Billy Butter

Used to be 7c+/8a but never clean 8a. Umeå's testpiece no.1 for many years. Put up by the Swedish sport-legend Johan Luhr in the early 90's. Stood as 7c+/8a but got adjusted to clean 7c+ after a few repeats. But it took 10 years after FA for us to manage a repeat of this ape-index-depending roof that is just past horizontal. Demands reeaaach, body tension, fingers and no fear for big swings close to the ground with lots of rope out. Has one of the best name stories in the country which includet threats, an attorney and an article in aftonbladet. Too long and too delicate to write here - ask a local!

Added by David Blad