On May 28, On the Circuit, a film featuring Daniel Woods, Dave Graham, Paul Robinson and Carlo Traversi releases on 27crags/films.
The movie is filmed by Carlo Traversi, Paul Robinson and Cameron Maier, and edited by Carlo Traversi. A description of the film is as follows, "In the Spring of 2012, four of America's Best Boulderers converged in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado in search of something new. Follow along as Dave Graham, Paul Robinson, Carlo Traversi, and Daniel Woods, establish and repeat some of the world's most difficult boulder problems that surround the now infamous Bear Lake Road. On The Circuit was filmed and produced by the athletes themselves, giving you an exclusive chance to see first hand the culture of development that defines and progresses our sport."
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Check out the trailer for the film below:
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Check out this 4 page spread with photos and video of wonder child, Ashima Shiraishi!
http://www.nytimes.com/2012/05/13/sports/ashima-shiraishi-11-conquers-difficult-bouldering-climbs.html?ref=sports
Page one says, "This summer, she will accompany a group of American climbers for an expedition in South Africa, where she will be the only child climber in the bunch." The American group the reporter is referring to is Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods, Carlo Traversi, Griffin Whiteside, Courtney Sanders, Mary Mecklenburg, and myself. Together with Carlo Traversi, PRAK Media will be producing its third movie and Ashima Shiraishi will be the female lead.
Stay tuned for more details!
Mr Woods has finally ticked off the project that went by the name of The Mission Impossible. It is located next to the famous route called Intersteller Overdrive at Clear Creek Canyons Wall of the 90s. The route was bolted by Jay Samuelson and here are Daniels word describing the route:
"The climb begins with a 4 move v4 mantle to a flat jug ledge. From here you execute a 5 move v6/7 slab section using 2 and 3 finger incut quarter pad crimps. this deposits you into the full pad flat rail rest with smears. You then begin the first crux which is a 15 move v12 boulder problem. This section involves very slopey holds with non existent smears for feet. The angle of the wall is near vertical for the first few moves then kicks back to slightly overhung. There is a jug after this section allowing you to rest, then for the next 3 bolts you climb a 12b section. After this you have the final boulder problem before the chains. This problem is a 10 move v11. The end of this crux was the nail biter for me. You have to take a half pad incut crimp with the right hand and do a long lock off with the left hand to a finger nail size crimp. You then come into a quarter pad sloping edge with the right hand and do a massive high step heel hook with the right foot on the edge next to your right hand. From here you have to rock over and mantle up doing a long lock off to a quarter pad incut edge, match this and go to a flat rail with the right hand. You then match this hold and go to a jug, clip the chains and top out. It took me 2 days just to do this mantle move and if it was too hot, I could not even hold my body weight off of these holds. The angle of the wall at the top is slightly overhanging, so the pump factor stays on you."
Courtesy of Courtney Sanders
Daniel started trying out the project at the beginning of April this year. During that time the conditions ranged from 10 degrees Centigrade to 15 degrees (50 to 60 Fahrenheit). During that time it was fairly quick to make progress on the route and he was able to do the moves at the start and the middle section. The project that is now called Mission Impossible and it is very technical and condition dependent. Daniel spent six to seven days working on it before finishing it off. He states that it is the hardest sport route he has climbed so far and proposes the grade of 9a or 5.14d. "It felt physically and mentally harder then Jaws 2, and maybe it could be 9a+ or 15a, but also continues and says that repeaters can decide.
Congrats behalf of me and the rest of the 27 Crags Team.
"edit" Unlike Daniel first informed the climb got the name of Mission Impossible"
According to Yamada Wataru's ticklist he has managed to tick of one of Japan's hardest sport routes. The name is Karachi and is located on the west side of Japan in area called Bicchu. The route is around 30 meters long and has crux at the start and also at the upper part of the climb.
Courtesy of Yamada Wataru
Yamada is 27 years old of age, he did five years of bouldering, and now he has had more weight on sport climbing for around four years. He also enjoys his occasional bit of trad.
It was bolted by Sakai Manabu in 2004 and got it's first ascent by the famous Japanese climber Yuji Hirayama in 2005.
Since then it has had some repeats, young Matsushima Akito made the 2nd one in 2006 and then in 2007 Nakahara Sakae and Sugita Masatoshi ticked it off. Five years passed and nobody managed to climb the route and about a week ago it was Yamada's turn to nail it and at the same time manage to fulfill his target for the season.
Courtesy of Yamada Wataru
Bicchu is a massive limestone climbing area, it has more then 300 routes from 4's up to 9a's, so it's a huge playground for anybody who enjoys sport climbing. The weather in the region can be humid, so it is recommend to have some spare time if planning a climbing trip there.
Congrats Yamada on behalf of me and the 27 Crags Team.
Tyler Landman who is currently a resident of Middletown in Connecticut has managed to tick off one of the harder project that has been lying around in the area.
Phillip Schaal reports on his blog that
"Ty has been trying a project in CT which might be one of the hardest in the North East. He was very close and then the weather shifted. Temps went from 50's to the 80's. We were thinking that anything that might have gone down would have to wait until next fall. But on this day something changed. Conditions went from a jungle feeling to a cold windy fall day".
The problem has not gotten a name yet and it is in the 8B+ range.
Source: Phillip Schaal
