Frank Slide - The River King

1

2

3

4

5

6

The River King 1 / 11

1

Noodle left, 6B

V3ish. Sit-start under arete using low finger-jug on the left, and right-hand on the left start-hold of "Magic Carp direct". Move up and left, topping out by pressing up and left onto the descent ramp.
2

Noodle right, 6B

V3ish. Start as per "Noodle left", but head right after the first few moves, into the topout of "Magic Carp".
3

Magic Carp Direct, 6B+

Sit/crouch-start using pair of obvious, large edges.. Head straight up. (FA Mark Derksen, 2014)
4

Magic Carp, 6B+

Stand-start with a jug in the speckled dihedral. Climb left on side-pulls, and head up the more solid looking face, with a few tricky moves to the top. (FA Mark Derksen, 2014)
5

Magic Carp Right, 6B+

V4ish. Start as per "Magic Carp", but head directly up the compression feature, after the first few moves.
6

The Angler, 5+

V1+. Stand-start just right of "Magic Carp", using a left-hand crimp at head-height on the slab, and a lower right-hand sloper. Move up and right, along the leaning slab. Top out right.

1

2

3

4

5

The River King 2 / 11

1

The Fisher King sit-start, 7A+

V7+. Sit-start using two obvious, low jug-edges. Move up and right to gain the long crimp-rail, then up and left to the mantle in the scoop.
2

The Fisher King, 7A

V6. Stand-start using good edges/jugs near arete. Move up and left to a long, thin crimp rail, then way up and left to a jug-edge over the lip. A tricky mantle into the scoop follows.
3

Pilgrim's Progress, 7A

Start left of the descent ramp hop-off on good LH and RH sidepulls. Make a few moves leftwards until you are able to get out to the arete and tip back right onto the slab with a crimp. Tricky! (FA Mark Derksen 2014) EDIT 2015: a key crimp has broken leaving the grade or viability of this route in question.
4

Noodle left, 6B

V3ish. Sit-start under arete using low finger-jug on the left, and right-hand on the left start-hold of "Magic Carp direct". Move up and left, topping out by pressing up and left onto the descent ramp.
5

Noodle right, 6B

V3ish. Start as per "Noodle left", but head right after the first few moves, into the topout of "Magic Carp".

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

The River King 3 / 11

1

The River King, 6B

Stand-start, matched on huge edge/sloper. Head up and slightly right, through huge, sloping shelves. (FA Mark Derksen, 2015)
2

Pantless, 4

Sit-start matched on the perfect ledge. Move up into solid side-pulls and ledges all the way up. (FA Mark Derksen 2014)
3

Bait and Switch, 7A

V6ish. Sit-start matched on low, large edge. Traverse low and right, joining "The Tempest".
4

The Fisher's Mark, 5

V1. Start on a good, high edge. Exit either left (into Pantless) or right (better). (FA Trent Hoover, 2017)
5

The Tempest, 6B

Sit start in pit with double underclings. Use great edges and side-pulls to get to a mantle that is not a gimme. (FA Mark Derksen, 2015)
6

Hook, Line, and Sinker, 6B+

V3ish. Sit-start as per "Fisher King sit". Move up and left to a large, flat jug, then traverse left into "The Fisher's Mark" or "Pantless".
7

The Fisher King sit-start, 7A+

V7+. Sit-start using two obvious, low jug-edges. Move up and right to gain the long crimp-rail, then up and left to the mantle in the scoop.
8

The Fisher King, 7A

V6. Stand-start using good edges/jugs near arete. Move up and left to a long, thin crimp rail, then way up and left to a jug-edge over the lip. A tricky mantle into the scoop follows.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

The River King 4 / 11

1

Catch and Release, 6C+

V5/6. Sit-start matched on sloping edge. Move up and right, heading for the groove on the slab.
2

Mark's problem, 6C+

V5. Crouch/sit-start matched on edge. Move up and slightly left, heading for the groove on the slab. (FA Mark Derksen)
3

The Deadliest Catch low, 6C+

V5+. Sit-start matched on long edge (as per unnamed V5), and move up and right to join "Deadliest Catch".
4

