Sergey Solovyev

Vassa juggar. Spännande flyt på slutet. Starten är oklar - det går att börja på juggen till vänster. Jag började på sidotaget nere till höger som gav två moves till den korta leden. Gick på andra försöket, förmodligen soft för graden (6c+?)

Otydlig. Svår att rensa. Ett litet fotgrepp lossnade på starten, vet inte om det blir svårare nu.

Bra link-up. Tydligare än leden som går snett från samma start. Fick kallpump på den men kunde återhämta mig efter 3bb :)

Lite mer sport känsla på den här leden jämfört med de flesta andra på klippan. Fin. Har en del vassa grepp.

Fin o hård, svårare än Djingis Khan. Ett grepp innanför kruxsekvensen gick sönder igår men det påverkar inte graden särskilt mycket.

Inte dum men soft?

Helt okej

Det finns 6b+ hårdare än den här leden. Bra för uppvärmning. Fin, inga konstigheter.

Typ onsight - second go på första movet. Ett nyckelgrepp för starten ligger en bit bort från bultlinien ;)

Gjorde starten från marken och inte från stenhögen. Startmovet kändes ganska hård.

Soft och fin

Kul start sekvens och inte helt lätt klättring till slutet. Gjorde ett misstag på flashen och gick in i iron cross vid näst sista bulten men orkade att klättra tillbaks :)

Rolig och klurig!

Great straightforward route. Pump is your enemy :)

Very uneven. Somewhat burly (and hard) crux. Soft?

Cool start sequence

Cool line, has a bit of everything: a bouldery start with a heel hook, a technical traverse with a hand jam and a mantling at the end. Went down faster than its 7b neighbor. Probably because it's less bouldery?

Nice bouldery route, good holds. Would have upgraded it to 7b+ if it hadn't felt so easy on the send attempt :) Might be harder than its 7b+ neighbor

One of the best in its class in Sweden. Minus one star for a dirty start and questionable stone quality (a 5kg block fell down during a warm up). It should be climbed more!

Hard, powered through the crux

Nice

Soft

Hard

Jug fest

Soft with the right beta. But surprisingly fun to climb

Soft.

Cool line, took me a while to find a good beta. After that I ran on it 3 times in a row >_<

I enjoyed it even more than Solar Plexus, maybe because it's more even and doesn't have such a bouldery start. The crux sequence is just beautiful and requires not only some power left in the tank but also a delicate footwork. Got heavy rain and hail on the send day but it didn't stop me (actually I climbed this route when it was way more wet ;) If it's in your climbing range and you are visiting Sjöända - this route is a must.

I don't like Ågelsjön that much - there is too many mediocre routes. This line however is one of the best I climbed out there. Quite different in style before and after the ledge, including a delicate and quite hard start, slab middle section and vertical climbing till the end. I was surprised to fall several times right before the anchor, apparently the red point crux was higher than I expected it. However the route went relatively easy after all the beta was learned ;) Grade-wise it's somewhere in 7a+/b zone.

Hårdare än leden bredvid

Lättast på klippan men fin. Fotslip när hängde Ohm.

Starten är lättare än man tror

Fin kruxsekvens

Hard. Felt doable after dogging but the red point crux turned out to be not at the end of the route but right after 4th QD. Took way too many attempts. The route is nice, a bit spicy at the end.

By the marks on the rock it looked like several holds fell off. I wonder if that made the route easier.

Short and bouldery.

Hard and reachy crux move. 2nd go.

One (reachy) move wonder. Mediocre.

Not bad!

Okay route with hard start sequence.

Säsongens första send. Gick relativt lätt på första presset efter ett par doggningar. Fin och mycket beta-beroende led. Rekommenderas.

The finest I've climbed so far. Was never a real project but I tried it several times during the season '19. Today it went. +6 in the air and dry rock - you don't need more. I was really close to fall after the last crux due to the pump but somehow caught a crimp in the crack and then bumped further to the edge of the "shelf". After that I knew I couldn't fall and climbed the last meters with a confidence.

Pumpy!!!

Not that bad link-up actually...

Tried this route a couple of years ago on top rope and had no memory whatsoever of it this time when I climbed it on lead. A very nice climb, finest of its grade at the crag.

The finest among 7a's at this crag. Cool crux move. Run-out at the end but much easier climbing compared to the rest of the route.

On the second try it felt not hard at all. After the second session I felt weak (and disappointed). Third session revealed that it's easy to fall after the crux. Fourth session brought the relieve. Nice and hard boulder route. I wonder why the 4th bolt is so high and when it is supposed to be clipped (always put a long sling there).

Difficult to call it a flash as I've tried both start and finish of this route before. However, I liked it more than Goliath/Simple Man. Probably, because it's more even.

Amazing tufa climbing. Felt quite hard for the grade but maybe that's because of the poor beta. I had a real fight on the 2nd go which I won with a very small margin (I guess I didn't want to lose my balls at the end of the game). Unfortunately, the anchor was not in the great shape - a bit of rust on the chain and the carabiners were worn deeply. Other than that - a very fine line, definitely worth a try.

Okyt route but nothing special about it.

Interesting route, send on the 2nd go. Very physical first half, then it gets easier (2 stars instead of 3 for that) and ends with a slab. In the shade after 16 and probably much earlier (end of July).

Very nice and long route. Holds are on both sides of the wall but you don't get a chimney feeling. In the shade at least after 16 and probably much earlier (end of July).

One of the best routes I've tried so far. Very bouldery start that felt impossible on the first attempts, nice technical gaston move closer to the middle, sloppy holds after the ledge that required a little bit of footwork, crimps and small cracks closer to the end and even some mantling on the last ledge - this route has it all. 25 meters of joy. Highly recommended.

Fint men nog soft för graden. Roligt krux, hittade en sekvens som var lättare för mig än rakbetan.

Very nice overhanging climbing on jugs

I liked this route more than the other 5+ next to it. It's easier as well.

Sandbagged 5+. I've climbed easier 6a's. Okay-ish.

Goldfish flash. Felt quite easy. Don't deserve a star in my opinion, there are nicer lines at the crag, e.g. Zebulon, Snake Eyes

Not bad buy not good either. I took a good side-pull quite far to the left between 3rd and 4th QD, not sure it's part of the route.

One of the better lines at this crag

Bara första pitchen. Inte hårdare än 6a

On the second try. Having QDs on the wall definitely helps a bit, especially at the anchor :P

It can't be a 6a. I've climbed several 5b's harder than it. It's a very nice route though

Quite hard crux in the middle of the route

Sweden's easiest 7a?