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Lord of Chaos SDS, 8A
Added by Ooron Schneider
1 ascent logged
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Ooron Schneider
Ooron Schneider
FIRST ASCENT
2021-01-12
Red point
YES! Roper had tried the bottom moves yearsssss ago but I dismissed it at the time as both silly and too hard. Since then, it lingered as a side note in the back of my mind, as the original has always been my all time favorite boulder. Half the holds seem to be facing the wrong direction, on an at-first-glance impossibly steep angle, yet the trickery makes it work. It never seemed to be the right time: how long does the slot take to stop seeping? When am I up for the hike? Am I in good enough shape? Pads? Came out with Kory, Jeremy x2 and Chill but only had enough energy to suss the rad bottom sequence. While not a tight weather window in general, was my last day off before a string of nights that would end in more precipitation. So. Fucking. Good. It now feels complete and is unquestionably my all time favorite with a proper sit start, incredible sequence all by itself and a brilliant block. I abhor slash grades but probably is legit 10/11, will give it 8A until someone gives it the downgrade ;-) Send of the original on 2015-5-3: This problem is outstanding. Fantastic movement with crazy double toe-cam drop knees, amazing holds, immaculate stone and the only line on the boulder in a beautiful setting. Props to Roper on a stellar FA. The sit moves obviously go and will add some pump factor. Somewhere in the hard 9 soft 10 range. Gotta find the names of the problem in the corridor and the white face lines!