El Canalillo de la Mari

Amazing, three styles of climbing in one climb (chimney, face and slabby). Tried it first on a bad day with new belaypartner. Took the whipper on the crux moves, which I kinda let go of/got too scared to think. Hasn't happened in a while. Second time tried it toprope with David as first climb of the day, dayflashed it. Then did it on lead. I found a way to get around the foothold that is getting too slippery (still usable) by going up left and stand on the block, then traverse into the crux using a waterdroplet foot and dancing around the gaston-turns-sidepull. Oh yeah and the bolt at the crux is not where you want it, the whip was about 6m. Good fall though, thanks Basti. Everybody talks about 16 draws but I think we only used 9 plus anchors. Some at the bottom belong to the route on the left side and give more ropedrag.

Brilliant stemming, chimneying and finger locks. Basically trad w/ bolts. 70m rope is barely enough.

Rolig!