The Deadliest Catch, 6B+

V3 to V5 range. Stand-start by stepping onto the left-side of the scooped slab, using obvious right-hand mini-jug, and whatever you like for your left. Move up and left via some tricky holds, a committing high-step, and an exhilarating finish.
5

Achelous, 6B

V3. Sit-start matched on low shelf/edge-complex. Move up the tall slab above.
6

Cast Away, 6C

V5ish. Sit-start as per "Achelous", but move diagonally up and right using right-hand crimps and left-hand slopers/pinches, to join the top of "River King". Technical and balancy on cool holds.
7

A River Runs Through It, 7C

V9ish. Sit-start in small pit, using a good, vertical right-hand edge, and a left-hand gaston. Cross left-hand up to a small crimp, and reach right to a pinch on the blunt corner. Bump to the large, diagonal shelf, then continue into the top of "River King".
8

The River King, 6B

Stand-start, matched on huge edge/sloper. Head up and slightly right, through huge, sloping shelves. (FA Mark Derksen, 2015)

1

2

3

4

5

The River King 5 / 11

1

Voyageur low, 7B+

V8+. Sit-start as per "Magnesis low", and head up and right to join and finish on "Voyageur".
2

Magnesis low, 6C

V5. Start very low, with obvious, thin right-hand crimp, and very low block on the arete (very near adjacent bloc). A couple of moves lead to "Magnesis". (FA Trent Hoover, 2017)
3

Voyageur, 7A+

V7ish. Sit-start matched on triangular jug at far left of face. Follow slopey rails right to gain, and finish up, the arete.
4

Magnesis, 6B

V3. Start as per "Voyageur", but head up and left to the arete. (FA Trent Hoover, 2017)
5

Stasis, 6B+

V3/4. Sit-start using blocky jug for left-hand, and lower incut sidepull for right-hand. Move up the left side of the arete, before rolling right to finish. (FA Trent Hoover, 2017)

1

2

3

The River King 6 / 11

1

Stasis, 6B+

V3/4. Sit-start using blocky jug for left-hand, and lower incut sidepull for right-hand. Move up the left side of the arete, before rolling right to finish. (FA Trent Hoover, 2017)
2

Lodge, 5

V1. Sit start under "wedge" overhang, left hand side-pull, right hand head-height crimp. Pull up onto slab, top out straight up. (FA Dan Anhorn, 2017)
3

Breath of the Wild, 4

V0. Climb the natural line to the peak of the slab. (FA Trent Hoover, 2017)

1

The River King 7 / 11

1

The Dock, 6A

V2. Start left hand on a small incut edge at chest height, and right hand on finger jug. Climb up and left along good holds, using leaning arete to topout. Be prepared for a difficult descent. (FA Trent Hoover, 2017)

1

The River King 8 / 11

1

The Sweet Science, 7A

V6ish. Sit-start matched on obvious incut edge. A powerful move up and left to a good sloper on the lip is followed by a tricky and committing topout.

1

The River King 9 / 11

1

The Clinch, 6B+

V4ish. Sit-start under overhanging side of arete, using a triangular right-hand pinch in the overhang, and left-hand compressing the arete slightly lower. Climb the steep side of the arete at first, before rolling left to gain a juggy edge. Top out left or right from there.

1

2

3

The River King 10 / 11

1

The Clinch, 6B+

V4ish. Sit-start under overhanging side of arete, using a triangular right-hand pinch in the overhang, and left-hand compressing the arete slightly lower. Climb the steep side of the arete at first, before rolling left to gain a juggy edge. Top out left or right from there.
2

The Contender, 6B

V3ish. Sit-start matched on left end of the dirty jug-rail. Move left to good, pinchy edges, then continue up and left through some tricky moves. Excellent moves on very cool holds.
3

The Ali Shuffle, 5

V1ish. Sit-start matched on dirty jug-rail. Move up and right, using obvious undercling rail to gain the lip. Shuffle slightly left to top out.

1

The River King 11 / 11

1

On the Ropes, 6B+

V4ish. Stand-start using opposing edges (left-hand is high, right-hand is low). Move up and left (using an inconspicuous hold) to gain the lip, then head right to top out.