but I didn't punt! Boulder crux during the first 4 bolts, and then easy ride to the top.

2nd go. Bouldery intro leads into the undercut heavy second half. It's short but fun.

Blocky, slaby, short and a bit more fun!

Blocky, slaby and short :D

2nd go. Techy, with small edges and footholds. It's nice to climb slabs again.

First real granite climbing. Quite refreshing and fun. The route is easy, on good rails through an open corner.

Pitch one of the giant climb. It follow a black tufa with a few powerful moves on good holds. The first route after 3 months of isolation in the mountains.

4th go. Fine climbing in the slight overhang on good holds, and then some dirty slab top out. It's always funny how my ego stops me from exploring other climbing in an area only for the sake of sending. Letting go and enjoying the activity is always hard.

Awkward route. Too many mono and pocket pulling, especially for the crag this is at. Unfortunately, all pockets are manufactured, even though the upper part is totally natural, and furthermore - it's some of the best climbing on the wall. I tried the route quite a few times last year, always trying the more direct beta for the crux. Today, after a month of strength phase, I did the alternate beta right away, and the route went on the second redpoint try.

Great name for a great route. 8 years ago I was inspired by this route and named my first climbing club after it. I wondered if I will ever be able to climb it. It didn't take many attempts in the end, as it's well under my limits, but nevertheless the process was needed to make it happen. Almost 25m of nicest climbing, with crimp crux at the start, followed by a pumpy ride through the runouts.

5th go. Wow! Best climbing day ever. It started with the send of this route, and it was the showdown on HMHF. Anyway, Voja belayed and offered huge supporting talk during the whole send. Amazing one, with boulder at the start, nice ride in the middle, and tricky crimp crux at the end. Quite happy to finish it quickly.

25 goes. Wow! Best climbing day ever. It started with sending Referendum, so with clear head, and no pressure I got on this. Voja belayed. Power endurance route, with perfect rock, nice moves, and a technical beta for the end crux. It started to bog me down a bit, but I prevailed :)

3go. Fine crack with tricky slab at the end. I did it using Voja's scrunched beta, but felt that my stretched out beta was better / easier for me. Oh well...

3go. I tried it on two occasions, but it felt crimpy and hard. It turns out it's easy and simple :) Short, fast and sharp.

2nd go. Actually, it felt like a lash, since I tried it once 7 years ago. Powerful, crimpy movement in the crux, followed by a hero jugs in the overhang. Nice one!

Unbelievable! Hands down the best route I've ever climbed, the longest project I've ever accomplished and the biggest relief I've ever felt. After almost 3 years and about 70 tries I executed every move perfectly and was lucid enough to hold the tension through the final dyno and stick it. What a journey!

The most polished route ever. Scary arete on a glassy footholds, with a crux near the top. I was wrecked, but nevertheless it was a horror.

2go. Plain but good route. Nice and easy intro leads to a good rest and a boulder crux before the easy topout. Not polished as the neighbouring routes, which is nice :)

Classic. Layback a really good crack all the way. Felt wrecked on the third day on, and barely stuck this one.

Good and plain route, that felt unusually hard.

Fun and long route at the wonderful crag! Slabby and sharp, until the very end where a tricky overhanging moves lurk!

Kinda broken, and loose, until the crux at the end, which is solid.

Long and easy.

2go. Nice and thin crux on this one.

Wow! Best flash ever, and on the first day of the trip! Really good route, fine moves and quite exciting lead.

Hard for the grade, with a fine crux at the start and an ending you wouldn't wanna botch.

5Go. Awesome route! I wanted another second-tier side project, but this one went faster than I thought. Really hard boulder crux right from the ground, and then redpoint crux off a small crimp. Great climbing on an underestimated block. I'm happy :)

Finally I've sent something hard! Oh, I needed this so much! Did it on my 7th go, totally out of the blue. I blazed through the crux unexpectedly, and then it was game on - held my nerve 'till the end! Awesome route - hard technical boulder followed by good rest and then endurance climbing on good holds to the chains. Thrilled! :)

Bulletproof rock intersected with horizontal cracks. A good warm-up route in the shade.

A slab with tricky crux sequence near the top, including funky 2f pocket and a micro hold.

Actually I climbed it 1st go, but grabbed a tree in the crux, so I decided to re-climb it without the tree. It follows a diagonal ramp with nice crux moves at the end. Not so good climbing, though.

Short, with definite crux from the ground. A few small crimps and a big dyno. Nice!

