Yearly top 10 averages
Summary
Gr.
Tot
On
Fl
Re
To
Diagram
5.14a 0 0 0 0 0
5.13d 4 0 0 4 0
5.13c 12 0 0 12 0
5.13b 29 1 0 28 0
5.13a 26 5 0 20 1
5.12d 43 19 0 24 0
5.12c 86 57 2 27 0
5.12b 102 84 6 11 1
5.12a 77 55 7 13 2
5.11d 74 54 8 9 3
5.11c 27 10 4 5 8
5.11b 21 17 2 1 1
5.11a 10 9 0 1 0
5.10d 7 6 0 0 1
5.10c 2 1 0 0 1
5.10b 5 3 0 0 2
5.10a 3 2 0 0 1
5.9 3 1 0 0 2
5.8 0 0 0 0 0
5.7 3 2 0 0 1
Highlights
Crags visited:
118
Ascents total:
535
Ascent types
Red point On-sight Flash Top rope
Ascents
Ascent date Ascent date Route Crag Type Grade Ascent type
2017-09-23
2017-09-23
On-sight
La Guerre des gangs
5.12d Sport at La Croix
50m of climbing in 50min. Couldn't find a single no-hands on this; a very sustained route. Top class.
La Croix Sport 5.12d On-sight
2017-09-02
2017-09-02
Red point
Mirada felina
5.13b Sport at Cicera
Reachy and weird top crux. Fingery first crux. Not really a classic.
Cicera Sport 5.13b Red point
2017-08-28
2017-08-28
On-sight
Imperfectus Bultus
5.12c Sport at Estragüeña
Estragüeña Sport 5.12c On-sight
2017-08-28
2017-08-28
On-sight
Pletorika
5.12c Sport at Estragüeña
Estragüeña Sport 5.12c On-sight
2017-08-20
2017-08-20
On-sight
La vieja escuela
5.12a Sport at Péchon
Excellent, brilliant, etc.
Péchon Sport 5.12a On-sight
2017-08-19
2017-08-19
Red point
Troncomovil
5.13b Sport at Cicera
Two boulderproblem separated by a rest leads to a ledge (hands off). The second half is absolutely amazing, like a sustained 7b/c out of Céüse. Dogged/failed to onsight once, fell on the second boulder on the first rp attempt. On my second rp attempt I got through the start, but stayed too short on the ledge. Fought my way to the top, to discover that I could not do the sequence I had previewed. Spent 25 min climbing up and down to an average rest until I found the proper way. Totally destroyed after
Cicera Sport 5.13b Red point
2017-08-17
2017-08-17
Red point
Veneno azul
5.13b Sport at Cicera
Nice route. Some long reaches low down. Very onsightable I guess.
Cicera Sport 5.13b Red point
2017-08-15
2017-08-15
On-sight
Efecto Domino
5.12b Sport at Urdón
Probably my hardest ascent this year, considering the conditions. Like climbing in a steam bath. Couldn't hold any of the smaller holds and had to improvise some quite funky moves. Super-proud of this one.
Urdón Sport 5.12b On-sight
2017-07-23
2017-07-23
On-sight
Ange
5.12a Sport at Céüse
Steep on jugs. Good warm-up. It's 7a+ in the local topo, but 7a is probably a better grade (even considering that the grades on Grande Face is out of wack compared to the classic sectors)
Céüse Sport 5.12a On-sight
2017-07-23
2017-07-23
Flash
2001 - l'odysee du grimpeur
5.12b Sport at Céüse
The rightmost of the Edlinger 7b trio. Cool finish, the rest is average.
Céüse Sport 5.12b Flash
2017-07-23
2017-07-23
On-sight
Retour en Afrique L1
5.12a Sport at Céüse
Dement. The rising traverse at the top has some of the best climbing in Provence.
Céüse Sport 5.12a On-sight
2017-07-23
2017-07-23
On-sight
Dietetic line
5.12b Sport at Céüse
Majeur ! The leftmost of the three classic Edlinger 7bs. This one is the best, and maybe the best 7b in Céüse. Techy, harder parts interspersed with good rests, so not too pumpy.
Céüse Sport 5.12b On-sight
2017-07-20
2017-07-20
On-sight
Syrte
5.12b Sport at Céüse
50m. Techy start, quite a lot of climbing on this. People who find this super-soft probably mistakenly climb Emmenez-moi to the right (I did the first time around, thinking “that's never 7b in a million years”). I'd heard that it was very soft, so I did this for warm-up. Not a brilliant idea in retrospect.
Céüse Sport 5.12b On-sight
2017-07-17
2017-07-17
Red point
Femme blanche
5.13c Sport at Céüse
Finally! Fell ten times from the crux (never below), twice from the slab (where only idiots fall on the rp). Way too long time spend on this. Have no excuses really, but it's a very good route well worth climbing. A bit frustrating to try to project a route in Céüse during high season. Short days, with only a 2 hour window with acceptable conditions and lots of people who only climb routes where the draws are already in, even when hangdogging....
Céüse Sport 5.13c Red point
2017-07-06
2017-07-06
On-sight
Au sud de nulle part
5.12c Sport at Céüse
After two attempts on my project my shoulder was unhappy. This looked slabby enough. Lots of climbing on this one
Céüse Sport 5.12c On-sight
2017-07-02
2017-07-02
On-sight
Un pont sur l'infini L1
5.11d Sport at Céüse
Major. Somewhat runout. Damn. Have a hard time in Céüse this time around. Remember it as easier than this. Hope it gets better.
Céüse Sport 5.11d On-sight
2017-06-27
2017-06-27
On-sight
L'homme du néant des dalles
5.12c Sport at Gorges du Loup
Short and steep. HOTHOTHOT. Over 30° and humid. Everything was a struggle. This one is supposedly super-soft, but hard enough today. I guess the route-name is a word play on Neanderthal?
Gorges du Loup Sport 5.12c On-sight
2017-06-04
2017-06-04
Red point
Sudden Death
5.13a Sport at Couyrac
The hard part is quite short, about ten moves.
Couyrac Sport 5.13a Red point
2017-05-23
2017-05-23
Red point
J'ai le Bourdon
5.13b Sport at Couyrac
A 7a+ with one hard move in the middle. Not exactly the greatest route... really hot and muggy as well. Note: To have the bumble bee (avoir le Bourdon) means to be sad, have low morale etc.
Couyrac Sport 5.13b Red point
2017-05-13
2017-05-13
On-sight
Les Marches du Temps
5.11d Sport at Gorges du Verdon
With Erik N and Julia S. Excellent, superb etc. The first pitch is meh, and hard. Then first a good, then a marvellous and finally a magnifique pitch follows before the awful aid pitch. The second to last pitch is not to be underestimated. Modernly bolted. Nowhere runout. Very very sustained. Difficulty-wise I couldn't really tell much difference between the pitches.
Gorges du Verdon Sport 5.11d On-sight
2017-05-12
2017-05-12
On-sight
Surface
5.12c Sport at Gorges du Verdon
Very very good. I led the short crux pitch which is 7b in some topos and 7b+ in others. I suspect the former but tick it as the latter :D
Gorges du Verdon Sport 5.12b (5.12c) On-sight
2017-05-09
2017-05-09
On-sight
Dépêche Rhodes L1
5.12b Sport at Gorges du Verdon
Hard.
Gorges du Verdon Sport 5.12b On-sight
2017-05-09
2017-05-09
On-sight
Brouillon de culture
5.12c Sport at Gorges du Verdon
Gorges du Verdon Sport 5.12c On-sight
2017-05-08
2017-05-08
Red point
Prise de Cent
5.12a Sport at Gorges du Verdon
From the garden (not the first three pitches).
Gorges du Verdon Sport 5.12a Red point
2017-05-07
2017-05-07
On-sight
La Voie du 50cm
5.11c Sport at Gorges du Verdon
Pity about the roof with direct Aid. The offwidth chimney is *very* hard, and not nice in any way so I guess 6b is fair.
Gorges du Verdon Sport 5.11c On-sight
2017-04-29
2017-04-29
Red point
Mister Cool
5.13b Sport at Couyrac
8a/8a+. Overhanging rubble, so the grade depends on how many footholds that break on you/have broken recently. Quite OK route nevertheless.
Couyrac Sport 5.13b Red point
2017-04-29
2017-04-29
On-sight
Freestyle
5.12c Sport at Couyrac
Couyrac Sport 5.12c On-sight
2017-04-21
2017-04-21
On-sight
Les poules aux yeux d'or
5.12c Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12c On-sight
2017-04-20
2017-04-20
Red point
Les Nouvelles Plantations du Christ (L2)
5.13b Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Did the first pitch two and a half years ago. Today I dogged to the top, waited half an hour and sent it just before sunset. Very good climbing on the upper part, but jeez the crux on the 2nd part is stupidly runout... Anyway: a really good route, but for me this is not as good as “Les Ailes du Désir” (then again, nothing is).
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.13b Red point
2017-04-20
2017-04-20
Red point
Moules frites
5.13b Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Dur dur dur. Had many attempts over 2 days a week ago, went on the first attempt today. Felt easy when I did it, but it was on my 10th try or something similar. (=I do not agree with the downgrade to 7c+ in the guidebook). A route in three parts. First a 7b/+ romp to a decent rest followed by a boulderproblem on small holds. Then a final easier part. The boulder i very thin so the route should be avoided during hot days.
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.13b Red point
2017-04-17
2017-04-17
Red point
Le plaisir qui demonte L2
5.13d Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Finally! Tried this a lot last year, but was way too out of shape for the route. Went quite quickly this year (hd session +5 goes). 50 m of sustained climbing, never very hard. This is the best route on the Tennessee sector, and thus could well be the best route in Tarn (if you like long continuous pitches i.e.) (This has been downgraded to 8a+ by the locals, which is probably a fair assessment for climbers with reasonable fitness)
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.13c (5.13d) Red point
2017-04-12
2017-04-12
Red point
Plan de Carrière
5.12c Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Fell off the hard, tricky, part at the start on the onsight attempt. Very good route, one of the best on the sector if you discard the fingery bottom crux.
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12c Red point
2017-04-12
2017-04-12
Red point
Le string a fredo
5.12d Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Fell before the crux on the o/s.
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12d Red point
2017-04-08
2017-04-08
Red point
Avatarn
5.13a Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Good route in two parts. 20m slab to a big bombay, then some easier slightly overhanging climbing. 3 tries today. Almost did this onsight 2 years ago...
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.13a Red point
2017-03-03
2017-03-03
Red point
Last Line
5.13a Sport at Terradets
One hard move.
Terradets Sport 5.13a Red point
2017-02-26
2017-02-26
Red point
Homo Plombus
5.12b Sport at Calamés
Calamés Sport 5.12b Red point
2017-02-26
2017-02-26
Red point
Rahan
5.12c Sport at Calamés
Calamés Sport 5.12c Red point
2017-02-19
2017-02-19
Red point
Pamplemousse Rose
5.13c Sport at Terradets
Not in the best of styles... but it was pretty wet. Anarkista, which I thought was my last remaining 8a+ in Bruixes was totally wet all week. However the locals tipped me off that the grade in the guidebook for this route was a mistake, and that it should be 8a/+ and that after some breakage it is a solid 8a+. Very bouldery route, not at all in the classic Bruixes style. Two hard boulder-problems with a shake-out between them to a second shake-out, then an easier boulder to steep hero-climbing on jugs to the top.
Terradets Sport 5.13c Red point
2017-01-28
2017-01-28
Red point
Una Bonita Sesión de Mete y Saca
5.12d Sport at Terradets
The crag was wet, but at least it was bearable temps for the first time this year. This had mostly wet or humid holds. Fell from the first and last hard move (at the penultimate bolt) with my fingers just a little bit too low to hold it. Went easy on the second go. Basicallly a 7a/+ up to a very short crux that makes it 7c/+. If it has draws in so you can bail before the crux this is one of the best warm-ups in Bruixes
Terradets Sport 5.12d Red point
2016-12-25
2016-12-25
Red point
Divine Idylle
5.11d Sport at St. Léger
Dur dur.
St. Léger Sport 5.11d Red point
2016-12-24
2016-12-24
Red point
Les Rois du Pétrole
5.12a Sport at St. Léger
St. Léger is not the best crag when you're totally out of shape... I'm struggeling with a virus, but this felt insanely hard today. Very sustained climbing on not totally natural rock (a bit sika and some manufactured pockets, I suspect) with a hard bulge on top. Burned out horribly on the onsight/warm-up go. Powerscreaming on the rp...
St. Léger Sport 5.12a Red point
2016-12-22
2016-12-22
On-sight
Dans les yeux d’Émilie L1+2
5.11c Sport at Les baumes des eyguiers
Nice. I truly suck.
Les baumes des eyguiers Sport 5.11d (5.11c) On-sight
2016-12-22
2016-12-22
On-sight
Socle en Stock
5.11d Sport at Les baumes des eyguiers
Jesus. Climbing is much more difficult than I remember. I suck, or this is very hard for the grade? Or both?
Les baumes des eyguiers Sport 5.12b (5.11d) On-sight
2016-09-01
2016-09-01
On-sight
Alpinista Egoista
5.12a Sport at Estragüeña
Nice route with exposed and tricky finish. Well worth doing. OK warm-up. Easy first half.
Estragüeña Sport 5.12a On-sight
2016-09-01
2016-09-01
On-sight
Goliath
5.12d Sport at Estragüeña
Great little holiday crag! (But the locals were quite pissed that foreigners knew about this sector... and trash-talked us in their secret langue, Spanish..., oops.) First time I've done more than one "7c or harder" onsights in a day. No mayor hickups. Harder to read than Asturacántabra but easier climbing. The fog had moved in, so had to fight slimy holds at the top. Bit strange place for an anchor, surely it's not too hard to climb to the top?
Estragüeña Sport 5.12d On-sight
2016-09-01
2016-09-01
On-sight
Asturcántabra
5.13a Sport at Estragüeña
The best line of the crag. Missed a crucial hold at the top and yelled “take”. Fortunately J refused, and payed out slack instead and forced me to down climb and reassess. Found the right sequence and cruised to the anchor. Finally some holiday grades after having gotten spanked at Cueva Carcalosa and at Cicera.
Estragüeña Sport 5.13a On-sight
2016-08-29
2016-08-29
Red point
Dimensiones Paralelas
5.13a Sport at Cueva Carcalosa
HARD! Double tufa-rail. Went through the first crux on my o/s attempt, but promptly fell afterwards, as soon as a slightly harder move appeared. Got to the good rest on 1st rp attempt, but screwed up on the never ending compression after. Did it on my one and only go the day after. Power screaming/whimpering on every move from the good rest to the top. Totally a muerte. Could not climb anything else that day. Possibly the best line I've seen on limestone in this grade. Climbed fairly well also. If you have the level you must do this one.
