Less than 2 weeks ago, Paul Robinson made the 5th ascent of Jaws II (5.15a) in Rumney, NH. This was Paul's first 5.15 and elevated him to a small list of people who have climbed both V15 and 5.15- this list includes Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, Daniel Woods, Dave Graham and Alex Megos.
Since returning from his trip out east November 5, Paul has made a one day ascent of Sea of Green V13/8B and two day ascents of The Grey V14/8B+ and White Noise V15/8C traverse, all in Wild Basin, a climbing area in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado.
Looks like prime bouldering season is upon the citizens of Colorado and we will be sure to see many more impressive ascents come out of this state soon!
Cambridge, Massachusetts local finally put the finishing touches on Jaws II (5.15a/9a+) in Rumney, New Hampshire yesterday, making it the fourth ascent of this route. Originally named Jaws and given 5.14c by Dave Graham years ago, the climb has since broken, adding a second crux, and being reclimbed and confirmed as 5.15a by Vasya Vorotnikov, Mike Foley and Daniel Woods.
Congrats to Andrew Palmer on his long term project and his first 5.15!
Check out the last minute clip I filmed of him trying Jaws II the day before he sent.
Ashima Shiraishi may be only 12 years old, but she climbs every bit like a champion adult climber. Not only is she smart, but she knows what works for her body and what beta will be best for her. A few days ago, Ashima arrived in Boulder, Colorado to climb with Paul Robinson and his girlfriend Alex Kahn. The duo, who filmed her last year in South Africa for Chasing Winter, are filming a piece on her for Evolv, her shoe sponsor. The threesome have been friends for a couple years and Paul and Alex have been trying to convince Ashima to come to Colorado to climb crimpy classics like The Automator and Jade. On her first day here, she was taken to Upper Upper Chaos where she climbed on some of the newly established boulders and tried Paul's new project, Wheel of Chaos V14/8B+, with him (photos seen below).
Having now only climbed three days in RMNP, Ashima has already climbed Sunspot Left V8/9, flashed Potato Chip and Tommy's Arete both V7, and made an impressive 2-day ascent of The Automator V13/8B.
Ashima is the second female to climb The Automator; Angie Payne climbed the line in 2010, which made it the first female ascent and the first American female to climb V13. Ashima is the youngest climber to have done The Automator, boy or girl, and certainly has made one of the quickest ascents of anyone.
Ashima has almost two more weeks left in Boulder, Colorado and it will be great to see what she accomplishes while she is there. Stay tuned for the upcoming Evolv film of this talented climber.
Matt Wilder is one of the few true triple threats around (trad, sport, boulder). He climbs outside and competes inside and is the husband to Sandy Wilder and father to a little dude named Bayes. Matt just released a video of himself and Pat Goodman attempting some trad projects in the area of New River Gorge, West Virginia, so check it out!
With Witness the Fitness 8C once again deemed broken and impossible to climb, Paul Robinson set out to find a new 8C/V15 project in the Ozark Mountains of Arkansas. A few years ago, Paul was shown a roof project and this year that project became Daniel Woods' Child's Play. Paul was able to get the second ascent of Child's Play but saw the potential for a sit start. Today, after 5 days of effort, Paul was finally able to put all the moves together and send the line from the sit, calling it The New Chapter and giving it the grade of 8C/V15.
Robinson says the sit start adds a 8A+/V12 into Child's Play, which goes at 8B/V13. He describes the line as "super powerful and pumpy" with "bad feet and lots of foot swinging."