3go; arete with good heel hooks offers some nice tech climbing. This was the first climb after 3 months off, hence my awful climbing :(

Little bit tricky in the beginning, it offers a nice crux at half-height and an airy but easy ending. Cool route.

Burly intro, with funky rock to the top.

Crumbly rock, intersected by some solid down-facing blocks. Nice, relaxing climbing by the river .

Nice 2-pitch route, starting directly from the Danube river.

I wanted to do this route for the last five years. Actually, it is not that good, rather dirty, with lots of grass in the cracks, and a fair bit of choss. Nevertheless, the crux pitch is not so bad, and has pretty exciting crux, involving entering short overhang on quite exposed spot.

2Go, really good warmup route. Quite similar to its bigger brother, Klopka, it offers slightly overhanging climbing on good holds, with nice crux sequence. The ending in the roof of the cave is the icing on the cake.

Hard route. Powerful beginning lead to hard crimping to exit the crux. I don't plan on doing this again :)

2Go, tough beginning leads to the overhanging part on good holds.

Little contrived, but fun route, with really bad rock.

Easy and fun.

Good holds in short overhang.

3Go; I was pretty good on the OS attempt, but fell with my fingers on the final bucket. It felt hard, but probably due to hot conditions and thin skin. Nice crux boulder and an adventure till the end.

Amazing route. It was real treat to finish this one, although it was stressful when about a month ago I fell one meter from the top on an easy slab outro. Great cave, great climbing, great rock and happy moments.

Tried it a few times over two years. Good bouldery moves with spicy clips and landing.

Nicer than the other routes on the block. Tricky first section and then easy ride.

2Go, Overhanging first section with good holds leads to the crux. Really nice climbing.

2Go, easy flake climbing until the powerful crux at the end.

Bolted MP, 90m, but not worth the effort. Second pitch is just ridiculous.

3Go, even though I can`t say it`s pretty, it was actually fun to climb this boulder on a rope. Eerie fog and rain made this cave ascent quite nice.

Good for warm up or down.

3Go, really good route. Bouldery intro on slopery holes and nice pumping moves till the end.

Easy and nice for starts.

3Go, an excellent route. Long, with great moves in the crux, and an exciting ending.

Hard and awkward. Not that nice.

Classic "trapez" route - long and nice with crux at the end.

Long and good for warm up.

Great route. Big moves, and crux at the end, when you`re fairly pumped.

Nice moves on horizontal breaks in the bulletproof limestone. Really nice route.

2Go, slippery traversing crack, not so good as the neighbouring routes.

Hard and awkward, but better then it seams.

Follows dihedral, and ends in an awkward overhang. It felt hard.

Dyno at the start, then easy till the end.

Finally! I've been working this route for a while now, and been trying the intro crux move quite a few times. The second time I stuck the first move on sharp end, I sent it. Great moves and great route on the otherwise chossy little city crag. The full challenge is still on - highball ascent.

This is variant of a route Abnormal, via an easier intro. I climbed this because the original intro was entirely wet. It follows horizontal crack beneath the huge roof. Actually, we tried to add 2nd pitch, on gear, but punted out. Nevertheless, great route.

2Go. An old trad route, protected by pegs, that got bolted at one point. I tried it as second in 2009, but couldn't do it free. This year it went first try. Tricky climbing in corners, with steming through two overhanging bulges. Bulletproof rock.

Good for warm up.

Awesome route; starts with few powerful moves in slight overhang, and then eases, with tricky exit moves.

I climbed this awfully, but it's not hard. Slab and then jugs in overhang.

2Go, bullet proof rock, great intro crimping with chimney ending.

Great route. Feeling tired and with badly bruised chest, I managed to cruise this, and it was quite a ride.

3Go, tried it years ago and couldn't do the crux. Now it went 1st try. Cool moves on a slab.

Burly intro, but lousy route.

MP with Voja. Ugly, through bushes and pretty scary.

When I tried it five years ago it seemed impossible. Now it went first go. Really nice slab with great crux.

Tricky traverse with bad feet.

2Go, crazy cold! Nice overhang in chimney with tricky exit into the slab.

Nothing to say.

Mediocre.

No comment.

Choss.

2Go, bouldery start into balance driven slab. Nice.

3Go, very long with crux in the upper section. I broke a hold just before anchors on my 2nd attempt and had a huge fall. Great route.

2Go, technical slab with nice crux moves.

Route goes through dirty, overhanging crack, and is very scary.

