Description

Big and high climbingwall with many easy and mid graded long and bolted sportroutes. The wall is nicely located next to a stone beach with terrific view over the bay. This is one of Stockholms most popular sportscrag.

The rock quality is super solid, very compact, and have a lot of bulgy round formations. The easier routes are generally angled below vertical, but some of them are a bit steeper and sometimes slightly overhanging as well. The routes are 20-35 meters long. Because of the compact quality the climbing can be a bit slippery if you are not used to it, or if you fribble with your foot placements, especially on hot summer days. Du to the compact quality the climbing can be a bit demanding with some tricky slab sections, and sometimes the bolts are a bit spread out to.

The wall is facing south west and catches the sun after 13 p.m. in the afternoon. There are some trees in front of the wall, but they do not give so much shade. Some road noise can be heard from road 222.

It's possible to reach some of the anchors from above without rappelling, but I don't recommend it. Generally the routes far to the left on the crag are easier to locate if you want to rig a top rope from above.

History

In the old Stockholm guidebook this wall was described as a crag that wasn't as good that you might think. And the wall really looked massive and great when passing it on the highway, and it was hard to believe that it wasn't that good. Apart for some traditional routes that were made in the early eighties, not much were done until the beginning of 2000.

Then Thomas "Helium" Hansson moved to Nacka, not far from the crag and started to put up a couple of bolted routes. And then more climbers joined in. Some of the routes where quite sparse bolted at first but some renovation has been done over the years and today its better, but still some improvements could be done.

Ekoberget

The area is access sensitive!

https://stkf.se/nyheter/2017/07/07/ny-parkering-vid-ekoberget/

Going by car:
Take road 222 east from Stockholm, and turn off towards Skevik (signposted). Follow the road 950 meters and take the first left onto Värmdövägen. After 1.85 km turn left onto Graningevägen (directly after a Football field on the right). Follow the road approximately 300 meters and park on a small dirt road 70 meters before the bridge, on the left side. It is very important to park well aside so that any tractor can pass on that same dirt road. This is a private road, but the landowner has given us permission to park here.

Going with public transport:
Take bus to Kihls gård. From the bus stop there is a fifteen minute walk to the crag.
Plan your trip: https://sl.se/en/

The path to the cliff enters the forest 50 meters after the bridge at the nature reserve sign. Follow the path through the forest and follow the path to the right down around the cliff. Paths that divide to the left leads up to the top of the crag, quite high above the routes.