James Squire

After almost 2 months of resting and coping with a serious finger injury, I am finnally outdoors again, and getting back into it! Not sure on grading atm with my finger and all but felt about right, nice one Cailean on the first ascent! Took me about 1.5 - 2 hours and used some different beta that suited me better :-) great day, good to feel pysched again!

Brilliant cutloose hitting the break! Been meaning to try this for a while... finger injury is recovering!

Done the top before and managed first go from sitting today, once I pulled on! Topped out to a beautiful evening sunset, amazing!:)

Ever since doing King of Swingers a year ago I have dreamed about getting this done... and went about 5th go today after about 20mins!!! So so so pysched :-) used same beta as Hamish, one of the best boulders I've ever done!

Cool problem from sitting at the back of the roof/seam using a nice heel hooking sequence :-) a bit hard to get to but worth it! Hard 7b+

Awsome problem, one of the best I've done! Spent a session on it a week ago but did about 4th go today :-) Scary finishing moves!

Felt 7c to me but maybe just not my style. Cool moves never the less, found the undercuts very tensiony, don't think I breathed intill I caught the finish jug! Nice one Tom of the FA, now for the Flying Fortress extension :-)

Good session with Ellis, who found a slightly easier sequence dropping the original to V9/10 so this extension should be good V10 - nice training link. Last moves are hard after the extension moves! Also started working the overhanging roof to the left but was a bit too warm today so hopefull will go on Saturday :-)

Such a sick problem, think I tried this before but thought was too hard. Found some new beta today and went in just under two hours! Took a few big falls from the top though, feels quite exposed :-) Video on my facebook page here: http://www.facebook.com/#!/photo.php?v=405195002869905 Update: new beta at v9

Probably done before but good fun never the less!! Brilliant view from the top out :-)

Really cool climbing out of the pit with some nice topout moves :-)

Nice climb up the arete to a scary top out! Hidden gem...

Once again an amazing line! Didn't take too long :-)

Lovely moves and a brilliant find Ellis! Topped out in the sun to an awsome view of the surrounding sea cliffs. Took about 20mins. Amazing... just amazing :-)

Brilliant move! Went on my 5th go, first two goes I couldn't even pull on but slowly got used to the hold and it was in the bag :-) felt soft but maybe becuase I've got small fingers!

So pysched to have flashed this and what a battle it was! Almost fell of the first move, the first move to the crimp, the drop in towards the end, the second last move and the last move! I think 7b/c is about right, but this was totally my style, will be harder and more bunched for taller people. Big thanks to Ellis for the beta :-)

I reckon this sits in the font 7c/8a grade. After many falls from the last move I finally managed to stick it right at the end of the session thanks to a foot beta change from Ellis :-) This could be considerably harder for taller people with bigger fingers! Great effort Ellis for the first ascent.

2nd ascent? After spending many sessions on the original I spent another 2 for this extension, once again used my checky heel! Went in the morning to catch the crag in cool shade. Feels good as this is my first session being sponsored by La Sportiva/Lyon Outdoor :-)

Did second go from the start after trying the moves. Started right around the corner on the left hand side, thought this was font7b+? Nice problem if a bit pupmy! Got rained off just after so headed over to the works and had a beastly session!! :-) Good training for British Boulder Champs in a week!

Repeated second go using Ellis' sequence with the heel, feels easier than my original beta!

Didn't take to long, slightly easier that the original :) nice one Tom and Ellis for the idea to go left hand!

Nice climb, if a bit skin trashing! Not my style but liked the slopey slaps and topout :-) Was a very warm day and was climbing with my school, so didn't get on much other hard stuff... was good fun though.

Quite hard, or mabey just painful! Pleased to get done :)

Tried before, but last few holds were seeping melted snow! Glad to get this done today, pumpy though!

Brilliant!! Took a few falls from the small pockets at the top, but managed it right at the end of the session topping out in the beautiful evening sun :)

Finally I've got the first ascent!! Found this project just under a year ago and got it done today after about 1 hour! Very long with the last few moves as the crux, propably needs a route grade of F8a+? Dream complete, an epic! :-)

Hard! Last few moves are definatly the crux, glad to get this done today quite quickly after failing on this a few months ago! Stamina is definatly getting better, now for the full 'Larger Than Life' project! :-)

Finally!! After so long of trying, it went after 30mins in todays session :-) Was getting really close but then cut my finger on the righthand thumb catch so didnt have many goes left - but pulled it out the bag just 2 goes after that! So pysched, techniqally my 2nd 8a but this felt much harder than 'Boy Racer'. This is by far one of the hardest thing ive ever climbed! Cheers Pete for telling my about this line and for the beta :-) Update: used a heel which makes it abit easier - probably more like 7c+/8a.

