Description

This overhanging 12 meters high and around 70 meters wide crag is easily accessible and peacefully located in an urban wooded area next to a walkway about 1 km south of Skogås commuter train station. Sjötorpsberget has many well bolted easier and medium hard sport routes located side by side, which gives great possibilities to do many routes in a short time, which is good if you only have a few hours to spend. Many of the routes are quite sporty, overhanging and fun.

Solid and fine rock is divided into broken and sometimes loose parts. Anchors on the left part of the wall are quite easily accessible from above. Anchors on the right side are more inconvenient to reach.
The crag is south facing. Fairly sunny and open at the left part of the wall (warm in springtime), but more in the shade on the right side. The crag dries fairly quickly, but slower on the right side. Nice view from the top.

I would say it's quite ok bringing the kids to this crag as the ground is fairly flat and there are no cars around. Much of all the garbage below the left part of the crag has been cleared away, however, some smaller pieces of glass can still be found.

History

The first reported route was made in 1975 by Mats Hårdefeldt and Lars Svadängs. A couple of years later Christer Åstrand and others made some trad routes along a couple of obvious formations. Some years later Claes Jelinek and Michael Stimmer pushed the level up a bit when they made a couple of steeper routes. But it wasn't until John Luhr started developing the excellent middle section by bolting up some harder overhanging lines (including "I have a dream" as the jewel in the crown) that people started to talk about this crag. Later on, some renovation was done by bultkommitén. In 2010 Mikael Widerberg spotted great possibilities for some easy bolted routes on the left part of the wall. Rose garden is a fine example of that. Mikael also took the opportunity to develop the rest of the left wall which resulted in a couple of climbs that were quite quirky and unique.