2Go, ugly and bad.

Good climbing with crack crux.

Long, good for warm up.

3Go, Jugs in huge overhang, with slight twist on the lip.

Tough laybacking crack through overhanging corner. It was a fight.

Long, with huge friable blocks. Quite scary.

Sketchy beginning and then easy ride.

Too many tries. Fell on the OS, with a hair short of success, and then went into wormhole of failure, and sent on 4th attempt.

Could be harder, but didn't feel so.

Nice and easy.

Great, long and easy.

Easy and cool for warm up.

2Go, short and with defined crux

Crimpy, thin and certainly not 6a.

Two overhangs and easy slab in between. Nice.

Contrived crux on start, quite easy afterwards.

Ugly and chossy, but fun moves.

Hard for the original grade. Old school.

All three pitches, first time. It was epic ascent with extremely loose and chosy 3rd pitch.

Great route, vertical with only mono and two finger pockets. I enjoyed it, my hardest onsight.

I tried this route a few years ago, and couldn't do it, it was just too hard for the grade. Old school, burly and tough.

Wow, a great route that climbs out of the huge overhanging cave through series of good holds. Really good movement, pure enjoyment.

Full version, which adds 3 moves and ends on the top of the boulder.

Wow, an epic. I did it on my 9th try, which is a lot considering the grade. Maybe it just didn't suit me, but it might be 6c+.

This one has a few betas for the crux, but this one is the easiest, hence the grade. Choss.

Long route on an arete.

Great route. Powerful beginning, followed by technical crux, and then great crimping till the end of this rig. Awesome.

3Go, slab with no good holds, only bad slopers.

2Go. It has 3 glued holds, but really good climbing on perfect rock. Fell on onsight after the crux, oh well...

Great warm up. It follows big groove.

3Go, big moves and techy crux in the end.

Straightforward, good for warm up.

Maybe 6b. Really tough and crimpy with bad feet.

Good route. Nice movements, and you have to dodge a tree in the mid of crux.

Great climbing. Vertical and slightly overhanging, it offers awesome movement. The crux is to stand up while holding two underclings after the fun tufa moves.

Wow. One of my hardest onsights. You have to stuck an open gaston before mantling out on easy top out.

Not so smooth.

Interesting crux, in which you fight your way out of the small roof.

2Go. Awesome! First try this year, I tried it once last year. Great moves on jugs in majestic orange overhang. It gets harder at the end, though.

Long and fun. Small holds on grey slab in the middle of the giant limestone wall.

Incredible fight at the end. I hardly managed not to fall, and was pumped out of my mind, as I was climbing it in the dark with the headlamp, and couldn't see the footholds. Really long and technical route.

Long and nice for warm up.

Nice moves on a slab.

Great route. Slab and then long moves on good holds.

2Go, overhang with good holds, and then mantle on slopers. Climbs really good.

Tricky slab with very few holds, with strong finish.

Ehh, not so good.

Ugly route on an ugly city crag.

New, right version, after the hold in original line broke. Not so bad, nice moves.

My main goal for this season is done! Hard crux on the 2nd clip, but the real redpoint crux is in the overhang, where you have to endure...

Crimpy. Easy for onsight.

First try after toprope inspection last year.

2Go, short, sharp and mossy.

Nice moves in the crux. The route is on a big, 12 meters high, free standing boulder in alpine area, the valley of Grbaja in Prokletije.

3Go, pretty ugly and chossy on top, but it has some nice moves in the crux.

It links two pitches in one, great and long climb.

Jugs in slight overhang, nice and pumpy.

This is choss.

Hardest onsight, but it's easier than in the guidebook. Great piece of rock.

Crimpy start, with nice and easy overhang up to the top.

Bouldery. 8m high, but no stopping on this one. 4 days, 11 tries.

It's actually an easier version of a route called Skepsa, which is hard 7a+. It shares upper part, but follows large ramp in the begining.

Chossy chimney.

In the Oboki cave, jugs in roof. Fun and dirty.

Roof climbing on jugs.

Obvious holds make this one easy for onsight.

2Go, fun climbing on flakes and cracks.

Extension of Poč II. Long and cool.

2Go, great climb. About 30 meters high with perfect rock.

Beautiful line. Breakthrough for me, really great to redpoint something in new personal realm.

2Go, long, relaxed, and fun for warm up.

Beautiful line on solid, yellow limestone. It took me 4 tries this year.

For some reason it felt harder for me.

Ugly.

2Go, first try this year.