Cueva Carcalosa Sport 5.13a Red point
2016-08-29
2016-08-29
On-sight
Moccasym L1
5.12b Sport at Cueva Carcalosa
Heads up: very hard slab in the start, especially for the short.
Cueva Carcalosa Sport 5.12c (5.12b) On-sight
2016-08-28
2016-08-28
On-sight
La Deriva L1
5.12a Sport at Cueva Carcalosa
Hard
Cueva Carcalosa Sport 5.12a On-sight
2016-08-25
2016-08-25
On-sight
La Corbata de Unquera
5.11d Sport at Cicera
Super cool slab. 41°C, so I'm pretty happy with the tick
Cicera Sport 5.11d On-sight
2016-08-24
2016-08-24
On-sight
Pacifis
5.12c Sport at Cicera
Good route. Strength endurance on slightly overhanging terrain in the bottom, then very fine continuous vertical climbing to the chain. Approximate date of ascent. My fiftieth 7b+ onsight
Cicera Sport 5.12c On-sight
2016-08-23
2016-08-23
On-sight
Rumenes power y al vino
5.12a Sport at Rumenes
Rumenes Sport 5.12a On-sight
2016-08-22
2016-08-22
On-sight
Apokalimnos
5.12b Sport at Rumenes
Wow. 3D climbing!
Rumenes Sport 5.12b On-sight
2016-08-19
2016-08-19
On-sight
Empezamos bien
5.11b Sport at Teverga
Badly bolted at the start. Ground fall from the crux is possible. Sandbagged as well. Shame on you.
Teverga Sport 5.11d (5.11b) On-sight
2016-08-19
2016-08-19
On-sight
Distrito apache
5.11d Sport at Teverga
Nice route. Guessing at date
Teverga Sport 5.12a (5.11d) On-sight
2016-08-19
2016-08-19
Red point
Karicaturas
5.12a Sport at Teverga
Felt like normal 7b+ for me? Guesswork on date.
Teverga Sport 5.12c (5.12a) Red point
2016-07-30
2016-07-30
On-sight
Spacy conasse
5.12a Sport at Rue des masques
Not soft. Reachy and awkward, with lots of blind holds. Not particularly good. Usually there is always wind on this sector, not for us. Another days, another struggle with the heat wave
Rue des masques Sport 5.12b (5.12a) On-sight
2016-07-30
2016-07-30
On-sight
Simondrada
5.12d Sport at Rue des masques
I think the topo mixed up the grades of this and rhe route directly to the left (Cauchemard...). This is probably 7b+ and the left route is probably 7c. Good route anyway. Steep with big holds, plenty of rests and two harder boulder problems
Rue des masques Sport 5.12c (5.12d) On-sight
2016-07-28
2016-07-28
On-sight
Bronzette et Shoping
5.12c Sport at Mont Dauphin
Very Frankenjura-esque. Long lock off on a mono, nice! The boulderproblem start was fairly close to my limit in these conditions... Short strength endurance.
Mont Dauphin Sport 5.12c On-sight
2016-07-28
2016-07-28
On-sight
Les Yeux du Sorcier
5.12c Sport at Mont Dauphin
My fiftieth onsight or flash of a guidebook 7b+. Nice route, much better than it looks. Lots of good positive holds and shake outs. Still above 30 degrees every day. Significantly easier than the other 7b+s I've done or tried on this trip
Mont Dauphin Sport 5.12b (5.12c) On-sight
2016-07-27
2016-07-27
On-sight
Une prise tombée du ciel
5.12c Sport at Fessourier
Finally dry and not too warm. Nice conditions with a breeze! Well worth checking out despite the hassle getting up to the ledge. Short route with lots of good rests, so it should be easy, but it wasn't. A bit tricky to read. Topped out on a guano-infested ledge, so that was exciting.... Two 7b+ onsights in a day, now I'm dead. Last year I did three in a day, unthinkable with current fitness
Fessourier Sport 5.12c On-sight
2016-07-27
2016-07-27
On-sight
Hip hop
5.12c Sport at Fessourier
The struggle with conditions continue... Did this early in the morning, 2h before anyone else showed up. Lots of dew. Not hard but very slippery on top with wet holds. Tricky last bit up to the anchor. Short.
Fessourier Sport 5.12c On-sight
2016-07-25
2016-07-25
On-sight
Jano Integral L3
5.11d Sport at Chemin du Roy
Very good, must be at least 7a+. The easier routes at this sector are sandbags
Chemin du Roy Sport 5.12b (5.11d) On-sight
2016-07-25
2016-07-25
On-sight
Trou d'la balle
5.12c Sport at Chemin du Roy
Wet in the pockets from yesterday's deluge. Big fight
Chemin du Roy Sport 5.12d (5.12c) On-sight
2016-07-14
2016-07-14
On-sight
Margaleff
5.12b Sport at Mont Dauphin
OK.
Mont Dauphin Sport 5.12b On-sight
2016-07-14
2016-07-14
On-sight
Yes Futur
5.12b Sport at Mont Dauphin
OK. Steep and easy (to the second belay). To the first belay it's also steep, but not so easy (tough 6a)
Mont Dauphin Sport 5.12b On-sight
2016-07-14
2016-07-14
On-sight
Bijoux en decomposition
5.12b Sport at Mont Dauphin
Amazing. Very sustained climbing on slightly overhanging terrain.
Mont Dauphin Sport 5.12b On-sight
2016-07-14
2016-07-14
On-sight
Monumental Paradise
5.11d Sport at Mont Dauphin
Fantastic route. 45 m of pure enjoyment. About a gazillion bolt, but 18-19 draws should suffice.
Mont Dauphin Sport 5.11d On-sight
2016-07-14
2016-07-14
On-sight
Donjon R2
5.12a Sport at Mont Dauphin
OK. A bit unbalanced. Quite far to the first anchor (5c) then a few meter of sustained climbing makes it 7a+
Mont Dauphin Sport 5.12a On-sight
2016-07-13
2016-07-13
On-sight
Le Chibre
5.12b Sport at Rue des masques
A good route in two parts. The upper part is harder.
Rue des masques Sport 5.12b On-sight
2016-07-13
2016-07-13
On-sight
Super balls
5.12a Sport at Rue des masques
Good route! No particular crux, just sustained climbing for quite a while.
Rue des masques Sport 5.12a On-sight
2016-07-13
2016-07-13
On-sight
Les prophéties de tronc
5.12a Sport at Rue des masques
Sixth route of the day of this grade or harder. Was really tired, and had to give it all. Nice route. Good climbing all the way.
Rue des masques Sport 5.12a On-sight
2016-07-13
2016-07-13
On-sight
Gugus, tube de l'année
5.12b Sport at Rue des masques
Short power endurance. Good climbing. Seems very popular to judge from the amount of chalk so I thought it was going to be super-soft, but it wasn't.
Rue des masques Sport 5.12b On-sight
2016-07-13
2016-07-13
On-sight
L'affaire du jambon corse
5.12b Sport at Rue des masques
Really good. Sustained climbing on very small holds (for me) in the upper part. Easier than Gugus, tube l'année to the right for me, even if people seems to think the opposite.
Rue des masques Sport 5.12b On-sight
2016-07-04
2016-07-04
On-sight
Aragnafobia
5.12a Sport at Bielsa
Nice route!
Bielsa Sport 5.12a On-sight
2016-07-04
2016-07-04
On-sight
Tout feu, Tout flamme
5.12c Sport at Bielsa
Yeesus. Who bolted this? Double rope or plenty of 60 cm draws. I had the worst rope drag I've had on a sport route, despite brining only medium or long draws and climbing on a 9 mill. Otherwise : brilliant route. But bring only 27cm and 60cm draws and considering climbing with two ropes and drop the first at the intermediate belay (6c+), not that I think that helps too much.
Bielsa Sport 5.12c On-sight
2016-07-03
2016-07-03
On-sight
On mange le pain
5.12a Sport at Bielsa
Good route. Most find this harder than 7a (grade in the new topo). I have no opinion
Bielsa Sport 5.12a On-sight
2016-07-03
2016-07-03
On-sight
Alien Rock
5.11d Sport at Bielsa
Good. 35m, lots of draws. Spanish bolting, not French.
Bielsa Sport 5.11d On-sight
2016-07-02
2016-07-02
On-sight
Talia
5.12a Sport at Bielsa
Great route. A bit runout in places, but far from the worst.
Bielsa Sport 5.12a On-sight
2016-07-02
2016-07-02
Red point
Meuldeur
5.12c Sport at Bielsa
Good route. One of the few upgraded in the new topo. Dirty when I did it, and I stripped a very bad fixed draw in the roof (put in a 27cm draw in the roof or get rope drag from hell). The first pitch is a good 6c+ but *very* sparsly bolted. The first belay had a broken quick-link that I couldn't remove, so pay attention to what you clip in to.
Bielsa Sport 5.12c Red point
2016-06-26
2016-06-26
On-sight
El Violin
5.12b Sport at Bielsa
Hard start. Way easier than Kundalini or Señor Itoiz.
Bielsa Sport 5.12b On-sight
2016-06-26
2016-06-26
On-sight
#22 Sans nom
5.12b Sport at Bielsa
#22 in the new topo. Stiff 6a to the first anchor, then increasingly desperate climbing up to the final roof. Short people might find it tricky to clip the chains. Another long nice route
Bielsa Sport 5.12b On-sight
2016-06-06
2016-06-06
Red point
Quand le blues l'emporte sur la raison
5.13b Sport at St. Léger
Pure long resistance: 27 moves to the good holds. Had a hard time on this. Tried it 2 years ago, when I was in good shape, and could not even one-hang it despite doing the easy 8a on the crag 2nd try. Many tries over three days this time, but it didn't feel particularly hard when I did it. Strange.
St. Léger Sport 5.13b Red point
2016-05-30
2016-05-30
Top rope
Démon
5.12a Sport at Gorges du Verdon
Gorges du Verdon Sport 5.12a Top rope
2016-05-28
2016-05-28
On-sight
Les Caquous
5.11b Sport at Gorges du Verdon
Gorges du Verdon Sport 5.11b On-sight
2016-05-27
2016-05-27
Top rope
Serié Limitée
5.11c Sport at Gorges du Verdon
Gorges du Verdon Sport 5.11c Top rope
2016-05-21
2016-05-21
On-sight
Sex Machine
5.11d Sport at Les Gorges de la Cesse
Les Gorges de la Cesse Sport 5.11d On-sight
2016-05-21
2016-05-21
On-sight
La cavaurgue
5.11d Sport at Les Gorges de la Cesse
Like a granite dihedral.
Les Gorges de la Cesse Sport 5.11d On-sight
2016-05-21
2016-05-21
On-sight
?Liber...?
5.11d Sport at Les Gorges de la Cesse
Les Gorges de la Cesse Sport 5.11d On-sight
2016-04-20
2016-04-20
On-sight
Rêve d'usine
5.12b Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Very good, long stamina route on pockets. Again, with some more traffic this should clean up to be one of the better offerings in the area
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12b On-sight
2016-04-20
2016-04-20
On-sight
Les grandes oreilles
5.12a Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Very nice stamina plod. Not climbed too many times... will improve with some more traffic.
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12a On-sight
2016-04-20
2016-04-20
On-sight
Cachou le croquant
5.10d Sport at Gorges du Tarn
The best 6b in Tarn? I'm not completely convinced it is 6b though...
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.11b (5.10d) On-sight
2016-04-20
2016-04-20
On-sight
La Varicelle d'Isabelle
5.11d Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Has seen some traffic. Slab to Face to overhanging bulge.
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.11d On-sight
2016-04-20
2016-04-20
On-sight
Front de Gauche
5.11d Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Nice route! Buoux-style pocket climbing. The hard part is 15 m in the middle.
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.11d On-sight
2016-04-19
2016-04-19
Red point
Le plaisir qui démonte 
5.12d Sport at Gorges du Tarn
I found this hard and scary. But good. Tick this for now, with the hope that I'll manage the full line in the future. I took a rest after clipping the first belay and tried to do just the 2nd pitch in a oner but fell promptly on the crux. The full line is magnificent!
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12d Red point
2016-04-10
2016-04-10
On-sight
Le Pas De L'ours
5.12c Sport at Ariege
Nice! Originally 7b, and may well be that in Ariège... Very nice moves broken by three ledges (the last one a ten metre deep cave)! Hard to read as the crag was mostly free of chalk after the winter, one or two tick-marks wouldn't have gone amiss....
Ariege Sport 5.12c On-sight
2016-04-10
2016-04-10
Red point
L'oeil du Serpent
5.12b Sport at Ariege
Nails! Extraordinary hard crux for the grade, and not easy after the crux either. Something for the boulder among us. Almost fell on the rp as well!
Ariege Sport 5.12d (5.12b) Red point
2016-03-21
2016-03-21
Red point
Les aîles du désir
5.13b Sport at Gorges du Tarn
World Heritage Route. 50m+ of climbing. NO hard moves. Overhanging all the way. Bolted in true Tarn style: 13 bolts in 50m of climbing. Do or fly. My onsight attempt ended in the latter. Was shaken afterwards and couldn't get to the top on hd. After a more tranquil dogging session it went down, but not without a fight. First attempt after working I tried to warm up on the route, figuring that by the time the crux comes I should be warm enough. BAD idea, as I couldn't climb relaxed enough when the muscles were cold, so I fell on the start of what I assume is the “crux” (two bolts of slightly harder climbing in the middle of a sea of jugs). Then my friend Oriol strolled it, so I had strong incentives to climb it as well, I was quite shaky on final 20m of the route. Chicken-winging etc. I have shockingly bad stamina during the pollen season...
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.13b Red point
2016-03-19
2016-03-19
Red point
Les aîles du désir
5.12c Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Retro flash. I've been on parts of the route before. Tried to onsight the full line to the second anchor, but only got halfway up the second pitch before falling. Feels quite full-on for 7b+?
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12c Red point
2016-02-06
2016-02-06
Red point
Passage à tabac
5.13a Sport at Couyrac
Nice! Quite steep tufa line. Rather on the short side and with a very good rest in the middle followed by a bouldery crux. Originally 8a for some reason.. Not too polished even though the route was put up 1990 and is one of the more popular routes on the sector. Did it 2nd go. There is a pretty hard move on the crux and a bit of duff reading on my part led to total shut-down on the onsight attempt. Went quite smooth on the rp though. A bit wet on some holds, but that's tufa climbing....
