Saghatten

A good route on rock with sea cliff character. P1: Follow corner system to its natural end, then traverse left. Stance at bottom of small pillar. P2: Excellent left-slanting dihedral. Traverse right after roof onto shelf. P3: Nice dihedral, passing under a large roof rightwards. P4: Hard moves through a messy section leads into a right-slanting dihedral. Stance on good shelf under roof. P5: Traverse right, aim for an obvious overhang. An excellent slanting dihedral follows, exit left onto slabs in stead of venturing right when opportunity presents.

A note from first-ascensionists: we did not spend a great deal of time cleaning this route. It retains a rather chossy character until it has seen more traffic. Pitch 1: Start at the obvious flake, keep to the left of the blank section of rock for 50m. Belay at bottom of left-slanting gully with blocks. Pitch 2: Follow the gully up and left, pass a scary looking giant block (careful) to a nice tree (birch) under an obvious roof, 25m. Pitch 3: Go up the left side of the tree, and take a few steps right after the bulge to enter a nice (but a little loose) hand-crack. Aim for the right-hand side of the roof. Place a bomber 0.3, maneuver the roof, step left on the slab and climb for 4 more meters to a nice belay shelf, 30m. Pitch 4: Climb the dihedral for 3-4 meters, step right and follow the blocky but fun climb straight up. Aim for the left-hand side of the tiny roof and traverse right under the big roof above it. Belay from tree at top, 30m. Walk-off is easy scramble down the north-west side.