Pauli Sivula

Flash tai retroflash

Piti hakea pädi alkuun. Kiivettiin alku ehkä vähän suorempaan eikä kantin kautta.

Olisinkohan hölmöillyt tässä jotakin viime vuonna?

Käytin lumikon halkeamaa kattoa lähestyessä.

Laskeuduin ensin linjaa pitkin. Olipas työläs.

Spaced bolting, used some extra camalots.

Multipitch-harjoittelua hyvällä reitillä, liidasin molemmat pitchit.

5+ in (2013) topo, but nowadays harder

With light rain

Hieno ja hyvin varmistettava.

Boulderalkuun meni saitti, muuten iisi. 2 piissiä.

Sopivasti epämukavuusalueella.

Kahdella piissillä. Hyviä kyllä nää kaikki tän kallion 6c-reitit!

Linnunpesän vuoksi jäi kesken viime vuonna.

27:n topokuvat kadonneet, oletan että tää oli se oikeanpuoleinen sanaleikeistä.

Hankalalukuinen, aina väärässä asennossa.

Herkkää hiippailua

Variaatio saittina.

Varsin makea dihe!

Napakka/herkähkö alku.

Alkuboulderin kanssa sai hetken pähkiä.

Topin lähellä oleva blokki heiluu, varovasti!

2 piissiä

Pako blackadderilta

Top roped 2013.

Hieno pikkukaton ylitys.

Not sure if tried before => rp

Kaikkea hyvää samassa paketissa.

Matkalla parkkikselle näkyi hirvi vasan kera, tämä oli merkki että reitti kannattaa tänään kiivetä. Viikonlopun paras reitti!

Morphohko alku.

Ihan jo nimen vuoksi piti kiivetä näin juhannusaattona.

Climbed 'Ain laulain työtäs tee' first, same first 2 bolts => red point

Lyhyeksi reitiksi yllättävän hyvä.

Slippery at times and fragile rock quality => a bit scary.

1st go (climbed Cafe au lait first). Ok moves, but the stone is too fragile to be enjoyable.

Good reason to visit Gullknausen. Led 2nd pitch.

Delicate & airy.

Photogenic and relatively easy line with many good sections.

Climbed this in 4 pitches. Led 1st and 3rd (shorter one before the crux pitch). The last one is gold, others not so.

Easier than looks.

Reminds me 'Automatic for the people' -route at Rorvika. Good in this grade.

Climbed pitches 1-4, led 1st & 3rd pitch (delicate). 4th pitch is really good, could be N6?

X marks the spot.

Good crack climbing.

Viimeinkin!

Hyvä greidissään. Lähäreissä.

Ylärillä joskus monta vuotta sitten, nyt liidi.

Kerrankin riittävästi kamaa ja uskallusta!

Useita mielenkiintoisia kohtia.

Laatulinja

Olisko eka (kunnon) 7a-sportti itelle Suomessa?

Jotenkin tuli Falkkareiden Sledgehammer mieleen.

Halkeamaosio ihan ok, loppu likainen.

Kiipesin Wildchildin ensin => red point. Keskiosio jokseenkin likainen.

Super electric! More physical than Säkkipilli.

Cool slanting corner near the end!

Top roped 2014.

2nd go. Kustavi classic.

Trädinä. Suora versio kiivetty joskus aiemmin.

Puffrissetin 3kp:n jälkeen seuraavaksi jännintä kiipeilyä. Ois voinut jättää väliin.

Tän vois mennä trädinä joskus, vaikkei kaikkien hienoin linja olekaan.

Muuvia kruksiin sai jonkin aikaa hakea, mutta sen löydyttyä meni sitten seuraavalla aika smoothisti.

4 pitches, 110 m. My 20th route from Lofoten top 50 list (2008 edition)! Led 1st and 3rd pitch. 2nd is classic, 3rd pitch might be the scariest one I ever led, too much gear on harness makes moving hard...

2 pitches, 95 m. Led the 1st pitch, felt easier than N6. Hot at direct sun.

90 m, 3 pitches. Led pitches 1 & 3. Not sure did we climb the 3rd pitch as it should be, or was it last pitch of Running for Rasmus. (Finger crack + bold slab + morpho mantel to the ledge). Great views over the Henningsvaer.

22 m, one bolt near the top. Really nice!

Seconded. Cool one!

45 m. Delicate climbing. Used 3 cams for extra protection.

3 pitches, 100 m. Led 1st and 3rd pitch. Adventurous.

3 pitches, 95 m. Led 2nd pitch.

12 pitches, 467 m. Led pitches 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12. Many great pitches, especially brilliant slanting corner! Finest and longest climbing experience (so far) for me. The conditions were perfect: 10-15 degrees and partly sunny all day wihout heavy wind and not too many other climbers. Thanks Kari for the company!

4 pitches, 120 m. Led pitches 2 & 4. Basicly flash, but the route shares the last pitch with the Child's Play.

4 pitches, 120 m. Led pitches 1 & 3. Upper part of the route is quite nice. We had some difficulties to find the descent route.

Kiipesin ABC crackin eka, loppu flashina. Melkoinen rannari tuli kruksin ympärille, mutta selvisin!

Varmaan joskus aiemmin kakkostellut.

