Description

The area is currently the biggest sport climbing crag in Montenegro, with a height of up to 35 meters. Although the crag has multiple types of climbing, the most appealing and aesthetic characteristic of the area is tufa climbing.

The area currently has around 80 routes up to 8b+ set up by Klemen Becan and a huge potential for the new crazy and easy routes. The rock band is 250 meters in length and a concave shape. Large parts of the crag face north-west, enabling climbing on hot sunny days until 2/3 pm. The farthest left side of the crag faces south-west and it is possible to have nice climbing days there on sunny winter days. The main, highly developed crag overlooks the right side of the valley. However, there is also huge potential for new lines on the left side of the valley. "Dementia Wall", the newest sector of the crag faces south-east and is currently being developed, enabling good climbing especially in the hot days.

The best season for climbing in the area is spring and fall. In the summer, if the humidity is not so high, it is possible to try most of the routes which are under the shade. During the winter months, due to the increasing number of rainy days and high potential for seepage from tufas, it is hard to find dry routes.

The area has a huge advantage in terms of access, with its close distance (8,5 km) to the capital city of Podgorica. Hence, accommodation opportunities, ease of approach and many places to shop/eat make the climbing trips easy and effortless. It is also an awesome cool down activity in the summer months to swim in the pure waters of Moraca river after climbing. The lake is just on 100 meter Podgorica side of the bridge over the river. You may walk there either from right or left side of the bridge.

Many lines are waiting to be bolted. If you want to set up a new route, please first contact to local climbers/us.

Special thanks to Anja Becan (photos), Klemen Becan, Srdjan Lecic, Valentin Sattek and Jack Clarkson for their valuable contribution to this on-line guidebook.

History

Smokovac started to be developed in 2016. Founders of the Outdoor Club Podgorica (OCP) Vanja Pejovic, Ivan Lakovic, Milos Pavicevic, Bojan Boskovic and Novica Cupic discovered this awesome crag so close to capital city, Podgorica. When they first came to the area, they recognized few routes with homemade bolts and big run outs between them set up by unknown climbers. The club and local climbers started bolting/rebolting and opened most of the routes in the crag.

Then some other climbers such as Klemen Becan, Stefan Lieb Lind, Andrej Grmovsek, Valentin Sattek and others have visited the area and set up new routes.