Only just managed, right at the end of the session when tierd! Cut my finger on the small 2 finger pocket - may be too small for adult size fingers. Needs a repeat...

First go today after retrying the moves :-) First ascent - tried a bit last session but was getting tierd! Good training link up

Took a few goes, tricky!

Took about an hour. Such a cool problem, so glad to climb whilst im 15 :) and first font 8a!!!

Hardest first ascent to date :) didn't take that long as I had done most of the moves from previous sessions!

Should have on-sighted but went about 3rd go. I also found a small 'bloc style' overhanging wall with a very hard line up the middle (near to this) but will have to save for next time :)

3rd V8 on-sight :) Nice climb, almost did there and back which would be about V9!

2nd V8 on-sight, but so almost fell off (cutloose on two crimps, span around facing away from the rock and then campused to the finish!) Good problem :)

So pleased to do this :) after taking so many falls from the last move!! Sit start moves are very awkward (must start with your bum on the floor) and eliminating the large foothold and the possitive sidepull deffinatly add to the problem... Not sure on the grade as it was VERY greasy!

Took a few goes... abit awkward!

On-sight :) Found the sit start moves easy but the following moves abit harder, nice problem dispit the landing!

Awsume (but quite hard) move to the lip!! first move to the mega crimp dosnt really add much, second ascent?

Finished as for Bourton Direct (on the high pinch) this time: deffinatly feels much harder!!

Took a few goes, scary last move if your short and have to jump!

Amazing problem! Really like the hard last move lunge for the jug (although very fustrating!) Me and hamish both dabbed the rock on the left a little but dosn't change the problem...

Brilliant! About 3rd go after working the moves :) used a different sequence for the crux, involving upside down heel hooks!

Awsome but scary last move lunge for victory! did first go after doing Life of Fyfe :)

Nice traverse, did quite quickly - did low left sit but was told this finished up 'Andys Wall'.

Much harder than the original AD traverse - only just caught the final jug with a hugh powerscream!

Once again much harder than the orignal DA reverse - climbed with an extra helping of powerscream!

First ascent, took about 15mins. Easier than Fish and Chips but still very nice :)

About second go but done 'Fish and Chips' maney times before. Love the cutloose and campus moves on the lip! Felt harder than 'Fish and Chips' - more like 7b.

Only just managed - move into the pocket is hard! (hit the boulder mat a bit on the cut loose) 2nd ascent...

Retro flash :) Nice evening sun as i toped out - amazing!

2nd v10 :) nice problem - definatly harder than Taylor Made. Hit the edge of the boulder mat a bit when coming out the roof! Only just managed, 2nd ascent?

Did this properly this time - starting on the far left, traversing past pebbles and slopers, into and along the break, around the nose(good rest) and round the other side to finnish allong the crack :) couldn't have gone wrong...hard though!

Nice problem used the cross over method, would have been my second V10 - but it's been downgraded!! oh well still pleased to get :)

Good climb, took bad fall "popping" of the small crimp but climbed easily today :)

Repeat

Great moves! Definatly adds a lot to the problem making the last moves desperate. Hard for the grade? Only time will tell...

Tried this before, felt easy today...

Nice moves :)

Retro Flash :)

Nice traverse with awkward sit start.

Repeat - almost got extension!

Amazing problem, took most of 1session, and so pleased to have climbed this whilst im still 14 - first font 7c+!!!!

on-sight really good enjoyable traverse:D getting really close to a massice project of linking this into "Starboard Traverse"!!

Awsome find! Really good moves (note to self - shit landing). Not sure about the grade. Deffinatly an "extra edge" with the top out. Good effort for the first ascentonist.

Think this has been done before...but still good climbing on crimps with hard last moves :) future classic?

Retro Flash.

Retro Flash.

Last section on crimps and flakes above unercuts is harder and scarier with really bad landing...falling off really isn't an option!

2nd go, almost did static (with really high feet)!

Love the slap to the top, but didn't top out because it was to sandy/crumbly...hard though!

On-sighted :) nice problem.

Awsume first ascent :) razor crimp is really bad for your skin, not sure on the grade as i have really small fingers may be harder/easier...?