Couyrac Sport 5.13a Red point
2015-12-26
2015-12-26
On-sight
Revuelta en el frenopático
5.12c Sport at Chulilla
Since I can only do the warm-ups on this trip... Good technical climbing
Chulilla Sport 5.12c On-sight
2015-12-26
2015-12-26
On-sight
El Ramallar
5.12d Sport at Chulilla
All the chalk tempted me out right to weak man's version (exit right). Checked out the straight up version on top rope. Didn't seem too bad. Dammit. Good route regardless.
Chulilla Sport 5.12d On-sight
2015-12-24
2015-12-24
On-sight
Las caquitas de Nazarten
5.12b Sport at Chulilla
hard. Mostly just hard.
Chulilla Sport 5.12b On-sight
2015-12-24
2015-12-24
On-sight
La paz del borrego
5.12b Sport at Chulilla
Tres cool.
Chulilla Sport 5.12b On-sight
2015-12-23
2015-12-23
On-sight
Sendero luminoso L2 (Right)
5.12b Sport at Chulilla
Brilliant! 55m of varied climbing in increasingly exposed positions. Crux on top. Desert island route.
Chulilla Sport 5.12b On-sight
2015-12-21
2015-12-21
On-sight
Los franceses
5.12c Sport at Chulilla
Puh. Hard warm up. Sandbagged by Erik.
Chulilla Sport 5.12c On-sight
2015-12-12
2015-12-12
Red point
Golpe de Gas
5.13d Sport at Terradets
On my first go of the day my left foot popped off moving to the clipping jug at the anchor. I rested 2h then did it. (On my 4th day of trying though...and the 3rd day of rp-attempts. Dogged it extensively a month ago, and dogged it again on the first day of rp-attempts to put up the draws. On my first rp-attempt I fell above the last draw, and on most attempts I got up to the final “boulder”. I fell a few times at the 6th draw as well on my second day of trying) Excellent route! Solid 8a to the second to last draw, then a small crux to reach the anchors. There are three ways to do the top crux, doing it the hardest way is beyond me (and must be 8b/b+?), doing it with the sneaky double knee-bar seems possible, but I went out right to the grey zone using one of the holds on El Latido
Terradets Sport 5.13d Red point
2015-11-19
2015-11-19
On-sight
La Porte des Champs-Élysées
5.12a Sport at St. Léger
Utterly amazing. One of the best 7a+s I've done in years. VERY runout on the (easy) top slab.
St. Léger Sport 5.12a On-sight
2015-11-19
2015-11-19
On-sight
Fi, flo, floty
5.13a Sport at St. Léger
Very nice. Long but with a distinct, balance dependent, crux section that flows very nicely. Julia hung draws for the first part from the 7b+ to the right, and I'm not sure I would have done it without the clips in place. Almost fell in a couple of places after the crux, so I take 7c+ for it...
St. Léger Sport 5.13a On-sight
2015-11-08
2015-11-08
Red point
Treking
5.13c Sport at Terradets
Hard! Good and varied route. Some big moves and some technical trickery. Not easy up to the final crux which is quite hard. Had about the same amount of tries as on all other 8a+s on the crag combined
Terradets Sport 5.13c Red point
2015-11-05
2015-11-05
Red point
Buen Rollito
5.13c Sport at Collegats
Wet on the low crux, and on the rest after, otherwise dry. Really good route. Pumpy. Almost fell on the top 5c climbing
Collegats Sport 5.13c Red point
2015-08-29
2015-08-29
On-sight
L'heure des chouettes
5.12b Sport at Fessourier
40m. Vertical wall-climbing with rising difficulties. Brilliant really.
Fessourier Sport 5.12b On-sight
2015-08-28
2015-08-28
On-sight
Un monde ailleurs
5.12c Sport at Fessourier
Technical, hard to read.
Fessourier Sport 5.12c On-sight
2015-08-27
2015-08-27
On-sight
Le maillon fort
5.12b Sport at Grand Bois
Very nice
Grand Bois Sport 5.12b On-sight
2015-08-26
2015-08-26
On-sight
L'eté des stars
5.11c Sport at Grand Bois
6c+, est-ce une blague? Hard, scary and airy. Not bad. Except for warm-up for this unsuspecting climber
Grand Bois Sport 5.12b (5.11c) On-sight
2015-08-22
2015-08-22
On-sight
Cause Toujours
5.12b Sport at Fessourier
40m. Awkward climbing for 10-15 m to a ledge, then very sustained crimping up a Siurana-esque orange streak. Wonderful.
Fessourier Sport 5.12c (5.12b) On-sight
2015-08-21
2015-08-21
On-sight
Fil a la patte
5.12c Sport at Fessourier
40 m. Tricky from 2nd to 3rd anchor, but does it really deserve a higher grade?
Fessourier Sport 5.12b (5.12c) On-sight
2015-07-26
2015-07-26
Red point
La shabani
5.13c Sport at Pimaï
Hard. Must be more than one half grade harder than the 8a to the left. Cool sequence on the top head wall. 10+ tries over 4 days.
Pimaï Sport 5.13d (5.13c) Red point
2015-07-18
2015-07-18
Red point
Gravity jump
5.13b Sport at Pimaï
Two cruxes, the rest is easy. Manufactured sequence from the last draw to the anchor (which is still placed in no-mans land)
Pimaï Sport 5.13b Red point
2015-07-16
2015-07-16
Red point
Petite danseuse
5.13c Sport at La Saume / S2 - 2100m
8a in new guidebook.
La Saume / S2 - 2100m Sport 5.13b (5.13c) Red point
2015-07-11
2015-07-11
On-sight
Rase ta pea, Paulo
5.12b Sport at Tournoux
40m. First 34m easy-ish
Tournoux Sport 5.12b On-sight
2015-07-10
2015-07-10
On-sight
Mystical melody
5.12b Sport at Pimaï
Pimaï Sport 5.12b On-sight
2015-07-05
2015-07-05
Red point
Bajame una estrella
5.13a Sport at Cavallers
Crimping at altitude. Vertical granite. Fell/whimped-out-when-I couldn't-hang-the-draw in the middle of the upper crux section on the o/s attempt. Took one day to recover enough for one more attempt...
Cavallers Sport 5.13a Red point
2015-07-03
2015-07-03
On-sight
Ultrakumba
5.11d Sport at Cavallers
Pure friction climbing on granite. I haven't done that in a while!
Cavallers Sport 5.11d On-sight
2015-07-03
2015-07-03
On-sight
Zapping
5.11d Sport at Cavallers
This felt really hard for me? Did I do something stupid?
Cavallers Sport 5.12a (5.11d) On-sight
2015-07-03
2015-07-03
On-sight
Tocats del Bolet
5.12b Sport at Cavallers
Both friction and edging skills needed
Cavallers Sport 5.12b On-sight
2015-05-23
2015-05-23
Red point
Hoy me voy
5.13b Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Somewhat unsurprisingly this was much easier not in full sun during a heat wave. Went down easy in good conditions. Strength endurance on 17 moves to a decent rest, then easier but somewhat fluffable terrain to the top.
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.13b Red point
2015-05-09
2015-05-09
On-sight
Le Schism
5.11d Sport at Gorges du Verdon
6c+/7a, 6b, 6b, 6c, 7a. Two last pitches good.
Gorges du Verdon Sport 5.11d On-sight
2015-05-08
2015-05-08
On-sight
Alix, punk de Vergons
5.12c Sport at Gorges du Verdon
10 pitches. 1) 5+, 2) 7a+, 3) 6c+, 4) 7a+, 5) 7b, 6) 6c+, 7) 6c+, 8) 7b(+), 9) 6c, 10) 7a(+). Team o/s taking around 5.30h. I had the easier load, leading the odd pitches. We had a small backpack with water some flapjacks and rainjackets that we hauled on a few of the pitches. Possibly the best bolted multi pitch route I've done. Every pitch except the first 5b pitch would be a crag classic at any destination.
Gorges du Verdon Sport 5.12c On-sight
2015-05-06
2015-05-06
Top rope
Les Rideaux de Gwendal 
5.12b Sport at Gorges du Verdon
Alt. lead w/ Erik M. Followed the crux pitch with some hangs. The rest in free. The crux is still a sand bag at 7b+
Gorges du Verdon Sport 5.12d (5.12b) Top rope
2015-05-04
2015-05-04
Red point
L'ange en décomposition
5.11d Sport at Gorges du Verdon
Repeat, did it with a hang in wet 2 years ago. Mythic route. A bit polished, super airy, and really really great. Lead 2nd pitch, followed 1 & 3. We started 7.40PM and climbed last pitch in darkness.
Gorges du Verdon Sport 5.11d Red point
2015-05-02
2015-05-02
On-sight
Le Blitx
5.12a Sport at Couyrac
7a/a+ in the guide. Ridiculous. Marginally easier than the 7c-8a routes to the left. Maybe.
Couyrac Sport 5.12c (5.12a) On-sight
2015-05-02
2015-05-02
Red point
Abacua
5.13b Sport at Couyrac
Really bad conditions, super humid. Slipped off on last move on the second go, felt much harder on the third go
Couyrac Sport 5.13b Red point
2015-04-20
2015-04-20
On-sight
Xarrup
5.13a Sport at Tres Ponts
Putting in the draws
Tres Ponts Sport 5.13a On-sight
2015-04-03
2015-04-03
On-sight
Directa a la Visera
5.12b Sport at Riglos
Rebolted in 2010 and went from a chop route to a super safe route. Less polished then the classics but really good
Riglos Sport 5.12b On-sight
2015-04-01
2015-04-01
On-sight
Murciana
5.11b Sport at Riglos
Definitely a step up from Fiesta in terms of difficulty.
Riglos Sport 5.11d (5.11b) On-sight
2015-03-31
2015-03-31
On-sight
Fiesta de los Biceps
5.11d Sport at Riglos
World classic.
Riglos Sport 5.11d On-sight
2015-03-15
2015-03-15
On-sight
Queda usted suspendido
5.12b Sport at Montserrat
Montserrat Sport 5.12b On-sight
2015-03-15
2015-03-15
Flash
Pit i collons
5.12b Sport at Montserrat
L2. My gf put up the draws, but only to the 1st anchor. She didn't tell me that there was a second pitch, and when I got to the first anchor I didn't want to stop: the climbing was so nice. I had only a draw and a locking biner for the second pitch (5 bolts). Spicy!
Montserrat Sport 5.12b Flash
2015-03-13
2015-03-13
On-sight
El Muscle Tambe Pesa
5.12b Sport at Montgrony
Montgrony Sport 5.12b On-sight
2015-03-08
2015-03-08
Flash
Planete causse
5.12a Sport at Gorges du Tarn
25°C in the shade, if there had been any. First day of summer, before we have had any spring...
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12b (5.12a) Flash
2015-02-23
2015-02-23
On-sight
Avatar
5.12d Sport at Siurana
38m.Thuggish start to technical and vertical to thuggish and vertical. Very good with a thank God mono at the top!
Siurana Sport 5.12d On-sight
2015-02-23
2015-02-23
On-sight
Anys Biònics
5.12c Sport at Siurana
Another long good route. Technical and sustained.
Siurana Sport 5.12c On-sight
2015-02-18
2015-02-18
Red point
Kameleon
5.12d Sport at Racó de Missa, Monsant
Practically o/s. "2nd go". My first go was a failed o/s attempt 3 years ago that ended halfway up. Really good route. Well worth seeking out. Vertical, 45 m, very sustained. Somewhat runout on top.
Racó de Missa, Monsant Sport 5.12d Red point
2015-02-17
2015-02-17
On-sight
El Menjapindula
5.12b Sport at Siurana
Stop and go for 30 m. Worth doing.
Siurana Sport 5.12b On-sight
2015-02-17
2015-02-17
On-sight
Peixa
5.13a Sport at Siurana
Very steep and (very) short. The only 7 on the wall is almost like an indoor route, and probably the easiest-to-read route in all of Siurana? The sprint to the anchor was the most pleasing part.
Siurana Sport 5.13a On-sight
2015-02-16
2015-02-16
On-sight
Noia nom
5.12d Sport at Siurana
Another good route on Primavera. Turn on the crimp and don't hesitate!
Siurana Sport 5.12d On-sight
2015-02-07
2015-02-07
Red point
Los taquos de los dos rigolos
5.13b Sport at Saint-Géry
One of the best routes I've done and an epic fight. 6 days of attempts over two years, not always in decent condition but still... 35m, first part of the route crimy, sustained and slightly overhanging for 20 moves. The second part steeper, crux to jug, crux to jug etc until final & hardest crux (condition depending) at the apex of the wall.
Saint-Géry Sport 5.13b Red point
2015-02-03
2015-02-03
Red point
Tirabolts
5.13c Sport at Terradets
A bit more powerful than most easy eights in Bruixes. Avoid if you don't like yarding on monos, otherwise highly recommende!
Terradets Sport 5.13c Red point
2015-01-18
2015-01-18
On-sight
Le café et l'addition
5.12b Sport at Saint-Géry
A bit runout
Saint-Géry Sport 5.12b On-sight
2015-01-04
2015-01-04
On-sight
Arquée Pieds Tendre
5.12c Sport at St. Léger
Very good, quite long. High quality rock
St. Léger Sport 5.12c On-sight
2014-12-31
2014-12-31
Flash
La Temple de la Méduse
5.12b Sport at St. Léger
A good route. Thanks to Magnus E for beta
St. Léger Sport 5.12b Flash
2014-12-30
2014-12-30
On-sight
Dresden
5.12a Sport at Buoux
Nice. Not as runout as Elbsandsteingebirge by far, but a bit Dresden-esque maybe
Buoux Sport 5.12a On-sight
2014-11-12
2014-11-12
On-sight
Los merenderas
5.12b Sport at Chulilla
Chulilla Sport 5.12c (5.12b) On-sight
2014-11-12
2014-11-12
On-sight
Hipotermia
5.12d Sport at Chulilla
A few intense metres of climbing
Chulilla Sport 5.12d On-sight
2014-11-10
2014-11-10
On-sight
Nibelungalos
5.12d Sport at Chulilla
Good route, but it is starting to get really polished.
