John Niklasson

this is a crazy problem! such a mystery that this absolute gem of a climb fell into oblivion! but it's back. get on it. absolute 3 star problem.

terrific movement on good solid holds! once all the moves where figured out it went down quick. well worth a visit.

physical and fun!

massive move with a tricky top part. went left hand on big move. splendid.

went alot higher up then the beta video from Mikael Uponen. felt easier but still very fun climb.

first move is the only hard one. might be harder if you exclude some holds but why would you?

slopers galore

the most beautiful arete one can find. just enough holds. the most technical move I've done. deserves all the stars!!!

imo the perfect problem. so many fun moves on great rock! comitting top out, kinda scary. such a cool line!!! just superb. hard to grade due to its length. but took me more seshs then umpf and plasma låg combined. so I say 7c, to me.

Took an absolute eternity to do. Some 4 years of on & off tries. Every single beta tried. Felt impossible until it didn’t. Best lowball in Västra Götaland?

Stellar line. Absolute span limit going to the edge w/o getting right foot into the crack.

Very close to 3 stars imo. High straight away, fantastics holds and great moves. Love it!

Started w lh in small crimp pretty high up. Possible 7a+ if you can reach it. Cool straight forward crimping.

So nice!

At 182cm this isn’t 7b, not even in sub tropic conds with slippery slooper. Still fantastic! Sit start is a bit awkward tho.

Took forever. My true anti style. Did it with horrible campus beta for the 2nd move. Almost didn't snatch the jug. Happy its over with.

Did it with extreme hardcore beta. Still awesome problem.

Not sure if it was a height thing but it felt super easy. 2nd go. 1 move wonder.

The horrible mantle stops the 3 ⭐️. But fantastic climb!

With the absolute worst sesl mantle I’ve ever done 🫣

Had a grand old time on this one! One of the better OS I had. Thin techy crux was ⭐️⭐️⭐️

Start is gonna be hard if ur short. But there is a short ppl beta. 2 stars if not for start.

technical and fun.

In a pool of sweat.

FA. So many good holds its just incredible!

Felt super hard until I dialed the beta. So much fun to climb even if the holds a man made. They are however very comfortable lol.

Did it with knee pad. So I’d say the grade gets easier. Plus being 182cm helped. Fantastic climb thats sooo different form its sibling to the left.

Tension-y on fine holds.

The sloper was baked!

Fun but a bit broken up and short

compared to mister spak I found this harder therefore the upgrade.

Jeeezus this one is good! Super solid rock, height and a no fall zone top out. One of the best 7a’s I’ve climbed.

Took me an awful long time to ”just do”. My body just didn’t want to fit into the box. Stoked to take it down even if it should have happend some 2 months ago.

Too me soft side of 7b+. But dat swinggg! 🤯

Brilliant!

Committing top out to say the least.

Soo good! Starts with crux and then spectacular climbing all the way.

Somewhere between 7b+/7c imo. But with good stick and 10000 tries it felt more b+. 3 star top out!

Very close to 2 ⭐️s but the rather dull location + awkward starts stops it. Terrific moves though!

1st in the grade. Too me this might not be 7c. Did it in 1,5 session. But since most ppl here and on other platforms seem to agree I won’t rock the boat. But to me its soft and fits me like glove. Amazing climb on amazing rock. Too bad that the tree fucks it up.

Meh. Decent one move wonder. 3rd try

Beautiful

Cool one-move wonder!

Helluva first move in every way. Hard and beautiful.

A fantastic climb! Looks alot easier then it was. 2nd go.

Quite dirty but just fantastic climbing! Crux for me was for sure the travers in the beginning.

Haaard start.

A very very good climb! I think its alot easier if you are +180 cm though. So much climbing on just bullet rock!!!

The rope drag was the real enemy. All the new lines kinda makes this one feel a little forced. But the climbing was good.

Easier if your 180+ i’d say. Still very good climbing. I climbed it horribly though 😂

Very nice one-mover! always hard to grade but with my reach it wasn’t that hard even if I’m out of shape. But well worth doing!

Had to dig alot deeper than was probably necessary

Very good climb in a very scenic enviroment. Whats not to love!?

