The Official 27 Crags Blog

Here we have news, updates and miscellaneous stories from the creators and maintainers of 27crags.com.

Robinson and Payne win Rock Rodeo 2013

Published almost 2 years ago by Alexandra Kahn.

After a week of cool temps in Hueco Tanks, the day of the Rock Rodeo was scheduled and it was said to be the warmest rodeo yet. The competitor's strategy- get to the hardest climbs first while the temps were cool and attempt to avoid the sun soaked walls for the remainder of the day in favor of the caves and roofs. Unfortunately the reigning champion, Daniel Woods was unable to make it to the competition due to a conflicting trip to Japan, so Paul Robinson had to duke it out with Jon Cardwell, local, Sam Davis, and fellow prAna team mate, Jimmy Webb.

Rock Rodeo

The day of the competition began at 7am at the Hueco Rock Ranch where Fred Nicole, a true bouldering legend and pioneer, was cooking and serving pancakes for all of the rodeo's participants. After the competitors had gotten their fill of Fred's send cakes, they were piled into shuttles and whisked off to East Mountain or North Mountain, depending on their category. The competition began at 8am and they had until 5:30pm to turn in their scorecards.

Fred Nicole cooking

In the female open category, Angie Payne fought hard to claim her title against close second, Nina Williams. Angie was able to send The Butterpumper V11/8A, Crimping Christ on the Cross V10/7C+ and Hobbit with a Boner V8/7B+ and Nina climbed Sunshine V11/8A and The Butterpumper V11/8A. The female's available climbing list seemed a little too difficult as Angie, who won the event, was only able to complete three of the six climbs needed and some of the open division females could only complete one climb on the list.

Until the week of the competition, none of the male's harder open climbs had been tried by any of the competitors except Sam Davis, who had already completed the majority of the open climbs list. Paul was fortunate enough to come a few days before the competition and get on some of the newer V13/8B's and V14/8B+'s on East Mountain. Jimmy and Jon were not so lucky and it was quite impressive to see them try and succeed at climbing almost all new climbs during the day of the competition.

Paul, who had climbed Yellow Diamonds V13/8B earlier this week and had hoped it would be in the rodeo was displeased to find out that it had broken and most likely no longer went at the same grade- regardless of the fact that it was on the Rodeo list at V13/8B. Unsure of what climbs to do to ensure a win, he jumped on three climbs he had never tried before, Cut to the Quick, The Tax Gatherer, and Ayanamei Right- all V12/8A+. Luckily, he was able to complete all three, and also managed to resend Blood of a Young Wolf V14/8B+, Bastard in a Basket V13/8B and Phantom Limb V12/8A+.

Paul sending Blood of a Young Wolf

Sam Davis put up a tough fight and captured one of the highest rated points of the event, Neon Desert V14/8B+, as well as Cut to the Quick and Phantom Limb, both V12/8A+, Le Chninkel 8A and two others. Jimmy Webb came in third, flashing Phantom Limb V12/8A+, and sending Le Chninkel V11/8A, Full Service V10/7C+, Shake and Bake V11/8A, Power of Landjäger V11/8A, Ayanamei Right V12/8A+.

Jimmy flashing Phantom Limb

check out this video of Paul's competition day:

Aaron Schneider » Great write up! almost 2 years ago
Mirko Caballero » Nice write-up! The Rock Rodeo was awesome! I participated for the first time... over 1 year ago
Refresh comments!
Log in or sign up in order to add a comment!
Climbing is dangerous and not always permitted. By using this site you are agreeing to our terms of use.
feedback