Chulilla Sport 5.12d On-sight
2014-11-09
2014-11-09
On-sight
Los Caminantes L1
5.12b Sport at Chulilla
High gravity day. Freaked out and grabbed a draw on the second pitch:(. Mental 58m (first pitch only 30-35 m)
Chulilla Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-11-09
2014-11-09
On-sight
Danos colaterales
5.12c Sport at Chulilla
A bit polished. Tricky face-climbing
Chulilla Sport 5.12c On-sight
2014-11-01
2014-11-01
On-sight
Les prémices de la chicorée
5.12d Sport at La Croix
35m. Resistance.
La Croix Sport 5.12d On-sight
2014-11-01
2014-11-01
On-sight
L'espoir est à vendre
5.12c Sport at La Croix
40m. One of the best tufa routes I've done.
La Croix Sport 5.12c On-sight
2014-10-25
2014-10-25
On-sight
Le P.P (L2)
5.12c Sport at La Croix
Quite sandy. Not much climbed. Accessed via the first pitch of the route the right and with the help of two long slings the rope drag was not too bad
La Croix Sport 5.12c On-sight
2014-10-25
2014-10-25
On-sight
Nameless One right of Le P.P
5.12c Sport at La Croix
Very good. My 100th logged onsight of a 7b-or-harder route!
La Croix Sport 5.12c On-sight
2014-10-25
2014-10-25
On-sight
Mistral Gagnant (L1+L2)
5.12c Sport at La Croix
Hardest of the three side by side 7b+. Longest as well ≈ 45 m
La Croix Sport 5.12c On-sight
2014-10-22
2014-10-22
Red point
Les nouvelles plantations du Christ
5.13a Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Fell on the onsight 3-4 weeks before. Alas, totally screwed up 2nd pitch this time, so only to the first anchor.
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.13a Red point
2014-10-20
2014-10-20
On-sight
Faites le mur pas la guerre
5.12b Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-09-28
2014-09-28
On-sight
Pyromania
5.13a Sport at Gorges du Tarn
50m. No hard moves. One of the best. Airy runout to the chains, with spicy last move. Soft? Of course! All the best ones are!
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.13a On-sight
2014-09-28
2014-09-28
On-sight
Grandeur Nature
5.12b Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Very nice. Steep climbing on jugs
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-09-27
2014-09-27
Red point
Priez pour nous L1
5.13c Sport at Gorges du Tarn
About one bazillion tries, most of theme done in full summer heat. This was much easier for me when it was 24°C than when it was 33°.
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.13c Red point
2014-09-13
2014-09-13
On-sight
Noir desir
5.12b Sport at Gorges du Tarn
WOW. Super beau.
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-09-08
2014-09-08
On-sight
Une Marie pour deux
5.12a Sport at Gorges du Tarn
41m. Gets within a meter of the ground with an uncut 80m rope. Very very good. A must do.
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12a On-sight
2014-09-07
2014-09-07
On-sight
Une colonne derrière les verrous
5.12c Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Super hot for september 30°C and not much wind. Impossible to climb something harder. 7b+ in the guidebook, but a very easy one in that case. Quite runout.
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12b (5.12c) On-sight
2014-08-31
2014-08-31
On-sight
Vite fait, bien fait
5.12c Sport at St. Léger
Hard and quite short. Proud to onsight this.
St. Léger Sport 5.12c On-sight
2014-08-28
2014-08-28
On-sight
Voilà l'Été
5.12b Sport at St. Léger
St. Léger Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-08-27
2014-08-27
On-sight
Les Rifougneurs Ext.
5.12d Sport at St. Léger
First time I onsighted a 7c without getting any pump whatsoever. Make what you want of that...
St. Léger Sport 5.12d On-sight
2014-08-27
2014-08-27
On-sight
N'oublie pas ton blaireau
5.12b Sport at St. Léger
St. Léger Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-08-25
2014-08-25
Red point
Bille de clown
5.12b Sport at St. Léger
Tried it a month before in 33°C. Easier now, but still much harder than both 7b+ to the left.
St. Léger Sport 5.12d (5.12b) Red point
2014-08-24
2014-08-24
On-sight
Joe's Rasnugueth Manettes
5.12b Sport at St. Léger
St. Léger Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-08-24
2014-08-24
On-sight
Les clowns
5.12d Sport at St. Léger
One of the best routes I've done. 35m, and every single hold and every single move is nice. Hard, and quite hard to put in the draws on the middle part
St. Léger Sport 5.12d On-sight
2014-08-22
2014-08-22
On-sight
Soft Connerie
5.12b Sport at St. Léger
St. Léger Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-08-22
2014-08-22
Red point
Black mamba
5.13b Sport at St. Léger
3rd go. Should have done it 2nd go but screwed up after the crux. Did it today, putting in the clips as I went. Very soft touch I think.
St. Léger Sport 5.13a (5.13b) Red point
2014-08-20
2014-08-20
On-sight
Tenue Correcte Exigée
5.12a Sport at St. Léger
Hard
St. Léger Sport 5.12a On-sight
2014-08-12
2014-08-12
On-sight
Lapinerie
5.12b Sport at Céüse
Céüse Sport 5.12a (5.12b) On-sight
2014-07-26
2014-07-26
On-sight
Dieu S'est Trompe L'adresse
5.12b Sport at St. Léger
7a+ in the guide. Locals say 7b, but considering how hard som of the 7s are for the grade in this sector (Baleine) ... it should probably be 7a... Anyway. Pretty amazing route all considered. Doesn't look that good from the ground, but looks can deceive. This one is pretty much world-class.
St. Léger Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-07-22
2014-07-22
On-sight
Roland Culet
5.12c Sport at St. Léger
Hard enough in full summer
St. Léger Sport 5.12c On-sight
2014-07-14
2014-07-14
On-sight
Le Petit Massoro
5.11a Sport at Gorges du Tarn
one of the best!
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.11a On-sight
2014-07-14
2014-07-14
On-sight
El diablo perverso
5.12b Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Scrappy rock at the start. Steep and supercool. Fun runout to the chains
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-07-14
2014-07-14
Red point
Jour de peuf
5.13b Sport at Gorges du Tarn
2nd go.... sort of. Bouldery
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.13b Red point
2014-07-13
2014-07-13
On-sight
Prise de Carre
5.12b Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-07-13
2014-07-13
On-sight
T'a pas un nom
5.12a Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12a On-sight
2014-07-11
2014-07-11
Red point
Monstre Trou
5.12d Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Hard for me. Too steep!
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12d Red point
2014-06-27
2014-06-27
On-sight
San John's pecos
5.12c Sport at Céüse
Beautiful line! Doesn't climb as well as it looks, at least not for me. Vertical with a bulge on top. I did the crux the worst possible way probably. Oh well. I got away with it this time.
Céüse Sport 5.12c On-sight
2014-06-27
2014-06-27
On-sight
Blocage Violent
5.12c Sport at Céüse
Hard. And it was hard to put the clips in. Lots of effort on this, I don't think I've ever been that close to falling off, without actually falling off, on an onsight.
Céüse Sport 5.12c On-sight
2014-06-26
2014-06-26
On-sight
Cent patates
5.12c Sport at Céüse
7b in the new guidebook
Céüse Sport 5.12b (5.12c) On-sight
2014-06-23
2014-06-23
On-sight
Super Regletas
5.12a Sport at Bielsa
41m
Bielsa Sport 5.12a On-sight
2014-06-22
2014-06-22
On-sight
Du Sel dans les Plaies
5.11d Sport at Bielsa
Bielsa Sport 5.11d On-sight
2014-06-22
2014-06-22
On-sight
Carlito
5.12a Sport at Bielsa
Bielsa Sport 5.12a On-sight
2014-06-22
2014-06-22
On-sight
El Señor de Itoiz
5.12c Sport at Bielsa
Bielsa Sport 5.12c On-sight
2014-06-15
2014-06-15
On-sight
Joe Bar Team L1
5.12c Sport at Bielsa
Fell on pitch2 for some unfathomable reason. Oh well
Bielsa Sport 5.12c On-sight
2014-06-13
2014-06-13
On-sight
A Tchao
5.12a Sport at Bielsa
Bielsa Sport 5.12a On-sight
2014-06-13
2014-06-13
On-sight
Kundalili
5.12d Sport at Bielsa
Bielsa Sport 5.12c (5.12d) On-sight
2014-06-13
2014-06-13
On-sight
La Soupe auz Choux
5.11d Sport at Bielsa
Unnamed 7b in the topo. Not 7b, and I think I have the right name. 2 routes left of Carlito
Bielsa Sport 5.11d On-sight
2014-06-13
2014-06-13
On-sight
La Balade
5.12a Sport at Bielsa
30 degrees, no wind, humid. At least it's in the shade. .. Good climbing up to the first anchor (6b). 2nd pitch has somewhat spaced bolting, good if you're fairly solid on the grade.
Bielsa Sport 5.12a On-sight
2014-06-13
2014-06-13
On-sight
Bicho L2
5.12b Sport at Bielsa
Bielsa Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-06-08
2014-06-08
Red point
Living Color
5.12d Sport at Gorges du Tarn
2nd go, 31 °C in the shade.
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12d Red point
2014-06-01
2014-06-01
On-sight
Fuck the Curve
5.12a Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12a On-sight
2014-06-01
2014-06-01
On-sight
L'Australopithique du Samedi
5.12a Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12b (5.12a) On-sight
2014-06-01
2014-06-01
On-sight
What the fuck today
5.12b Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-05-25
2014-05-25
On-sight
Les couilles au cul
5.11d Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.11d On-sight
2014-05-25
2014-05-25
On-sight
Mon dide
5.12b Sport at Gorges du Tarn
38m
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-05-25
2014-05-25
Red point
Arachnide
5.12d Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Second go after o/s attempt. Not particularly close on the onsight sadly.
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12d Red point
2014-05-02
2014-05-02
On-sight
The Far Faders West
5.12b Sport at Rodellar - Mascún
Rodellar - Mascún Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-04-19
2014-04-19
On-sight
Over the Topinambours
5.12c Sport at Dentelles de Montmirail
Dentelles de Montmirail Sport 5.12c On-sight
2014-04-19
2014-04-19
On-sight
Le Zèbre
5.11d Sport at Dentelles de Montmirail
Dentelles de Montmirail Sport 5.12b (5.11d) On-sight
2014-04-13
2014-04-13
On-sight
Le trésor du zèbre
5.11d Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Very nice. Well worth doing, despite being quite short.
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.11d On-sight
2014-04-13
2014-04-13
Red point
Planète groove
5.13a Sport at Gorges du Tarn
Quite alright really. Not super classique. Very close on onsight with a really bad sequence. Low-point on next attemped with the same sequence, sorted out the sequence then did it next try
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.13a Red point
2014-04-12
2014-04-12
On-sight
La veuve noire
5.12b Sport at Gorges du Tarn
To second anchor. Dirty and exciting. Had to brush off sand on some holds on lead... Took me forever
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-03-29
2014-03-29
On-sight
Mack in teuch
5.12a Sport at Alliat
Alliat Sport 5.12a On-sight
2014-03-29
2014-03-29
On-sight
Globe trotter
5.12c Sport at Alliat
My desert island route.
Alliat Sport 5.12c On-sight
2014-03-12
2014-03-12
On-sight
Inferno
5.10d Traditional at Wadi Rum
Wadi Rum Traditional 5.10d On-sight
2014-03-02
2014-03-02
On-sight
Prise directe
5.12b Sport at Le Boffi
44 m. Vertical.
Le Boffi Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-03-02
2014-03-02
On-sight
Mac du mal
5.12a Sport at Le Boffi
Le Boffi Sport 5.12a On-sight
2014-03-01
2014-03-01
On-sight
Omar m'a tuer
5.12b Sport at Gorges du Tarn
FUck. COoolD! I froze my fingers off. Buggered of to Millau.
Gorges du Tarn Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-02-25
2014-02-25
On-sight
Rosanna et les arquettes
5.12c Sport at Saint-Géry
Approximate date. More b+ than b to me.
Saint-Géry Sport 5.12c On-sight
2014-02-22
2014-02-22
On-sight
Microline
5.12b Sport at Ardeche
40 m vertical
Ardeche Sport 5.12b On-sight
2014-02-22
2014-02-22
Red point
Lueur
5.13a Sport at Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val
12 moves from 1990
Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val Sport 5.13b (5.13a) Red point
2014-02-02
2014-02-02
Red point
L'Adrecador
5.13c Sport at Terradets
Terradets Sport 5.13c Red point
2014-02-01
2014-02-01
On-sight
Final Felic
5.12a Sport at Camarasa
Miserable weather. 5° and a light drizzle
Camarasa Sport 5.12a On-sight
2014-01-26
2014-01-26
Red point
Flix Flax
5.13c Sport at Terradets
5th try of the day, 8th try of the weekend…. This redpoint thing is difficult!
Terradets Sport 5.13c Red point
2014-01-02
2014-01-02
Red point
El marginao
5.12d Sport at Arboli
Went the wrong way on top on the onsight go, fell without being pumped... bitter... Nice second half. The first half is approx 7a+ and not so good, the second half is fun with an interesting run out to the anchors.
Arboli Sport 5.12d Red point
2013-12-31
2013-12-31
Red point
Charridangersch
5.12a Sport at El Falco
El Falco Sport 5.12a Red point
2013-12-31
2013-12-31
On-sight
L'Aranya Negra
5.12b Sport at El Falco
Slabby and cruxy. Good shoes not needed.
El Falco Sport 5.12b On-sight
2013-12-31
2013-12-31
On-sight
Per Tutatis
5.11d Sport at El Falco
Might have done it 2 years before. High end 7a+. 7a is taking the piss imho
El Falco Sport 5.12b (5.11d) On-sight
2013-12-31
2013-12-31
On-sight
Excalibur
5.12d Sport at El Falco
Slab! Get your crimp on!
El Falco Sport 5.12d On-sight
2013-12-30
2013-12-30
Red point
Orient
5.13a Sport at Terradets
The top holds were full of sands. I pitched off at the anchor. I take the tick anyway. So there.
Terradets Sport 5.13a Red point
2013-12-30
2013-12-30
Red point
Energia Positiva
5.13a Sport at Terradets
Terradets Sport 5.13a Red point
2013-08-21
2013-08-21
On-sight
Unknown
5.12a Sport at Dévers du Sédour
Dévers du Sédour Sport 5.12a On-sight
2013-07-31
2013-07-31
On-sight
Pan
5.11a Traditional at Geitvika
Basically a face- climb for climbers with my finger size
Geitvika Traditional 5.11a On-sight
2013-07-26
2013-07-26
Red point
Butterarms
5.13a Traditional at Paradiset
7c/c+. A fine route, well protected and steep crack. A little bit too bouldery. Guidebook is wrong about small cams. I didn't place anything smaller than a .5 camalot, and had more than one bomber piece for each body length.