Did as stated in guild book - starting on the right and traverseing to top out on the left...still quite hard!

Repeat second go in really greasy conditions.

Second go after missing a hold!!

Really pumpy!!

Nice eliminate :) tried last summer, please to have this problem cleared up...hard though!

Finally managed to get this thing done!! Tried last summer and got to the last move (a lot harder and greasier after the pumpy traverse), pleased to finaly climb after a while of trying. First ascent!! :)

First ascent of this really fun roof :) took me about half an hour and not a clue about the grade could be easier or harder...needs checking/a repeate. Named due to the smell from the cafe...

Took about 40mins, about v8, but still nice problem and love the highball finish!!! A bit wet though, dosn't seem to get very much sun...

Defo much harder this way around as the crux is right at the end!! Still good, pumpy problem and a bueatiful day, 2nd V9 :)

Technical climbing up the arete, but is very highball, wouldn't recomend topping out!

Nice climb but ruined by smearing on the right wall. Project (100% Pain) is same problem but without right wall - defo a lot harder.

First Ascent. Awsome problem with hard move from mono to low side pull below the bulge, but mabey a bit soft for the grade, V7/V8...

Great classic problem, crag was quite wet so had to dry some holds, foot brushed boulder mat on a slap to the pocket. Almost got the reverse.

First font 7a on-sight outdoor!! Had to dry and chalk holds first, soft.

Cool moves on smears.

Once again....very rough slopers!!

Really cool move from sloper and dink to the ledge,soft.

Hard...and very skin thashing.

V7 in the north wales guide book, but nice problem.

Awsome move into the ring mono, sent in VERY windy conditions: had to put rocks on the boulder mats to stop them blowing away!!

Nice, hard, pumpy problem, sort of an easier version of The Daddy (font 7c) and pleased to get whilst I'm still 13! Sent 1st go after trying the moves for a bit.

Sent about 3rd ish go but have all ready done The Full AD Traverse.

Cool problem, love the ludge to the slopey lip.

So close to on-sight!! aarrrr!! had the last hold in my hand but swang of and missed the boulder mat resulting in injured ankle. Sent second go.

Cool problem, should of on-sighted but went second go. Soft

Awsome problem, felt a bit soft - probibly because my hands are so small!

Nice classic problem, but finished on big sidepull.

Finally sent this! My first font 7c outdoor, not sure if this is first ascent because it's listed as a project on esoteric bouldering but seems to have an ascent on 8a.nu? Over all about 3 sessions to get this: 1 for each traverse and 1 to link them. Although very pumpy and soft, i'm so pleased to send this before my 14th birthday!

WOHO!! Very pleased to get this, my first 'proper' font 7b+ as this felt harder than A.D into Andy's Wall and The Full A.D Traverse. Quite scary last move when pumped (and high).

Bordering 7c! Felt pretty soft for 7b+ and sent quite quickly, but nice problem if slightly eliminate.

Nice problem, did v5 and v6 version, 1st go. But soon after it started raining so had to leave.

Very Happy! Great dyno, couldn't topout though because is a little overgrown.

Good problem, felt more like V7 than V6 but the pockets were a bit greasy and I didn't use jug on left.

Nice problem, managed to topout.

Amazing problem, love the final slap for the top.

Should of on-sighted but skin was wreched and had a split tip!!!

Powerful problem with a very polished foothold at the start but the smaller footholds aren't so bad.

Blind climbing, just right of Andy's Wall. This problem is highball so I would recomend a boulder mat.

First Ascent! Quite a pumpy problem. Third font 7b+ outdoor, or maybe just hard 7b.

Second go, great dyno. Classic.

First Ascent! Quite a pumpy problem. Third font 7b+ outdoor, or maybe just hard 7b.

Nice problem with very sharp crimps and a big finishing move.

Great classic problem with a lot of campusing. Finished going up, first font 7b on grit.

Redpionted JUST, good problem.

Great powerful problem. My second font 7b+ outdoor. I would recommend a boulder mat because finish is highball.

Very powerful with technical moves towards the end. PUMPY. My first Font 7b+ outdoor.

Feels impossibe intill you find the holds, I would recomend a boulder mat as it is highball.

My first font 7b outdoor. I think this is the best problem on the crag.

Did on second go, but I have all ready done The Half BC Traverse. My first 7a+ outdoor.

Climbed this problem on-sight. I would recommend a boulder mat because it is highball. Great Problem.

A Great problem, gets pumpy towards the end. My first 7a outdoor.