Modřín

The Elbe Sandstone region has long been a climbing paradise, known for its imposing sandstone walls and iconic towers. For decades, traditional and sport climbers have explored its breathtaking formations, pushing the limits of free climbing. But in recent years, bouldering has taken its rightful place in the area's rich history. With over 6,000 problems established in the past 30 years, the Elbe Sandstone has become a world-class bouldering destination—and Modřín is one of its hidden gems. Located just 3 km from Sněžník, Modřín offers a diverse and extensive bouldering playground nestled beneath a dramatic 2 km-long sandstone cliff. Here, you'll find a wide variety of boulder problems, from delicate slabs and powerful overhangs to highball test pieces that demand both strength and mental focus. When it comes to pads, Magic hood, Central jih and Central offer good landings and one bid pad could be enough. But for the problems in Buttermilk, Rocklands, Pad stěnami you will need at least 2 pads to climb nicely. For families with kids, we recommend heading to Central jih, Magic hood and Central crag. Modřín's unique rock quality, stunning forest setting, and rich climbing history make it a must-visit destination for anyone seeking adventure on perfect sandstone. Modřín boasts over 1,000 boulder problems spread across seven distinct sectors: 📍 Rocklands – Classic problems on excellent rock. 📍 Buttermilk – Fast-drying, high-quality boulders. 📍 Magic Hood – Technical and shaded, ideal for hot days. 📍 Central & Central South – Home to many must-try lines. 📍 Pod Stěnami – Steep and varied terrain. 📍 Za Dogou – Secluded problems with great landings. The siliceous Turonian sandstone in Modřín is one of the hardest in the region, providing excellent grip and durability. Problems are marked with small arrows, and sit-starts are indicated by an arrow with a horizontal line defining the hand placement. To preserve the rock, always brush off chalk and tick marks before leaving, and be mindful of fragile features—and never climb on wet of damp rock! HISTORY 📖 Bouldering in Modřín began in 1998, with local climbers from Jílové making the first ascents. The first known problem, Prvotina (6C), was established in the Buttermilk sector, setting the stage for decades of development. The real turning point came in 2007, when an open-air bouldering competition in today's Central sector ignited a surge of interest. More climbers began exploring the area, cleaning boulders, and developing new lines. This momentum led to the publication of the first comprehensive guidebook, BOULDERTOPO Sněžník / Modřín (Suchý, Beneš, 2014), which helped establish Modřín as a key part of the region’s bouldering scene. Many dedicated climbers contributed to the area's development, including Jaroslav Ježek, Ondřej Beneš, Martin Čermák, Zdeněk Suchý, Martin Jungling, Lukáš Skála, Tomáš Skála, Rosťa Štefánek, Štěpán Pochman, and the Rock Stars from Tisá. Their passion and effort turned Modřín into the bouldering haven it is today. RULES & ETHICS – PROTECTING MODŘÍN As part of a Protected Landscape Area, Modřín’s beauty and integrity depend on responsible climbing practices. Please follow these guidelines: ✔ No climbing on wet/damp rock!! The rock will break. ✔ No fires & respect temporary closures (e.g., nesting birds). ✔ Park only in designated areas; no driving on closed roads. ✔ Do not modify the rock (no chipping or creating holds). ✔ Leave no trace—bury waste & pack out trash. ✔ Clean tick marks using natural-bristle brushes. ✔ Stay on existing trails and keep noise levels low. ✔ No burners or aggressive tools that damage the rock. By following these simple rules, we can ensure the longevity of Modřín’s bouldering for future generations. LOGISTICS & BEST SEASONS Modřín is accessible from multiple directions: 🚗 West: Park below Turistická chata in Tisá. 🚗 North: Park along the Tisá–Sněžník road. 🚗 East: Use the Anglický parčík sector parking. 🚗 South: Park at Ptačí rybník, or centrally in Sněžník. While climbing is possible year-round, the best conditions are in autumn. The real bouldering season runs from March to November. Fastest drying sectors: Buttermilk, Pod Stěnami, Rocklands. Cool summer options: Central, Magic Hood. Best winter choices: Buttermilks, Bahratal, and the Elbe Valley. If Modřín is too wet, the Bahratal microclimate often provides dry conditions when the rest of the area is damp. RENTALS & GUIDING Need gear? Rent crash pads, chalk bags, brushes, and more in Tisá. Printed topos are also available. Visit www.czechbouldering.com for details. Looking for a guided tour? Our experienced local climbers can take you to hidden gems and classic lines, adjusting the trip to your skill level. We provide gear, transport, and accommodation. Learn more at www.easyclimbing.cz. This topo is provided to you by Ondřej Beneš, member of Czech Bouldering team. Our team is the author of printed Topos for Sněžník and Modřín.