Paradiset Traditional 5.13a Red point
2013-07-26
2013-07-26
Red point
Dosethrisset
5.11c Traditional at Paradiset
Nice, but a bit daft eliminate route. (It feels stupid and silly to avoid the flake, but that's the rule :() For my finger- (and arm-) size this is not easier than Butter arms.
Paradiset Traditional 5.11c Red point
2013-06-30
2013-06-30
On-sight
Rol de Rorros
5.13b Sport at Berga
Berga Sport 5.13b On-sight
2013-06-27
2013-06-27
On-sight
Sex, salut y St Llorenc
5.12b Sport at Sant Llorenç del Munt
Worst conditions ever. One of my proudest onsights
Sant Llorenç del Munt Sport 5.12b On-sight
2013-06-24
2013-06-24
Red point
Tope Gama
5.12d Sport at Rodellar - Mascún
Rodellar - Mascún Sport 5.13a (5.12d) Red point
2013-06-22
2013-06-22
Red point
Aquest Any Si
5.12c Sport at Rodellar - Mascún
Rodellar - Mascún Sport 5.12c Red point
2013-06-22
2013-06-22
Red point
Caprichos de Lujuria
5.12b Sport at Rodellar - Mascún
Rodellar - Mascún Sport 5.12b Red point
2013-06-22
2013-06-22
On-sight
Caco, que te mato
5.12b Sport at Rodellar - Mascún
Rodellar - Mascún Sport 5.12b On-sight
2013-06-16
2013-06-16
On-sight
Rinovirus 
5.11d Sport at Riugreixer
Riugreixer Sport 5.11d On-sight
2013-06-16
2013-06-16
On-sight
Violència de Gènere
5.12b Sport at Riugreixer
40m route w/ many cruxes. Tricky to climb the top w/ no tick marks. Probably fluffed the sequence on the crux though...
Riugreixer Sport 5.12c (5.12b) On-sight
2013-06-11
2013-06-11
On-sight
Instint Salvatage
5.12c Sport at Tres Ponts
Tres Ponts Sport 5.12c On-sight
2013-06-09
2013-06-09
Red point
Via del Quicu
5.12d Sport at Sant Llorenç del Munt
Why I fell on top on the onsight attempt I'll never know.
Sant Llorenç del Munt Sport 5.12d Red point
2013-06-09
2013-06-09
Red point
Yo Claudio
5.13b Sport at Sant Llorenç del Munt
Very soft they say. Not so for me. I had a gazillion tries however. Fell at the roof in the end 3 times...
Sant Llorenç del Munt Sport 5.13b Red point
2013-06-03
2013-06-03
Red point
Espacio, amor y locura
5.13b Sport at Sant Llorenç del Munt
In the wet fog. 3rd go. Horrible conditions. Loads of drilled pockets but very nice moves. Physical.
Sant Llorenç del Munt Sport 5.13b Red point
2013-06-01
2013-06-01
Red point
Fenaskistiskopi
5.12d Sport at Sant Llorenç del Munt
2nd go. Slimed of the grease on the onsight.
Sant Llorenç del Munt Sport 5.12d Red point
2013-05-30
2013-05-30
Red point
Paula
5.13c Sport at Montserrat
Old school. Fuck yeah. 8th try for the day.... 3rd day... Not easy for me.
Montserrat Sport 5.13c Red point
2013-05-28
2013-05-28
On-sight
Omerta
5.12d Sport at Montserrat
Gränslandet till flash. Tröstpris efter att jag kom nära, så nära att göra Paula.
Montserrat Sport 5.12d On-sight
2013-05-26
2013-05-26
On-sight
Juan y Fran se nos Van
5.12a Sport at Rodellar - Mascún
Rodellar - Mascún Sport 5.12a On-sight
2013-05-26
2013-05-26
On-sight
Cañita Brava
5.12b Sport at Rodellar - Mascún
b/b+
Rodellar - Mascún Sport 5.12b On-sight
2013-05-25
2013-05-25
On-sight
La Bruja de Blair
5.12a Sport at Rodellar - Mascún
Rodellar - Mascún Sport 5.12b (5.12a) On-sight
2013-05-20
2013-05-20
On-sight
Can-talobos
5.12b Sport at Chulilla
Chulilla Sport 5.12b On-sight
2013-05-20
2013-05-20
On-sight
Dale duro negro
5.12c Sport at Chulilla
horribly bolted. Shame on you bolter
Chulilla Sport 5.12c On-sight
2013-05-19
2013-05-19
On-sight
Plan Z
5.11d Sport at Chulilla
Chulilla Sport 5.11d On-sight
2013-05-19
2013-05-19
On-sight
La miguel gomez
5.12a Sport at Chulilla
Chulilla Sport 5.12a On-sight
2013-05-19
2013-05-19
On-sight
Animula vagula blandula
5.12b Sport at Chulilla
Chulilla Sport 5.12a (5.12b) On-sight
2013-05-19
2013-05-19
Red point
Rescate en el oasis
5.12c Sport at Chulilla
2nd go. Weird and wrong bolting
Chulilla Sport 5.12c Red point
2013-05-18
2013-05-18
On-sight
Top of the rock
5.11d Sport at Chulilla
Chulilla Sport 5.11d On-sight
2013-05-16
2013-05-16
On-sight
Kurt Albert
5.12c Sport at Montserrat
55 m. I thought it was 40. Ran out of quickdraws 4 bolts from top. Un-chalked and slightly wet.
Montserrat Sport 5.12b (5.12c) On-sight
2013-05-12
2013-05-12
On-sight
Cárcel Racional
5.12b Sport at Rodellar - Mascún
Vertical. Good warm up
Rodellar - Mascún Sport 5.11c (5.12b) On-sight
2013-05-10
2013-05-10
On-sight
El Incal
5.12a Sport at Rodellar - Mascún
Verdon-esque 6c
Rodellar - Mascún Sport 5.12a On-sight
2013-05-10
2013-05-10
Red point
El Clan de los m'Klau
5.12c Sport at Rodellar - Mascún
2nd go
Rodellar - Mascún Sport 5.12d (5.12c) Red point
2013-05-09
2013-05-09
On-sight
Policieros Secretivos
5.12b Sport at Montserrat
Montserrat Sport 5.12b On-sight
2013-05-07
2013-05-07
On-sight
Judas Iscarote
5.12c Sport at Montserrat
Montserrat Sport 5.12c On-sight
2013-04-22
2013-04-22
On-sight
Reina Abeja
5.12b Sport at Sant Llorenç del Munt
dunno date
Sant Llorenç del Munt Sport 5.12b On-sight
2013-04-18
2013-04-18
Red point
Dresden
5.12d Sport at Sant Llorenç del Munt
Pumped out after the crux on the o/s attempt. 2nd go
Sant Llorenç del Munt Sport 5.12d Red point
2013-04-13
2013-04-13
On-sight
Populus
5.11d Sport at Siurana
40 m. One of the best low 7s in Catalunya. Runout.
Siurana Sport 5.11d On-sight
2013-04-13
2013-04-13
On-sight
La morena del Montsant
5.12a Sport at Siurana
Siurana bolt debate.... Three bolts smashed and replaced with one fixed thread on a time glass and one around a chock stone. (Where it shares climbing with the original route on Cargol I believe). Fantastic route that is well worth doing, but Costelletes Verdes and Populus on the same face are slighly better
Siurana Sport 5.12a On-sight
2013-04-13
2013-04-13
On-sight
Cargol Treu Banya
5.11d Sport at Siurana
OK warm-up.
Siurana Sport 5.11d On-sight
2013-04-13
2013-04-13
On-sight
Solos a solas
5.12d Sport at Siurana
Soft of course, but I suppose you get some extra grade boost for the runouts. 12 bolts in 38 m.
Siurana Sport 5.12d On-sight
2013-04-10
2013-04-10
Red point
El prado del rey
5.12c Sport at Siurana
Hard as .... 4 tries spread over 2 years...
Siurana Sport 5.12c Red point
2013-03-20
2013-03-20
Red point
Inframundo
5.12c Sport at Montserrat
Luck-based scrittle. OK route, but loads of bad rock and lots of cement on this
Montserrat Sport 5.12c Red point
2013-03-18
2013-03-18
On-sight
no 80 Vermell - Esquerra
5.12c Sport at Montserrat
left of "En boca cerrada...". Pure mid strength endurance on pockets. Put in the clips, not much chalk, still felt easy
Montserrat Sport 5.12c On-sight
2013-03-18
2013-03-18
Red point
Komando Entrecot
5.12c Sport at Montserrat
Long. Slightly boring first half. Really pumpy second half. Hard 7b+?
Montserrat Sport 5.12c Red point
2013-03-12
2013-03-12
On-sight
Sessió Digital
5.12c Sport at Montserrat
Montserrat Sport 5.12c On-sight
2013-03-12
2013-03-12
On-sight
no 26 vermell
5.12b Sport at Montserrat
Montserrat Sport 5.12b On-sight
2013-03-02
2013-03-02
On-sight
Ara Pla
Warm up. Only send for the day too.
Montsant - El Racó de Missa Sport 5.12a On-sight
2013-02-21
2013-02-21
On-sight
ATP (R2)
5.12d Sport at Masriudoms
till 2a ankaret. (8a till tredje & 8b till fjärde)
Masriudoms Sport 5.12d On-sight
2013-02-14
2013-02-14
On-sight
Remena Nena
5.11d Sport at Siurana
I had a hard time on this one
Siurana Sport 5.11d On-sight
2013-02-12
2013-02-12
Red point
Amor suprem
5.12b Sport at Gelida
Failed on the o/s a few weeks ago. Not a good warm up.
Gelida Sport 5.12c (5.12b) Red point
2013-02-03
2013-02-03
On-sight
Mindundi
Steep as fuck. Some say 7c
Margalef, Racó de les Espadelles Sport 5.12c On-sight
2013-02-02
2013-02-02
On-sight
La Muerte del Sponsor
5.12c Sport at Siurana
Had some minimal beta from Julia, but as usual that's worse than having no beta.
Siurana Sport 5.12c On-sight
2013-01-25
2013-01-25
Red point
Memorias de una sepia
5.13b Sport at Siurana
Siurana Sport 5.13b Red point
2013-01-23
2013-01-23
Red point
Chi chi cha cha
5.12d Sport at Gelida
2nd go.
Gelida Sport 5.12d Red point
2013-01-23
2013-01-23
Red point
Amb la boca plena de sika
5.13b Sport at Gelida
Never climbed any other 8 that suited me so bad... Chi chi 5 meter to the left felt like at least one full number easier...
Gelida Sport 5.13b Red point
2013-01-20
2013-01-20
Flash
Ninotauro
5.12b Sport at Montserrat
Superb. Pumpy.
Montserrat Sport 5.12b Flash
2013-01-20
2013-01-20
Red point
Directa a la jugular
5.12c Sport at Montserrat
Best mid 7 I've done in Montserrat
Montserrat Sport 5.12c Red point
2013-01-18
2013-01-18
On-sight
No ho se
5.12b Sport at Gelida
Gelida Sport 5.12b On-sight
2013-01-18
2013-01-18
On-sight
Ka No 
5.12a Sport at Gelida
Gelida Sport 5.12a On-sight
2012-11-28
2012-11-28
On-sight
Menganos
5.12a Sport at Montserrat
Very nice jug-race
Montserrat Sport 5.12a On-sight
2012-11-28
2012-11-28
Red point
Yo soy reborde
5.12d Sport at Montserrat
2nd go. Vertical, would prob have onsighted if foothold hadn't crumbled.
Montserrat Sport 5.12d Red point
2012-11-28
2012-11-28
On-sight
Fulanos
5.12b Sport at Montserrat
Cool short pe on pockets. Spectacular moves.
Montserrat Sport 5.12b On-sight
2012-11-28
2012-11-28
On-sight
Txusma
5.12b Sport at Montserrat
Scruffy middle part. Held together with sika. For now...
Montserrat Sport 5.12a (5.12b) On-sight
2012-11-28
2012-11-28
On-sight
Randy Mamola
5.12b Sport at Montserrat
Cool arete.
Montserrat Sport 5.12b On-sight
2012-11-28
2012-11-28
On-sight
El savi del Vilatrista
5.10d Sport at Montserrat
Montserrat Sport 5.10d On-sight
2012-11-22
2012-11-22
Red point
?19 direct version
5.13a Sport at Gelida
I climbed what was described as "Amb la boca..." in the Rockfax mini-guide, according to local topo I climbed a direct version of an unknown 7c/c+. It felt like 8a, but what do I know? For future reference, use this instead of the Rockfax thing: http://skalada.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/gelida-centre2.jpg
Gelida Sport 5.13b (5.13a) Red point
2012-10-28
2012-10-28
Red point
Oriol
5.13a Sport at Montserrat
Yo-yo style from no hands ledge
Montserrat Sport 5.13a Red point
2012-10-16
2012-10-16
On-sight
Tàctica
5.11d Sport at Montserrat
Fun and fingery.
Montserrat Sport 5.11d On-sight
2012-10-16
2012-10-16
Red point
Trinxats
5.12d Sport at Montserrat
Vertical to slabby. Failed to o/s. 2RP. Fun tricky and fingery. Siuranastyle with more crimpers than usual for Montserrat
Montserrat Sport 5.12d Red point
2012-10-14
2012-10-14
Flash
O3
5.11d Sport at Rodellar - Mascún
Vertical, slightly run-out, and only 25 m long. Nice change!
Rodellar - Mascún Sport 5.11d Flash
2012-10-14
2012-10-14
On-sight
Pequeno Pablo
5.12a Sport at Rodellar - Mascún
Arms malfunctioning.... Very pumpy on huge holds. End of the weekend
Rodellar - Mascún Sport 5.12b (5.12a) On-sight
2012-10-13
2012-10-13
On-sight
Pire en el Fire
5.11d Sport at Rodellar - Mascún
I may have read it wrong, but this felt harder than both 7b+ I did at the same sector.
Rodellar - Mascún Sport 5.12b (5.11d) On-sight
2012-10-13
2012-10-13
On-sight
María Ponte el Arnés
5.12c Sport at Rodellar - Mascún
Very soft? I think?
Rodellar - Mascún Sport 5.12b (5.12c) On-sight
2012-10-13
2012-10-13
On-sight
Pince Sans Rire
5.12c Sport at Rodellar - Mascún
Slightly scary to hang the draws on this one.
