Description

The crag is located 20 km north of Stockholm and is nicely situated and easy accessible in a small forest area right next to a single-family housing area, slightly east of Norrvikens southern part.
Today the crag is fully developed and there are about thirty bolted routes of varying difficulties. The rock is mostly of compact and good quality granite, but many routes are no more than 5-8 meters high and sometimes you wonder if you shouldn't have brought the crash pad instead. Although on Järnpinneväggen there are a couple of routes that are around 12 meters high and with a great overhanging compact clean-cut face that are quite appealing.

Many of the short overhanging routes up on the ledge at Övre väggen are bouldery and hard despite an easy grade. Be prepared that these short overhanging routes might feel far more difficult than the grade says. The benefit is that despite the shortness of the routes you still get quite a bit of interesting climbing. The environment at the Övre väggen is quite nice.

There are some easy slab routes suitable for beginners at Östväggen that are quite ok and these are around 10 meters high.

All in all the crag is a good and welcome addition to the somewhat limited climbing opportunities north of Stockholm.

Environment:
South, southwest and east facing. Somewhat shaded by trees but depending on where you are it can still be quite sunny. Övre väggen has the nicest location high up on a ledge. It might be good to bring a brush as it occasionally can be a bit messy on the walls to the right.

History

In the guidebook from 1989 Törnskogsklippan is mentioned as place for top roping and bouldering. However, the first reported routes where done in 1989 by Lars Heijkenskjöld and Etienne Friedrich, but they were not published untill 1996. Those routes were mainly traditional routes made along the most obvious formations. The only thing sticking out throughout the 90s was Krakatau (7b) made by Björn Kihlström and Hasse Häggqvist in 1992. During the beginning of the 2010s Anders Grahne and Andreas Andersson started an extensive development of the crag by setting up a lot of bolted sport routes. And it is thanks to them this relatively small crag today is quite well visited.