Topon reitti nro 17. Alun kanssa ähräsin vähän turhan pitkään, mutta puhtaasti meni! Laatulinja.

Oikeanpuoleisen alun kautta. Lopussa meinasi usko loppua, kysyin betaa, mutta tein kuitenkin omalla tavalla. Helpompi kuin miltä näyttää.

Saittasin Nooran ensin. Loppu flässinä.

Laadukas linja!

Oiskohan tätä koittanut joskus ennen? Mahdollisesti.

Kakkostelin ensin. Seikkailullinen ja ilmava, hieno pikkukaton ylitys, suosittelen!

Todennäköisesti kakkostellut aiemmin, ei voi muistaa.

Sopivan jännää meininkiä.

Suht kuumottavaa herkistelyä lopun poikkari. Kakkostellut reitin joskus vuosia aiemmin.

Seconded 2012.

Teknistä tasapainoilua, hankala mutta hyvä.

Retro-sight? Mahdollisesti kokeillut vuosia sitten tai sitten en.

Viimeinkin pääsin käyttämään #6:sta!

Exciting climb, like multipitch boulder.

One hard(ish) reachy move, otherwise same than Verklighet.

Bouldery, quite ok

Ok warm-up, soft.

Trad route. Dropped bunch of nuts to the ground at the crux, but luckily had enough gear left.

Seconded at first when the route was little wet, leaded later at the same day.

Short (~12m?) but challenging enough! Good protections. Nice one.

With Kari. Lead 1st pitch about halfway the wall. Upper half is super good!

Can't remember for sure did I tried/seconded this 2014...

Perfect corner!

With Joni & Olli. We tried first the direct version, which was too hard and escaped back to the ground. Back two days later with correct route info. Now led pitches 2 & 4.

Unique place, even the approach and finding the exit route from the top are own adventures! Painful without jam gloves.

With Joni. Lead 1st pitch, which was a bit wet. Adventurous route.

Ok line

With Olli. Basically flash, but climbed Forsidan at 2013 (same end) -> rp. Led pitches 1 & 3. Free advise: long johns are not necessary when approaching the route. ;)

Yksi camu alkuun kun eka pultti tuntui olevan aika korkealla.

25 m.

15m. How cool is clip the anchor while sitting on the tufa!

Sharp, but otherwise good.

35 m. Adventurous climb. Some loose rocks, but otherwise really good climb and worth visiting.

25 m.

30 m.

28 m.

30 m.

25m.

12m. Ok tufa route.

28 m. 2nd go. Made a mistake at very beginning.

Great tufa climbing with bridging!

36 m. Oh boy, that was windy!

35m. Good long warm-up.

33 m.

25 m.

35 m. Hidden holds (once again!) but when you find the right ones, climbing is really nice.

28 m. Polished juggy holds with long moves.

35 m. Hidden holds at upper section, not too hard when you find the right ones.

18 m.

25 m. Two separate cruxes, both nice!

30 m. Other climbers got their rope stucked, so someone had to climb the rope down... turned out really nice route with hidden holds.

35 m. Another good slab.

20 m. Easy start and nice bridging at upper parts. Kalymnos trip opened!

Can be climbed well protected also as trad, have to try that next time!

Top roped 2012.

Lots of grey insects on the route!

Right version of route (Merci). 2nd go.

Avri extension.

Sustained climb, nice moves.

Different!

Pumpy!

Longest route for me so far (250 m)! Led pitches 1-3 (1-2 as one pitch), 5, 7 & 9.

Bit sharp, but not too. Nice!

Like two routes its left: upper part on red/yellow wall is very nice.

Climbed variation of this: Started as Stars (which climbed before this => red point, Comicland was occupied) and changed immediately to Cacoyannis where routes split. Very nice upper part. 6b+ at topo.

Upper part on the red / yellow wall is very Nice!

2nd go.

6b+ at topo

6b+ at topo. Finnish style (spaced) bolting made the route interesting but not too scary.

175 m & 6 pitches, led pitches 1 & 3-6.

Nice combination of pockets, jugs & crimps.

Very windy day...

Joined the sending train. Nice ending to this trip.

Hard start, technical middle part & cruxy finish. Nice!

So many nice moves, the best route on this trip! 2nd go.

Great selection of different holds, nice!

Aika konna!

Pitches 1-5. Led pitches 3-5. Fantastic route!

Led 2nd pitch.

Led pitches 1 and 3. Nice, varied pitches, but maybe not the finest grade 5 route at Lofoten.

Fine slab, worth visiting!

Nice jamming!

Flashed "Pieniä askelia" before this, which has the same start => red point

2 camalots used.

2nd go.

My hardest trad route so far!

The rock quality and atmosphere reminds me routes of Laatta at Olhava, Finland. Recommend!

Easy but adventurous!

Nice trad crack!

Fell from 1m at first try.

Clipping the anchor is little tricky but fun move!

Top roped 2012.

Climbed wrong at first.

No ei nyt ihan itsestäänselvältä tuntunut, töitä sai tehdä...

Seconded 2012.

Top roped 2012.

Top roped 2012.

Top roped 2012.

So many nice parts!

Top roped two years ago.

The start was a little bit wet.