Rodellar - Mascún Sport 5.12c On-sight
2012-09-21
2012-09-21
Red point
Matrix - Klička
5.11c Partially... at Teplice
Teplice Partially... 5.12a (5.11c) Red point
2012-09-21
2012-09-21
On-sight
Stroboskop - Martinské stĕny
5.11b Traditional at Teplice
Teplice Traditional 5.11b On-sight
2012-09-20
2012-09-20
On-sight
Endoskop - Prilepek
5.11a Sport at Teplice
Teplice Sport 5.11a On-sight
2012-09-20
2012-09-20
On-sight
Some bolted thing along the path
5.10b Traditional at Teplice
Some bolted thing along the main Path in Teplice. 3 bolts 20 m. The Grade is pure guesswork.
Teplice Traditional 5.10b On-sight
2012-09-20
2012-09-20
On-sight
Prásknutí bičem - Věž Jardy Berana
5.11a Traditional at Teplice
Teplice Traditional 5.11a On-sight
2012-09-20
2012-09-20
Top rope
Převislá - Věž přátelství
5.10d Traditional at Teplice
Teplice Traditional 5.10d Top rope
2012-09-20
2012-09-20
Top rope
Gotická hrana - Martinské stěny
5.10b Traditional at Teplice
Teplice Traditional 5.10b Top rope
2012-09-18
2012-09-18
On-sight
Stará cesta - Starosta
5.10a Traditional at Adrspach
Adrspach Traditional 5.10a On-sight
2012-09-17
2012-09-17
Top rope
Zapadni - Podzihi
5.9 Traditional at Adrspach
Adrspach Traditional 5.9 Top rope
2012-09-17
2012-09-17
On-sight
Udulni - Kuzel
5.10c Partially... at Adrspach
Adrspach Partially... 5.10c On-sight
2012-09-17
2012-09-17
Top rope
AW - Maják
5.9 Traditional at Adrspach
Adrspach Traditional 5.9 Top rope
2012-09-17
2012-09-17
On-sight
Udulni - Majak
5.10b Traditional at Adrspach
Handcrack on the valley side. On Cross Hill (křížový vrch ). Wrong name: should be "Údolní"
Adrspach Traditional 5.10b On-sight
2012-09-17
2012-09-17
On-sight
Pres Fichili - Milenci
5.10a Traditional at Adrspach
Adrspach Traditional 5.10a On-sight
2012-07-28
2012-07-28
On-sight
?namn-valdegobia
5.12b Sport at Valdegovia
med influensa i värmen. Misärdagar
Valdegovia Sport 5.12b On-sight
2012-07-23
2012-07-23
On-sight
Rabadá-Navarro
5.11b Partially... at Picu Urriellu (El Naranjo de Bulnes)
750 m. Boring after the halfway traverse. Simul-climb from the ledge to the top with one change-over after the easy downclimb after the great dihedral.
Picu Urriellu (El Naranjo de Bulnes) Partially... 5.11c (5.11b) On-sight
2012-07-21
2012-07-21
On-sight
Pecadillu
5.11b Partially... at Picu Urriellu (El Naranjo de Bulnes)
Picu Urriellu (El Naranjo de Bulnes) Partially... 5.11b On-sight
2012-07-19
2012-07-19
Top rope
Murciana 78
5.13a Partially... at Picu Urriellu (El Naranjo de Bulnes)
7a/a0. Fantastic crux pitch. Next time perhaps.
Picu Urriellu (El Naranjo de Bulnes) Partially... 5.13a Top rope
2012-06-16
2012-06-16
Red point
Tervaleijona
5.12c Sport at Rösåsberget
Rösåsberget Sport 5.12c Red point
2012-06-16
2012-06-16
2nd Red point
Salmiakki
5.12d Sport at Rösåsberget
2nd go. Pretty close on o/s try.
Rösåsberget Sport 5.12d 2nd Red point
2012-05-20
2012-05-20
On-sight
Torsketaket
5.11c Traditional at Välseröd
Fists. Easier for us.
Välseröd Traditional 5.11c On-sight
2012-05-18
2012-05-18
Red point
Mixing matrix
5.12b Traditional at Galgeberget
2nd go, ground up. Very close on the flash-attemp. Really thin crack.
Galgeberget Traditional 5.12a (5.12b) Red point
2012-04-15
2012-04-15
On-sight
Tu pa los pollos moreno
5.12b Sport at Arboli
Everything on El Falco is class
Arboli Sport 5.12b On-sight
2012-04-14
2012-04-14
On-sight
Ya os Vale
5.12d Sport at Siurana
Siurana Sport 5.12d On-sight
2012-04-14
2012-04-14
On-sight
Bistec de Biceps
5.12c Sport at Siurana
Siurana Sport 5.12c On-sight
2012-04-12
2012-04-12
Red point
Outback
5.13a Sport at Siurana
Siurana Sport 5.13a Red point
2012-04-07
2012-04-07
On-sight
Llarg
5.12c Sport at Montsant
Montsant Sport 5.12c On-sight
2012-04-07
2012-04-07
On-sight
La llum
5.12b Sport at Montsant
Montsant Sport 5.12b On-sight
2012-03-24
2012-03-24
Red point
Rosvå
5.12d Sport at Midskogsberget
Surely a grade harder than Milestone?
Midskogsberget Sport 5.13a (5.12d) Red point
2012-01-05
2012-01-05
On-sight
Catalonia is not Patagonia
5.12b Sport at Montsant
Montsant Sport 5.12b On-sight
2012-01-05
2012-01-05
On-sight
Curt
5.12c Sport at Montsant
Montsant Sport 5.12c On-sight
2012-01-03
2012-01-03
On-sight
Mandragora
5.12c Sport at Siurana
I got benighted and only climbed to the first anchor... Pitch dark by the time I got there.... Would probably be 7b+ on most other crags.
Siurana Sport 5.12c On-sight
2011-10-22
2011-10-22
On-sight
Den hårda starten
5.11b Sport at Rösåsberget
Rösåsberget Sport 5.11b On-sight
2011-10-22
2011-10-22
Red point
Djungelvrål
5.11d Sport at Rösåsberget
Rösåsberget Sport 5.11d Red point
2011-10-22
2011-10-22
On-sight
Kundi
5.12b Sport at Rösåsberget
Rösåsberget Sport 5.12b On-sight
2011-10-11
2011-10-11
Red point
Herkules
Bärenschluchtwände, Frankenjura Sport 5.12d Red point
2011-10-07
2011-10-07
On-sight
A bunch of AWs
5.7 Traditional at Elbsandstein
Lots and lots of peaks in Elbsandstein. Fun for all
Elbsandstein Traditional 5.7 On-sight
2011-10-07
2011-10-07
Top rope
Südwestwand (EV) - Schroffer Stein
5.10a Traditional at Elbsandstein
Some OK knots I think...
Elbsandstein Traditional 5.10a Top rope
2011-10-07
2011-10-07
On-sight
Neue Südwestwand - Schroffer Stein
5.11a Traditional at Elbsandstein
Three bolts in 30 m. Clip up! (I also put in a horrible knot...)
Elbsandstein Traditional 5.11a On-sight
2011-10-06
2011-10-06
Top rope
Ostwand - Schiefe Zacke
5.7 Traditional at Elbsandstein
First route in Elb. 2nd after Erik Massih
Elbsandstein Traditional 5.7 Top rope
2011-10-06
2011-10-06
On-sight
AW - Große Herkulessäule
5.7 Traditional at Elbsandstein
Cool tower.
Elbsandstein Traditional 5.7 On-sight
2011-10-06
2011-10-06
On-sight
Westweg - Hallenstein
5.9 Traditional at Elbsandstein
2nd route in Elbsandtein. I suppose this one must have famously good knots? Not a free solo
Elbsandstein Traditional 5.9 On-sight
2011-10-06
2011-10-06
Top rope
Ping Pong - Chinesischer Turm
5.10b Traditional at Elbsandstein
Slightly sandy. Good route.
Elbsandstein Traditional 5.10b Top rope
2011-09-11
2011-09-11
Red point
Finska Skriket
5.13b Sport at Rösåsberget
Några blöta grepp och i duggregn... Ny beta tror jag-inspirerad av Hasse. (Gjorde inte som Saku eller Urban)
Rösåsberget Sport 5.13a (5.13b) Red point
2011-08-30
2011-08-30
On-sight
6-1
5.12a Sport at Rösåsberget
O/s typ. Hade vart upp en bit och vänt någon vecka innan då det rann vatten överallt.
Rösåsberget Sport 5.12a On-sight
2011-08-04
2011-08-04
Red point
Pump-o-rama
5.12c Traditional at Stiberg
Stiberg Traditional 5.12c Red point
2011-08-01
2011-08-01
On-sight
Vestveggen - vesteggen
5.10d Traditional at Stetinden
11 rl. Lång dag 1400 m från botten till toppen. Mycket klättring, mycket klyvning, en del letande. En camalot #4 lyx men inte nödvändig för den som är stabil på knytnävar.
Stetinden Traditional 5.10d On-sight
2011-07-31
2011-07-31
Red point
Inn i granskauen
5.11a Traditional at Stiberg
Första försöket, men gjort La Linja innan.
Stiberg Traditional 5.11a Red point
2011-07-30
2011-07-30
On-sight
La Linja
5.11d Traditional at Stiberg
A bit damp
Stiberg Traditional 5.11d On-sight
2011-07-30
2011-07-30
FA Red point
Flaket
5.12a Traditional at Stiberg
A bit damp. Some say this was the FFA? Surely not?
Stiberg Traditional 5.12a FA Red point
2011-07-26
2011-07-26
On-sight
Alexis / Aleksos
5.11a Traditional at Hollenderan
5 rl. Alexis sedan kruxet på alexos. Verkligen inge vidare fin.
Hollenderan Traditional 5.11a On-sight
2011-07-09
2011-07-09
FA Red point
Ljudvallen
5.12c Traditional at Offerhällan
Offerhällan Traditional 5.12c FA Red point
2011-07-04
2011-07-04
FA Red point
Lansett
5.11d Sport at Blåberget
Blåberget Sport 5.11d FA Red point
2011-06-26
2011-06-26
Red point
Vårkåt
5.11c Traditional at Store Festvåg
Repeat. Gjorde den i fjol också. Superfin
Store Festvåg Traditional 5.11c Red point
2011-06-25
2011-06-25
On-sight
Fire forsøk
5.11a Traditional at Festvågveggen
Festvågveggen Traditional 5.11a On-sight
2011-06-24
2011-06-24
On-sight
Ypperstepresten
5.10b Sport at Presten boulders
Presten boulders Sport 5.10b On-sight
2011-06-19
2011-06-19
Red point
Lust och fägring
5.12d Partially... at Blåberget
Blåberget Partially... 5.13a (5.12d) Red point
2011-06-05
2011-06-05
Flash
Baggen
5.12a Sport at Finnsvedsberget
27 grader
Finnsvedsberget Sport 5.12a Flash
2011-06-05
2011-06-05
Red point
Fasta former
5.12b Sport at Finnsvedsberget
Hård va? 27 grader, sol
Finnsvedsberget Sport 5.12b Red point
2011-06-04
2011-06-04
Flash
Kapten Haddock
5.11d Sport at Finnsvedsberget
Finnsvedsberget Sport 5.11d Flash
2011-06-03
2011-06-03
On-sight
Huvudleden
5.11c Traditional at Skevik
Brant, ihållande och välsäkrad. Vad mer kan man begära? Sverigeklass. Klippte inga pitonger
Skevik Traditional 5.11c On-sight
2011-05-31
2011-05-31
On-sight
Beavis
5.11d Sport at Niemisel
Should perhaps not be bolted. Hands and fingers.
Niemisel Sport 5.11d On-sight
2011-05-25
2011-05-25
Red point
Utan ecstasy
5.12b Sport at TKAK
Utan slut>Ecstasy väl värd att klättra
TKAK Sport 5.12b Red point
2011-05-21
2011-05-21
Red point
Irrfärd light
5.12a Sport at Blåberget
Irrfärd men escape upp till Huggas ankare. Kanske hård 7a.
Blåberget Sport 5.12a Red point
2011-04-25
2011-04-25
On-sight
Goa brunetter
5.12a Traditional at Hallinden
Hallinden Traditional 5.12a On-sight
2011-04-22
2011-04-22
Top rope
Hygienens fiende nr 1
5.11c Traditional at Buråsen
Första klassens led. Fulföll. Följde rent efteråt.
Buråsen Traditional 5.11c Top rope
2011-04-21
2011-04-21
On-sight
Canapé
5.11d Partially... at Häller
Gå den i solen för att få ut maximalt av upplevelsen
Häller Partially... 5.11d On-sight
2011-04-17
2011-04-17
On-sight
Kung Triton
5.11b Traditional at Ringkallen
Najs. Rätt skitig på greppen. Rensade allt eftersom.
Ringkallen Traditional 5.11b On-sight
2011-04-10
2011-04-10
Red point
Pultti
5.12c Sport at Midskogsberget
5årsflash. Gjorde den runt 2005.
Midskogsberget Sport 5.12c Red point
2011-04-10
2011-04-10
Red point
Elvis
5.13a Sport at Midskogsberget
Midskogsberget Sport 5.13a Red point
2011-04-09
2011-04-09
Red point
Graceland
5.13b Sport at Midskogsberget
This is hard and tricky for 8a, same as 2 miles 2 Graceland for me
Midskogsberget Sport 5.13b Red point
2011-03-13
2011-03-13
On-sight
La secallona
5.11d Sport at Siurana
Soft for the sector, would be hard on most other crags ;)
Siurana Sport 5.11d On-sight
2011-03-11
2011-03-11
Red point
Montsantrrat
5.12c Sport at Montsant
Fell at first bolt. Then to top. One rest day didn't help
Montsant Sport 5.12c Red point
2011-03-09
2011-03-09
On-sight
Se m'apaga la baldufa
5.11d Sport at Siurana
Siurana Sport 5.11d On-sight
2011-03-09
2011-03-09
Flash
Ay mamita
5.11d Sport at Siurana
Siurana Sport 5.11d Flash
2011-03-08
2011-03-08
On-sight
Eixirigall L1
Read it horribly wrong. Hardest route of the day for me...
