Varazze

Varazze, located in a stunning natural reserve, is a prime destination for bouldering enthusiasts. 💎 🍁 The best climbing season is from September to May, when the fallen leaves carpet the ground and the boulders are dry and almost shining. During this period, light and shadow play across the sectors, offering varied climbing conditions throughout the day. Summer is typically too hot for climbing, although some boulders remain accessible and free from vegetation. 🧗 The climbing area is part of Parco del Beigua, one of Europe's few geological parks, known for its incredible geodiversity. The boulders here are primarily composed of metamorphic rocks such as serpentinite, metabasite, and metagabbro, offering compact surfaces with good friction and a variety of holds including slopers, notches, and rare pockets. The unique geological formation, influenced by the Alpine orogeny, provides a rich and diverse climbing experience. Bouldering in Varazze features problems marked with black arrows at the start, making it easier to follow the lines. However, these signs can fade due to rain or stream action. The grades, though subjective, have been refined over the years with input from numerous climbers. 🌲 The area offers more than just climbing. Situated just a few kilometers from the sea, visitors can enjoy beach activities and surfing in Varazze. In summer, nearby lakes attract tourists, although some sectors can become overgrown and infested with ticks due to the presence of roe deer. The region is also well-equipped with restaurants and accommodation options. 🚙 Accessing the bouldering area is straightforward. If you're coming from the Genova-Ventimiglia highway (A10), exit at Celle Ligure for areas near Alpicella, or at Varazze for quicker access. Follow the specific directions for each sector, such as Eden, Waterworld, Disneyland, Hollywood, Lilliput, Up There, Potala, Castellaro, Harem, Samsara, La Cava, and Futurama.