For Doylo x

over 5 years ago

I achieved another PB yesterday doing 3 x 10sec weighted deadhangs on the 23m edge of the Wedge. The weight was 42.5kg which represents a collosal improvement from when I started last July. Unfortunately I didnt start straight away with the 23mm hold so I can't be exact on the improvement but factoring in winter weight gain it is over 20kgs.

Some people are understandably put off by the jargon stemming from Eva's blog and research paper. If you think these are complicated then take a butcher's at the training progamme that comes with her fingerboard. It is still at Bletchley Park for deciphering. Joking apart, content is more important than style and Eva has made a great contribution to our training knowledge.

For me there were a few simple things I took away from Eva's work that guided the way I approach weighted hangs. 1. Bigger results are achieved on a medium hold with bigger weights. 2 These hangs are good training for both hanging smaller holds and improving finger endurance. 3. Intensity is everything requiring sessions that are preceded by rest.

Whilst Eva suggests that going to failure isn't optimal I prefer to for a couple of reasons. Psychologically I am highly motivated trying to beat previuos sessions. Also what is 100% max to failure? even when I am psyched and think I am trying 100% am I really?. I'm sure if I was off my face on speed or there was a gun pointed at the head of my first born I would squeeze a couple more seconds out. Additionally I think climbing near my limit for 30 years my brain is accustomed to ignoring the regular messages it gets from my fingers to get stronger so extreme stimulus is required.

So Doylo its not complicated if you choose to do it my way. Usually I do 2 sessions a week for 3 weeks and have a break for a week. In each session I get fully recruited and allow as much time as I want between hangs (4-6minutes). Best if you start by finding an edge you can half crimp for around 3 x 5-7secs to failure with 20kg attached. When you have progressed to doing 3 x 10 secs then add 2.5kg for the next session.


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