Margalef - Zona ermita Sant Salvador Sport 5.11d On-sight
2011-03-08
2011-03-08
On-sight
Mar de fons
5.12b Sport at Margalef
Margalef Sport 5.12b On-sight
2011-03-08
2011-03-08
On-sight
Yihad
Margalef - Zona ermita Sant Salvador Sport 5.12c On-sight
2011-03-07
2011-03-07
On-sight
¿?no 5
5.11d Sport at Montserrat
Montserrat Sport 5.11d On-sight
2011-03-07
2011-03-07
On-sight
Discordia
5.12b Sport at Montserrat
Montserrat Sport 5.12b On-sight
2010-11-10
2010-11-10
Red point
El Latido del Miedo
5.13b Sport at Terradets
Terradets Sport 5.13b Red point
2010-11-05
2010-11-05
Red point
Occident
5.12d Sport at Terradets
Terradets Sport 5.12d Red point
2010-11-04
2010-11-04
On-sight
Avant Match L1
5.12d Sport at Terradets
Terradets Sport 5.12d On-sight
2010-11-01
2010-11-01
Red point
L'Ànsia
5.12a Sport at Terradets
halkade av mellan 1a och 2a bult
Terradets Sport 5.12a Red point
2010-11-01
2010-11-01
On-sight
Pasta sin Agua
5.12a Sport at Terradets
Terradets Sport 5.12a On-sight
2010-11-01
2010-11-01
On-sight
Jam Sesión
5.12b Sport at Terradets
Terradets Sport 5.12b On-sight
2010-11-01
2010-11-01
On-sight
Derribos Arias
5.12c Sport at Terradets
Terradets Sport 5.12c On-sight
2010-09-11
2010-09-11
Red point
A day in life
5.13d Sport at Niemisel
Boyaka. Thanks to Urban's and Jari's microbeta. Alas, pulled a finger
Niemisel Sport 5.13b (5.13d) Red point
2010-08-28
2010-08-28
On-sight
Panta Rei
5.11d Sport at Örnberget
Försökte på den 1999.
Örnberget Sport 5.11d On-sight
2010-08-28
2010-08-28
On-sight
Utan Smör
5.12b Sport at Örnberget
Örnberget Sport 5.12b On-sight
2010-08-22
2010-08-22
On-sight
Repcirkus L1
5.11c Sport at Skorped
Föll på L2, läste bort mig. L1+L2 drygt 35 m fin klättring. Rekommenderas.
Skorped Sport 5.11c On-sight
2010-08-04
2010-08-04
Top rope
Vårkåt
5.11c Traditional at Lofoten
2a på kruxrepan efter J. Söderström. 6+-repan är Lofotens kanske finaste handspricka.
Lofoten Traditional 5.11c Top rope
2010-08-04
2010-08-04
FA Top rope
Första approximationen
5.11d Traditional at Lofoten
Följde kruxrepan rent. Borde ha städat upp i linjen och stilen, men blötaste sommaren sedan 1953 satte stopp för leken.
Lofoten Traditional 5.11d FA Top rope
2010-08-01
2010-08-01
Top rope
Reisen/Korståget
5.11c Sport at Presten boulders
Med J. Söderström. Reisen upp till storhylla, förutom repan upp till hyllan som var plaskvåt. Traverserade över till Ypperstepresten. Följde kruxrepan på Korståget och testade gå vänster vid sista bult. Spexigt men hårt för huvudet gissar jag.Korståget är rätt boring efter kruxet.
Presten boulders Sport 5.11c Top rope
2010-07-29
2010-07-29
Red point
Stålormsrisset
5.12c Traditional at Lofoten
Missade flashen pga fulbeta från frökenfingrar... ;)
Lofoten Traditional 5.12c Red point
2010-07-28
2010-07-28
Top rope
Ninjarisset
5.11c Traditional at Lofoten
2a efter J. Söderström
Lofoten Traditional 5.11c Top rope
2010-07-26
2010-07-26
On-sight
Sista sommaren
5.11d Traditional at Store Festvåg
Tunn fingerspricka, säkert soft för vissa, jag tyckte den var the living end. Också mycket fin! Gör Vårkåt och Sista sommaren för en fin eftermiddag!
Store Festvåg Traditional 5.11d On-sight
2010-07-22
2010-07-22
On-sight
Rainman
5.11d Sport at Ersfjorden
Plaskblöt i starten, drog i en slinga förbi första traversen, 7a/A0.
Ersfjorden Sport 5.11d On-sight
2010-07-22
2010-07-22
On-sight
Hoppalong knut
5.12a Sport at Eggum
Svårt att hitta en 7b-väg till ankaret. Klättrade pockets rakt upp till ankaret? Torr i alla fall...
Eggum Sport 5.12a On-sight
2010-07-21
2010-07-21
Flash
Akantus
5.11d Sport at Gullknausen
Exponerad!
Gullknausen Sport 5.11d Flash
2010-07-21
2010-07-21
Red point
Brosmelina
5.12b Sport at Gullknausen
Exponerad!! På O/S-brännet psykade jag ut vid näst sista klippet och greppade kortslingan... Inte bra... Skämmes för fan.Mäktig led med fräckt avslut, längdberoende tyvärr.
Gullknausen Sport 5.12b Red point
2010-07-21
2010-07-21
Red point
Golden Shower
5.12c Sport at Gullknausen
Superfin led med mäktig utklättring till ankaret. Mycket lättare nu än för två år sedan, fortfarande hård för graden. Mer soft 7b+ än hård 7b.
Gullknausen Sport 5.12c Red point
2010-07-09
2010-07-09
Red point
Nih minh wang
5.13b Sport at Hell
Hell Sport 5.13b Red point
2010-07-06
2010-07-06
Flash
Vitsippan
5.12a Sport at Åberget
Åberget Sport 5.12a Flash
2010-06-04
2010-06-04
On-sight
Falsk Matematik
5.11c Sport at Skorped
Väldigt ogenomtänkt uppvärmning. Spännande att bli attackerad
Skorped Sport 5.11c On-sight
2010-06-04
2010-06-04
Red point
Sista Skriket
5.12a Sport at Rösåsberget
Rösåsberget Sport 5.12a Red point
2010-06-04
2010-06-04
On-sight
Listrig
5.12b Sport at Skorped
Kort men fin! Jämnare än den ser ut från backen.
Skorped Sport 5.12b On-sight
2010-06-02
2010-06-02
On-sight
Damm Blåsare
5.11b Sport at Rösåsberget
Rösåsberget Sport 5.11b On-sight
2010-05-29
2010-05-29
Red point
Gummigubbar
5.12a Partially... at Ringkallen
Mix. Hard to read. Nice moves.
Ringkallen Partially... 5.12a Red point
2010-05-22
2010-05-22
Red point
Lambda
5.11d Traditional at Blåberget
Årsflash
Blåberget Traditional 5.11d Red point
2010-05-21
2010-05-21
Red point
Kerberos
5.11c Sport at Blåberget
Mix. Mentalt och tekniskt vedervarande. Årsfalsh, följde för 2 år sedan.
Blåberget Sport 5.11c Red point
2010-05-13
2010-05-13
Flash
Partikkelakseleratoren
5.11c Sport at Bratthammaren
Bratthammaren Sport 5.11c Flash
2010-05-13
2010-05-13
Top rope
Donkey Kong
5.11d Sport at Bratthammaren
cruxy
Bratthammaren Sport 5.11d Top rope
2010-05-13
2010-05-13
Red point
17 mai ruta
5.11d Sport at Bratthammaren
Fell on third move... Blind boulderproblem to easy juggy climbing.
Bratthammaren Sport 5.11d Red point
2010-05-13
2010-05-13
On-sight
Mer sol på kroppen
5.12b Sport at Bratthammaren
Bratthammaren Sport 5.12b On-sight
2010-05-09
2010-05-09
Red point
Naturell
5.13a Sport at Stugun
Osedvanligt lätt för att vara en Kari-led. Bouldrig och frän, blås inte något klipp bara...
Stugun Sport 5.13a Red point
2010-05-08
2010-05-08
On-sight
Skuckuskräcken
5.11d Traditional at Stugun
Equalising pitons and backing up them with small friends, I call that traditional. Really nice route.
Stugun Traditional 5.11d On-sight
2010-05-07
2010-05-07
Flash
Västerfjärdsdiedret
5.11b Traditional at Obbola
Well protected. Very short. Morpho: small fingers would be nice.
Obbola Traditional 5.11b Flash
2010-05-07
2010-05-07
FA Red point
Stockholm - Norrland
5.12c Traditional at Obbola
Finally to the top. Cleaned the top crack from a rope but did not touch any holds, then ground up (Magnus did it entirely ground-up). Had two pads but managed to miss them the only time I fell before the first piece. Reasonably well protected.
Obbola Traditional 5.12c FA Red point
2010-05-02
2010-05-02
Red point
Jämtland/Kors då
5.11d Traditional at Ringkallen
Started in Jämtland... and finished left in Kors då. Physically harder but way less scary than Kors då.
Ringkallen Traditional 5.11d Red point
2010-04-25
2010-04-25
Flash
Diskbrock
5.11b Partially... at Ringkallen
Cheated to the right?
Ringkallen Partially... 5.11b Flash
2010-04-25
2010-04-25
Flash
Krås
5.11c Partially... at Ringkallen
Ringkallen Partially... 5.11c Flash
2010-04-25
2010-04-25
On-sight
Borrealism
5.11d Partially... at Ringkallen
Ringkallen Partially... 5.11d On-sight
2010-04-24
2010-04-24
On-sight
Ledsna fingrar
5.11b Traditional at Ringkallen
but a bit exciting, and very very dirty.
Ringkallen Traditional 5.11b On-sight
2010-04-24
2010-04-24
Red point
Länken
5.12a Partially... at Ringkallen
a few bolts too. Probably the best route on the crag.
Ringkallen Partially... 5.12a Red point
2010-04-07
2010-04-07
Flash
Shin shan
5.12a Sport at Montserrat
slab. technical
Montserrat Sport 5.12a Flash
2010-04-06
2010-04-06
Flash
Aonvolsna
5.12a Sport at Tres Ponts
R2.
Tres Ponts Sport 5.12a Flash
2010-04-06
2010-04-06
On-sight
Alt Ugrell L1
5.12d Sport at Tres Ponts
Tres Ponts Sport 5.12d On-sight
2010-04-05
2010-04-05
On-sight
Pan de puta
5.11d Sport at Tres Ponts
Tres Ponts Sport 5.11d On-sight
2010-04-05
2010-04-05
Flash
Bueno Bueno
5.11d Sport at Tres Ponts
Tres Ponts Sport 5.11d Flash
2010-04-05
2010-04-05
Flash
El Malson
5.12a Sport at Tres Ponts
Tres Ponts Sport 5.12a Flash
2010-04-05
2010-04-05
On-sight
Jonas's cheating version of nameless
5.12b Sport at Tres Ponts
Lång, förlängde en slinga så jag slapp klättra kruxet. Bara till andra ankaret, 45 m...
Tres Ponts Sport 5.12b On-sight
2010-04-05
2010-04-05
On-sight
Esperit Jove
5.12c Sport at Tres Ponts
Tres Ponts Sport 5.12c On-sight
2010-04-02
2010-04-02
Flash
2n viatge a Venus
5.11d Sport at Montgrony
Montgrony Sport 5.11d Flash
2010-04-02
2010-04-02
On-sight
Sheila
5.12b Sport at Montgrony
cool old school offering. A bit soft, but you will surely find softer offerings in spain...
Montgrony Sport 5.12b On-sight
2010-03-13
2010-03-13
Red point
2 Miles to Graceland
5.13c Sport at Midskogsberget
Maybe hard 8a, link-up btw "Milestone" and "Graceland"
Midskogsberget Sport 5.13b (5.13c) Red point
2009-10-17
2009-10-17
Red point
Dr. Wiklunds känsla för luft
5.13b Sport at Blåberget
FA
Blåberget Sport 5.13b Red point
2009-10-10
2009-10-10
Red point
Milestone
5.13b Sport at Midskogsberget
Midskogsberget Sport 5.13a (5.13b) Red point
2009-10-04
2009-10-04
Red point
Burning Spear (Them never loved poor Marcus)
5.13b Sport at Niemisel
Niemisel Sport 5.13b Red point
2009-10-03
2009-10-03
Red point
Bä bä vita lamm
5.13d Sport at Niemisel
Niemisel Sport 5.13c (5.13d) Red point
2009-09-26
2009-09-26
Red point
Rage against the machine
5.13b Sport at Niemisel
Niemisel Sport 5.13b Red point
2009-09-20
2009-09-20
Red point
År av ensamhet
5.12b Sport at Blåberget
Blåberget Sport 5.12b Red point
2009-09-06
2009-09-06
On-sight
Primitiva funktioner
5.11b Sport at Skorped
Skorped Sport 5.11b On-sight
2009-09-06
2009-09-06
On-sight
Elognation
5.11c Sport at Skorped
Fullt krig på okritat vägg. Gick seriöst vilse innan jag hittade tillbaka till greppen. Pumpad som ett anabolaoffer. 28 m 12 bultar + ankare
Skorped Sport 5.11c On-sight
2009-07-27
2009-07-27
On-sight
Raw fucking power
5.12a Sport at Ersfjorden
Tech. A few hard pulls between spectacular no-hands.
Ersfjorden Sport 5.12a On-sight
2009-07-27
2009-07-27
Top rope
Leppa
5.12a Sport at Ersfjorden
Toprope nec. to take down draws. Super-steep traverse.
Ersfjorden Sport 5.12a Top rope
2009-07-25
2009-07-25
On-sight
Ballongsnoppen/Krumtappen
5.11a Traditional at Hollenderan
250 m. Link up climbing the yellow overhanging wall of 'Ballongsnoppen' to the chimneys of 'Krumtappen' for a wonderful combination of physically demanding modern- and not-so-modern climbing of highest quality.
Hollenderan Traditional 5.11a On-sight
2009-07-24
2009-07-24
On-sight
Svart hav
5.11b Traditional at Hollenderan
250m. Oh yeah! Joakim S. lead first three pitches, I led the rest.
Hollenderan Traditional 5.11b On-sight
2009-07-22
2009-07-22
On-sight
Ikaros
5.11b Traditional at Hollenderan
250m. Fantastic! Fingers to fist, slightly overhanging corner. A must do.
Hollenderan Traditional 5.11b On-sight
2009-07-20
2009-07-20
Top rope
Gemini
5.11d Traditional at Hollenderan
250m. Long day. Followed crux pitch (Hollendare "7") free behind Joakim S. Temperatures just above freezing on a day after some heavy rainfall. Most of the time we where climbing in the clouds. Found a dry variation with some scary climbing for the first-, and part of the second pitch. The second pitch (6b+) was extremely wet and we split it in two pitches doing mostly aid climbing w/ some wet and scary mandatory free climbing. The crux pitch was almost dry though. Heavy rainfall was moving in when we got to the last pitch so we traversed over to 'Halvmånerisset' and finished up that route. 12 hours hut to hut. (!)