Maybe not the hardest but my god the rock quality!!! 🤩

Magic line!

A bit unclear what is included and whats not. Sticking to the right side when topping out is what makes the grade imo.

One of the best I ever climbed. Fantastic to have FA on belay while onsighting this beauty!

Crimpy and reachy. Without crash pad is alot spicier then it should be lol.

I found this to be one of the best I’ve climbed! The top out is so much fun. Found myself hanging up there for a good 30 sec before committing.

Better then I intially thought but not my kind of route. Tricky indeed.

Sharp crimp in the start. Not one of the better on the rock.

A very solid climb with a committing top out on slab. Might be on soft side of 7a+?

Crux is quite nice but not a classic.

Pulled off a hold and fell on the OS. Not the best or worst route. Just a route.

Harder then Betakiosken but maybe not a full grade?. I recommend not clipping 2nd before dyno. Just a fantastic route. Big moves, technical heeeeavy crux at the end. Stellar! A must climb in the grade.

Nice solid climb.

I thouroughly enjoyed this! Short and sweet.

Stellar! Upper end 6b+ due to the pump imo.

Airy and nice but where is the crux?

Probably on the soft side if you’re taller. Still splendid no matter the grade.

Very cruxy crux. Fun and short little climb.

Fun varied climbing aaaall the way.

3rd go. If the ending wasn’t so got damn awkward it would be 3 ⭐️ Start is nothing short of brilliant.

fun climbing but no way is it 7a. the big rest ledge breaks up the climb and removes the star for me.

So fun! Crimp galore.

Sustained and even. Just fantastic movement throughout. Best I’ve climbed in sweden!

Alot easier then Kermit.

Might even be 6c imo.

A very pleasant problem on pebbles

Very nice holds and fun pogo to the ledge. The overhang is real!

Dynamic!

Delicate but Alot easier then Dogma. Prob 6b in Font 🤣

Technical little climb that felt way harder 1st go, on 3rd it was kinda easy. Well worth climbing.

Might be the best 6a around. Amazing holds.

Best rock I ever climbed. Big dynamic moves for the win. 1st 8a but might be easier or it just suites me like hand in glove 🤷

2nd go as last route of session. Slopers killed me :-)

cool short little fella

Had so much fun on this one!

Couldn’t start in the lowest crimp rail. Simply to long legs and could easily reach next crimp rail from sit. Fun move to lip!

Very nice climb! Quite easy though. try and stay away from the arete to the right whilsy topping. Much more fun. ;-)

Baaaaaarn door!

Took me some time to figure out not the go to the right…

Haaaard 7a. Real old school. Easy until it ain’t.

Toke me forever to red point. Every hold imaginable is on this route it seems like. A real gem imo!

Hard to grade. Bascially can u do the first move you can do the boulder. All come down to pulling on crimps

Upper 6c+ imo.

Burned flash :-(

VERY nice climb. Solid and even.

Very cool! Soft for the grade maybe?

One move wonder

Alot harder then the other ones

Moonboard in the wild!

One of the best 6c’s I’ve climbed. Magical holds.

A terrific boulder with a fun end. 2nd go.

Might have went abit further to the right due to excessive tick marks. Tried the other way and it was bascially the same.

3rd go show have prob been flash. Pumped like crazy.

On my way up to Modiga Joao.

Flowed as hell on this one. Prob suited my style but felt softer then 6C+ imo.

Managed to almost find my way into Hövdingen. Had to unclip and down climb. Hahah. Therefore i have no clue on grade. My ”beta” was hard lol.

2nd go. Terrific climb imo. Lots of rests yet i managed to get pumped anyway.

Brölade my way over the mantle.

very sequence-y middle part.

Barefoot

Puh!

Wet holds stopped the onsight. Felt pretty soft to me. 2nd red point try.

very nice climbing!!

might be softer then 6c+. stay on the left side makes it funner and harder

Awesome problem. Nice compression moves. No way is it 7b tho. Still one of the best in Borås.

3rd go.

Short but sweet

Hard for the grade!

Great moves!

Very neat climb! Icy top out meant bringing out the alpine knee.

