Fontainebleau first timer

almost 5 years ago

Got back from my first ever trip to Fontainebleau. What a place! The amount of climbing was overwhelming. The smooth sandstone with ridiculously good friction felt nice after granit and plastic in particular. I've seen Albarracin, Pfaltz and Red Rocks (not to forget E75, the only sandstone spot in Finland :-)) but so many quality boulders in a nice setting made a very special impression. Have to get back there, hopefully many times!

As nice as the climbing there could get, I wasn't prepared for one thing. First couple of days were ok but on a third day, a deep throbbing started to creep into elbows. It got only worse and from the next day onwards, it was possible to climb only with heavy doses of painkillers. Never before have I faced similar pain when climbing. I soon discovered that I had gotten an ailment familiar to many first timers (let's call it 'Font syndrome') caused by continuous compression moves on slopers. The climbing differs from pulling down 'ordinary' holds and puts different kind of strain to elbows.

Only couple of very easy climbs per day for the rest of the trip and that was it. Have to remember and prepare for this next time. Living is learning...

Despite of all the whining, Fontainebleau turned out to be a place well worth the hype and even more, at least to me. Even so, that it makes me feel slightly embarrassed to admit that I haven't been there before. If you like bouldering, go there if you already haven't!

Johannes on 'La Baleine' (7a/+), Petit Bois

Johannes Puranen on 'La Baleine' (7a/+), Petit Bois

In flames by the quality of this easy highball at Elephant

Johannes in flames on easy highball, Elephant

Smooth and sticky

So smooth...

'Le Coeur', Elephant

'Le Coeur', Elephant

'Corto Maltese' (7a), Bas Cuvier

'Corto Maltese' (7a), Bas Cuvier

'Super Bouze' (7a+), Bas Cuvier. Hard even to get your feet off the ground.

'Super Bouze' (7a+), Bas Cuvier

'Le Piano à Queue' (6b), Apremont. A classic mantle.

'Le Piano à Queue' (6b), Apremont. A classic mantle.

'Egoiste' (7a), Apremont

'Egoiste' (7a), Apremont

'A Bras Plat a Bras' (6c), Cuisinière

'A Bras Plat a Bras' (6c), Cuisinière

Bob on 'La Crevette', Bas Cuvier

Bob on 'La Crevette', Bas Cuvier

'Hélicoptère' (7a), Bas Cuvier

Bob on 'Hélicoptère' (7a), Bas Cuvier Bob on 'Hélicoptère' (7a), Bas Cuvier

Dusk at Bas Cuvier

Dusk at Bas Cuvier

Juike, the happy climber!

Happy climber Juike
Anssi Laatikainen Rami. You and Compression. I have a few good projects in mind for compression training in Finland. How about? almost 5 years ago
Rami Haakana Sounds incredibly good! :-) almost 5 years ago
Petteri Oksanen Tällä hetkellä pakkaamassa kamoja ja lähössä fontsusta 2vk reissun jälkee. Eka kerta itelläki täällä. Tuli tosiaan ekoina päivinä mullekki ihan helvetilliset kivut hauiksii ja kyynärvarren alueelle! Otettii viel 2 päivää putkee ni kipu ylty todella pahaks. Särkylääkkeillä sitä sai hillittyä mut kovemmat projektit jäi haaveeks :( Toi fontsu-syndrooma on oikeesti sellanen asia mitä kannattaa varoa. Slouppereita välttämällä (miten nyt täällä pystyy) sitä kipua voi vähentää. Mutta tosiaan, paikka on todella superb! almost 4 years ago
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