Hollenderan Traditional 5.11d Top rope
2009-07-15
2009-07-15
Top rope
Korståget / Reisen
5.11c Traditional at Presten boulders
400m. Link up: Climb first 4 pitches of Korstågen up to Storhylla, than move over to Reisen and climb that to the top. Seconded both the physical- and the psychological crux pitches behind Joakim S. Unsure about exact date.
Presten boulders Traditional 5.11c Top rope
2009-07-13
2009-07-13
Red point
Huggormen
5.12b Traditional at Djupfjord
So close to o/s it hurts to think about. Well protected to say the least
Djupfjord Traditional 5.12b Red point
2009-07-11
2009-07-11
On-sight
Alopølsa
5.12b Sport at Eggum
7b/b+ in the guidebook
Eggum Sport 5.12b On-sight
2009-07-11
2009-07-11
On-sight
Commando
5.12c Sport at Eggum
Eggum Sport 5.12c On-sight
2009-07-09
2009-07-09
Top rope
Pillaren
5.11b Traditional at Lofoten
350 m + some slabs to the top. Started on "Norwegian sheep ranch", went over to "Next best thing" in the middle, than back to "Sheep ranch". Fantastic climbing on cool rock. With Joakim S. and Tommy N. Seconded crux pitch
Lofoten Traditional 5.11b Top rope
2009-07-07
2009-07-07
On-sight
Himmlen kan vente
5.10d Traditional at Presten boulders
370 m. Nice. 2nd and last three pitches are very good.
Presten boulders Traditional 5.10d On-sight
2009-06-30
2009-06-30
Flash
Stärkelse
5.11d Sport at Falkberget, Luleå
Poorly/Mainly chipped Dangerously bolted even though it has 11 bolts in 20 m! Crux would be possible w/o drilled pockets. Nice route if you can overlook danger/chipping.
Falkberget, Luleå Sport 5.11d Flash
2009-05-31
2009-05-31
Top rope
Pånyttfödd
5.10c Traditional at Blåberget
New route. Bottomless roof-chimney to tight squeeze (half a metre in half an hour for me)
Blåberget Traditional 5.10c Top rope
2009-05-30
2009-05-30
FA Red point
Mjölner, 2p
5.12c Sport at Blåberget
FFA. Yo-yo style. 6c to ledge to bloody hard boulderproblem on sharp holds (7A+ maybe?). Horrible
Blåberget Sport 5.12c FA Red point
2009-05-29
2009-05-29
Red point
Ingenjör Söderströms irrfärd
5.12c Traditional at Blåberget
Blåberget Traditional 5.12c Red point
2009-05-24
2009-05-24
Red point
Diablo
5.13b Sport at Niemisel
Niemisel Sport 5.13b Red point
2009-05-01
2009-05-01
Red point
Rolig
5.12a Partially... at Ringkallen
Mixad. Gjort föut (2004)
Ringkallen Partially... 5.12a Red point
2009-04-18
2009-04-18
Flash
Masken
5.11c Traditional at Galgeberget
Fin fingerspricka
Galgeberget Traditional 5.11c Flash
2009-04-17
2009-04-17
Red point
Laybacksprickan
5.11b Traditional at Björkberget
Krånglig offwidth, tajt och brant
Björkberget Traditional 5.11b Red point
2009-04-14
2009-04-14
Red point
Offline
5.11d Sport at Häller
Short, sweet offwidth.
Häller Sport 5.11c (5.11d) Red point
2009-04-12
2009-04-12
On-sight
Stålfinger
5.11b Traditional at Simonsberget
Hård för mig (tunn spricka)
Simonsberget Traditional 5.11b On-sight
2009-04-12
2009-04-12
Red point
Aeroflott
5.12c Sport at Simonsberget
Halvbalansigt arête. Perfekt beta från Thomas iofs.
Simonsberget Sport 5.12c Red point
2008-11-20
2008-11-20
On-sight
Tacit
Stukade knät i en djup knädropp. Damit.
Pendergrass Murray Recreational Preserve Sport 5.12a On-sight
2008-11-18
2008-11-18
On-sight
Buddha Hole
5.11d Sport at Coal Bank Hollow
Coal Bank Hollow Sport 5.11d On-sight
2008-11-18
2008-11-18
On-sight
Supafly
5.12a Sport at Coal Bank Hollow
Proof-error? 5.11b? Anyway, I take the grade, thanks.
Coal Bank Hollow Sport 5.12a On-sight
2008-11-16
2008-11-16
On-sight
Way Up Yonder
5.12a Sport at Red River Gorge
30 m. Hänger över 15m. Fantastisk klättring på juggar.
Red River Gorge Sport 5.12a On-sight
2008-11-16
2008-11-16
Flash
Ro Shampo
5.12a Sport at Natural Bridge Region
PE på juggar. Lite vass.
Natural Bridge Region Sport 5.12a Flash
2008-11-15
2008-11-15
On-sight
David, p1
5.11a Traditional at Indian Creek, UT
FFA of p1? F.A. of p2 (with falls...).
Indian Creek, UT Traditional 5.11a On-sight
2008-11-15
2008-11-15
Flash
Manifest Destiny
5.11d Sport at Muir Valley
Muir Valley Sport 5.11d Flash
2008-11-15
2008-11-15
On-sight
Magnum opus
5.12a Sport at Muir Valley
hehe
Muir Valley Sport 5.12a On-sight
2008-11-15
2008-11-15
Flash
Super Best Friends
5.12b Sport at Muir Valley
Mer som onsight. Betat jag fick var fel.
Muir Valley Sport 5.12b Flash
2008-11-12
2008-11-12
On-sight
Head and shoulders
5.11d Sport at Red River Gorge
Red River Gorge Sport 5.11d On-sight
2008-11-12
2008-11-12
On-sight
Check your grip
Superfun. Best kind of sportclimb: big buckets, easy moves, and not overbolted.
Pendergrass Murray Recreational Preserve Sport 5.12a On-sight
2008-11-12
2008-11-12
On-sight
Infectious
P/PE. Utan förplacerade QD
Military Wall and Left Flank Sport 5.12b On-sight
2008-10-16
2008-10-16
On-sight
9 Lives
5.11d Traditional at Indian Creek, UT
finfinfin! 36 meter
Indian Creek, UT Traditional 5.11d On-sight
2008-10-16
2008-10-16
On-sight
Dead Crow
5.11d Traditional at Indian Creek, UT
Lång! 47 m. Slutar helt godtyckligt mitt i ett krux=superfånigt.
Indian Creek, UT Traditional 5.11d On-sight
2008-10-16
2008-10-16
On-sight
Layaway plan
5.11d Traditional at Indian Creek, UT
Indian Creek, UT Traditional 5.11d On-sight
2008-10-16
2008-10-16
Red point
Way Rambo
5.12a Traditional at Indian Creek, UT
Årsflash.
Indian Creek, UT Traditional 5.12a Red point
2008-09-10
2008-09-10
On-sight
Hugga, p2
5.11b Traditional at Blåberget
Teknisk!
Blåberget Traditional 5.11b On-sight
2008-09-10
2008-09-10
Top rope
Hugga, p1
5.11c Traditional at Blåberget
p1, följde Jocke S.
Blåberget Traditional 5.11c Top rope
2008-08-22
2008-08-22
On-sight
Första färden
5.11b Traditional at Blåberget
Senilflash, 5 år senare. Otroligt fin, men lite lös.
Blåberget Traditional 5.11b On-sight
2008-08-14
2008-08-14
On-sight
Jämtland, jämtland regnar ständut
5.11c Traditional at Ringkallen
Fin och brant.
Ringkallen Traditional 5.11c On-sight
2008-08-14
2008-08-14
Flash
Lindium
5.11c Partially... at Tavelsjöberget
Senilflash. Ej klättrat den på 7 år.
Tavelsjöberget Partially... 5.11c Flash
2008-08-14
2008-08-14
Red point
Rätt åt dig
5.12a Partially... at Ringkallen
Hård och fin. Pillriga säkringar. Länken nästa gång....
Ringkallen Partially... 5.12a Red point
2008-07-18
2008-07-18
On-sight
Fallinjen
5.11d Sport at Ersfjorden
Superbrant sak som startade i ett dieder
Ersfjorden Sport 5.11d On-sight
2008-07-18
2008-07-18
On-sight
Ravnens flukt
5.12a Sport at Ersfjorden
Brant grej med hårt 3e klipp
Ersfjorden Sport 5.12a On-sight
2008-07-08
2008-07-08
On-sight
Sankthansormen
5.11d Sport at Eggum
Synd på hyllan...
Eggum Sport 5.11d On-sight
2008-07-08
2008-07-08
On-sight
Alkotest
5.11d Sport at Eggum
Eggum Sport 5.11d On-sight
2008-07-08
2008-07-08
On-sight
Gullfaks
5.12a Sport at Eggum
Kul!
Eggum Sport 5.12a On-sight
2008-07-07
2008-07-07
On-sight
Odins Bue
5.11b Traditional at Lofoten
6p. Inte O/S av p2. Finast i Lofoten? Med Jocke S.
Lofoten Traditional 5.11b On-sight
2008-07-04
2008-07-04
Top rope
Storpillaren
5.11c Sport at Lofoten
19p. Lite häng och lite drag i säkringar. Med Jocke S
Lofoten Sport 5.11c Top rope
2008-07-01
2008-07-01
On-sight
Thanatos
5.11d Traditional at Hollenderan
World class! No really, it's not just an americanism, I mean it.
Hollenderan Traditional 5.11d On-sight
2008-06-13
2008-06-13
Red point
Joshua
5.12c Traditional at Välaberget
Välaberget Traditional 5.12c Red point
2008-06-07
2008-06-07
On-sight
Storfjellsbowling
5.10d Traditional at Flatanger
On-sight with open harness....
Flatanger Traditional 5.10d On-sight
2007-11-17
2007-11-17
Flash
Poco owns me a concert
5.12c Sport at Red Rocks
Red Rocks Sport 5.12c Flash
2007-11-16
2007-11-16
Flash
The Prophet
5.12b Sport at Red Rocks
Red Rocks Sport 5.12b Flash
2007-11-07
2007-11-07
On-sight
Levitation 29
5.11c Partially... at Red Rocks
11p. Endast de första 8p. Förstaman på samtliga
Red Rocks Partially... 5.11c On-sight
2007-11-07
2007-11-07
On-sight
Cling free
5.12b Sport at Red Rocks
Red Rocks Sport 5.12b On-sight
2007-11-04
2007-11-04
On-sight
Stoke me
5.12a Sport at El Rito
El Rito Sport 5.12a On-sight
2007-11-04
2007-11-04
On-sight
Stoker
5.12b Sport at El Rito
El Rito Sport 5.12b On-sight
2007-11-04
2007-11-04
Flash
To beer or not to beer
5.12c Sport at El Rito
El Rito Sport 5.12c Flash
2007-11-01
2007-11-01
On-sight
Crack Attack
5.12a Sport at El Rito
El Rito Sport 5.12a On-sight
2007-11-01
2007-11-01
On-sight
Pocket Rocket
5.12b Sport at El Rito
El Rito Sport 5.12b On-sight
2007-10-17
2007-10-17
Red point
King Cat
5.11c Traditional at Indian Creek
Indian Creek Traditional 5.11c Red point
2007-10-17
2007-10-17
Red point
Annunaki
5.11d Traditional at Indian Creek, UT
Fin! Brant! Föll från ankarklippet på 1a...
Indian Creek, UT Traditional 5.11d Red point
2007-10-17
2007-10-17
On-sight
Dos Hermanos
5.12a Traditional at Indian Creek, UT
Indian Creek, UT Traditional 5.12a On-sight
2007-10-17
2007-10-17
Red point
Coyne Crack
5.12a Traditional at Indian Creek, UT
Ringlocks & Offset.
Indian Creek, UT Traditional 5.12a Red point
2007-09-17
2007-09-17
On-sight
??
5.12b Sport at Clear Creek Canyon
Clear Creek Canyon Sport 5.12b On-sight
2007-08-19
2007-08-19
On-sight
Bolting barbie
5.12a Sport at El Rito
El Rito Sport 5.12a On-sight
2006-09-01
2006-09-01
Red point
Stereo
5.13a Sport at Niemisel
Font 7B+ till 7a-led. Troligtvis sensommaren 2006. 7c+ for this is ridiculous
Niemisel Sport 5.13b (5.13a) Red point
2005-05-11
2005-05-11
On-sight
Rasputin
5.11d Traditional at Midskogsberget
Min första 7+ trad o/s om den står sig i grad? Tror det var 2005?
Midskogsberget Traditional 5.11d On-sight
2004-06-16
2004-06-16
Red point
Marja-Lisas mattelektion
5.12c Sport at Tavelsjöberget
Helt på egna säkringar. 7b/b+ men def det senare om man skiter i bultarna. Svårt att stanna och lägga och lite skräckig även om säkringen bör hålla. Gissar 2004
Tavelsjöberget Sport 5.12c Red point
2004-01-01
2004-01-01
Red point
Viva Las vegas
5.12c Sport at Niemisel
Nice
Niemisel Sport 5.12c Red point
2003-01-01
2003-01-01
Red point
Return of the spacecowboy
5.12d Sport at Niemisel
Third best route in Niemisel?
Niemisel Sport 5.12d Red point
2003-01-01
2003-01-01
Red point
Sexbomb
5.12d Sport at Niemisel
Before hold loss. Harder now? Good up to the ledge, after that... not so much
Niemisel Sport 5.12d Red point
2003-01-01
2003-01-01
Red point
Great balls of fire
5.13a Sport at Niemisel
Not 8a, but not 7c either... perhaps. 7c/c+
Niemisel Sport 5.13a Red point
2003-01-01
2003-01-01
Red point
E-type
5.12d Sport at Niemisel
Niemisel Sport 5.12d Red point
2003-01-01
2003-01-01
Red point
Blondinos on fire
5.12d Sport at Niemisel
Old way with lots of rules about where you could climb, still hardly 7c+.
Niemisel Sport 5.12d Red point
2003-01-01
2003-01-01
Red point
Better burn out than fade away
5.13a Sport at Niemisel
Niemisel Sport 5.13a Red point
2001-05-01
2001-05-01
Red point
Even Wilder
5.12c Sport at Niemisel
urgh.... worthless variant.
Niemisel Sport 5.12c Red point
1999-01-01
1999-01-01
Red point
HiFi
5.12c Sport at Niemisel
Hard crux
Niemisel Sport 5.12c Red point