Fantastic climb featuring a perfect full crimp and a slopey mono!

Very good climb. Solid roof with potential heartbreak at the end.

Did it with LH in sidepull lower down as well as both hands on horizontal crimps. Both are nice but neither is 7b.

Classic Utby boulder. Mantle was tricky.

Techy and kind of adventureus.

Very close to 3 stars. Just amazing. One of the best in Borås for sure!

Sucks the arete isn’t taller! Techy stuff thats actually not that hard if you just use your feet.

Excellent although a bit broken up w big rest ledge

Hard crux

Soft side of 7a. Nice movement. Too bad it doesn’t top out.

Sharpest crimps in Västra götaland? Might just be. Still a good climb. Soft side of 7a+.

A near perfect route imo. Great rock, flowy movements, sustained, technical. One of the best in Borås for sure.

Best 6 in Tosseryd imo. Varied sustained climbing w lots of knee bar-opportunities!

Borderline 2 stars. Scary to go to the top w/o spotter

Finally try before summer rain shower

Went w right herl beta. Felt quite easy. Skipped top out slab due to rain. Was told I could tick anyway ;-)

Got DAMN! Sooo good. Easier then Beach bum though.

Damned good moves on damned good rock in a damned good location.

Soft side of 7a?

First move is the grade. The rest is just pump. One the best problems i’ve climbed on. The locations, the rock quality, the moves. Spectacular!

Very nice and stiff problem.

Outstanding!

Campus

2nd go. Pumpy pump pump.

Almost 1 move wonder.

Blew a foot on first move flash attempt. 2nd go. Dynamic and spicy top

Hard crux for 6b. Prob had bad beta. Really enjoyable after crux

Very nice little climb. Soft side of 6c maybe...?

Season flash.

True king line. Everything about it is just stellar.

warm up w a little bit of spice at the end

Nice short route. Quite soft for the grade imo. 2nd try.

Just a fantastic climb! Probably best I’ve climbed. Gets easier for each move. 1st rp try after working the moves.

Short, fun, easy. Very nice! All surroundling forrest has been cleared so yay!

I’d say it’s easier if your tall (182) and go a little further to the right when going to the lip. Still darn fantastic problem!

Sharp and precise.

Maybe bad beta but I found South Beach easier. Font fantastic!

Can it really get any better then this? Font quality holds on a small beach by the ocean. Yay! Easier if your tall imo

Hard boulder problem right off the start. Fun fun fun climbing.

Mantle mantle mantle. Season flash.

Lovely traverse with good holds.

So much fun!

Fun easy climbing to final thin airy crux. Loved it! 2nd go.

This is the true bolt line. The ”?” route is a double. Grade is alot harder then 6a+. Steep, hard and great start!

2nd go. Fantastic crux. Just a bit to broken up for 2 ⭐️’s

Techy stuff.

6c+ is the true grade according to original guide. Very nice body tension movements. 2nd gp.

Easy side of 7a but still really fun and interesting movement.

Excellent crux dynamic move!

Did it while climbing Cowboy

Stiff for the grade

Easier then the 6a arete next to it. Roll over sesl top out in pure font fashion.

Slopey. Hard for the grade.

Reaaaal good

Best boulder I ever climbed

Very very fun dyno to the top!

Proper hard for the grade. Top out 100% Font ;-)

Niiiice & balancy

Very fun!

Fun slab. Used my hands tho

Fun climb but abit forced crux. I used a small crimp w LH that is used in Dansa din djävul.

Probably morpho. Not the best route but still a nice line. Especially the start which in basically the route...

FA

As good as it get. Perfect boulder, sharp crimps, amazing movements. Dynamic finnisj. Top notch.

Hard to grade, fun to climb.

Soaked and therefore scary. Bet it’s nice real nice dry tho.

Long moves. Like looooong.

Meh.

Crimp fest deluxe

Really fun climb. Easy up to the last clip where it gets funky!

Can’t get better in the grade imo.

Awkward 2nd clip. Easy peasy after that.

Better then it looks.

2nd go. Got scared senseless on the OS attempt.

Thin, balance-y, fantastic

Boulder-y and very nice! Hard 7a imo.

Soft 6b. Nice movements and fun top out

Outstanding high ball slab.

Hard to grade. Morpho? Still well worth climbing & deserves more traffic. Terrificly exposed roof climbing

How often do you find a good no hands head jam rest?!

Nice crux move. Dyno is the way to go.

Big holds & big moves. Sneaky pump.

Small crimps, sharp crimps, slopey crimps, lotsa crimps.

Started from orignal start, on the ledge. First move is haaaard. NO WAY is the 7b. Says 7a+ in guide book as well

Reaaaally nice climbing in cracks & big jugs finnishes w a slab thats a little scary.

Probably the best problem on Hestrastenen. Fantastic movement. Best elimination problem in Västra Götaland...?

Pumpy and sustained

Easy climbing. Technical crux and the end. According to guide book its 7a and I agree even though its on the easy side of 7a

Fantastic line. The travers out over the roof and distinct crux move is splendid.

Steep beautiful rock. Interesting holds that needs figuring out. Its almost perfect.

Nice compression problem

Just a great problem. A Hönö classic!

Crimpy, sequency and sneaky pumpy. A must do! Pretty stiff for the grade.

Short...

Wierd awkward climb. Fun crux.

Short and bouldery. Scary 3rd clip and run out to anchor. In true Ramnaslätt fashion!

Easier if u go a little to the left after 2nd bolt. Holds up grade if u go straight up after 2nd bolt.

Some big moves on some big jugs

Short but sweet.

Starts of with the crux. Many kind of holds making it very interesting to climb

Pumpy with a nice crux kinda scary crux in the beginning

Quite easy for the crag

Suprise pump at the end. Bit cruxy in the begining

Hardest most sustained 6c I've climbed. So many good moves. Soooo pumped at the anchors.

Really good climb on solid holds.

fantastic crux involving a finger crack and some sweet feet placement.

2nd go. Slipped off w right hand on flash try :-(

Truly a unique problem. Technical feet in the beginning and then just do it!

Good solid line with really only 1 6c move. Nice little arete action.

short but sweet.

If you stem this climb really isn't 7a... and why wouldn't you. downgraded in official guide as well. well worth climbing though.

tremendous climb. very technical. feel like your on the dawn wall ;-)

campus like a mf. not the prettiest ascent (knee may have been involved). top out is seriously wierd/hard.

did it first try but had done the stand start first. if you can hold the crimps it's not really that much harder then stand start

the holds, the view <3

fantastic problem. well worth visiting only for this problem imo.

Top class problem. Involves an amazing kneebar right from the get go! Horribly approach though.

Really stick dependent with some fun moves. Short and boulder-y

jugfest right until the very end where there are 2-3 moves on crimpers/cobbles.

Maybe a bit soft 6c. Crux in beginning with easy but good climbinf on upper half

Fun little climb. Helps if your tall i would say. Solid granit with a balancy crux

Technical crux. Good solid 6b.

Really fun climbing. Big dynamic crux followed by fun (kinda dirty) mantle over the lip. Do it while it's some what cleaned :-)

hardest 6b+ I ever climbed. rumor has it the crux hold for the left hand broke some years ago. which would explain why I found it so damn hard ;-)

really nice problem with good holds. a crux in the middle and good solid big holds at the end!

2nd go

really nice! solid holds and diverse climbing. fun with crux at the end.

balance needed. really fun and not like any other route at this crag. long way to the first bolt but still safe.

haaaard 6c imo. starts with a bouldery crux that i think is easier if you´re short. nice moves on good holds!

a 3 bolted 12m+ route climbing good nice holds. although it feels like basically every hold can come off at any time. so kinda scary. but worth it.

sweet jugs all the way. easy 6c.

Balance in the beginning. Good rest. Pumpy finnish. Great climb.

fun and kind of adventurey climbing. Feels like a multi-pitch. 10 meters to the left of Strake.

First move is the crux. Nice moves.

Fantastic dyno. As always with dyno's grading is kinda hard. But sooo well worth doing no matter the grade!

Quite good. Solid holds.

Super fun boulder type climb. I think it's one of the best one on the crag.

Really fun dihedral climbing. Remember to move rhose feet up