First of all, any topo picture is better than no picture at all. It's nice to get even just one picture from an area than none at all. It is possible to add a drawing as a picture too, but it needs to be in right format. Good thing about 27 crags is that you can share your first accents, your favorite problems and climbs from known and less known areas. Topos are easy to update.

Extensive guides would of course be nice to have. But it's nice to even have one picture to see what the rock is like and get an idea about the crag.

Equipment

I use DSLR but any camera works fine. Even camera phones are good enough these days. Some times I've even used video stills.

For lens I use what ever suits the purpose. Usually it's wide angle lens, but not too wide since I want the image to look about the same as in the nature.

Taking the photo

When taking the photo I prefer cloudy weather. In sunny weather it's difficult to get image with out shade of the trees etc. Of course you can't always choose the best conditions so you just have to make the best out of the situation. As I said earlier it's better to have a picture than no picture at all.

The angle of the shot. I always try to choose an angle that shows the rock in the most natural way. But in a way that you are able to draw the whole route in the picture. This is difficult with roofs. Quite often you need to use low angle to shoot in these situations.

Trees and branches are often in your way too. Of course you are not allowed to cut them down, but you can try bending them out of the way from the shot. Best way is to take the picture as good as possible. Then just write down the necessary info in the guide.

Big cliffs are also difficult. Its hard to draw the route if the picture is taken from too far. If it's too close it's hard to find the route. What I usually do is take one shot of the whole sector.

Then shoot the routes closer individually if possible.

Editing Photos

I shoot RAW so I have to edit my pictures. If you shoot JPEG it's not necessary. What I often do is check the levels with auto function and see if the picture looks better that way. I often play with shadows and highlights too. In topo images this seems to work fine since you want all the features of the rock to be seen.

Maximum file size at the moment is 5 megas. It doesn't have to be this big of course. Much smaller works fine too. In fact big ones will take eons to upload any ways. For format I use JPEG. Other formats also work (PNG etc). As long as its recognized by the browser.

Some times if you upload images with out editing you might get vertical images horizontal

If this happens, just open the image with with photo editor and save it. Then upload the saved image.

If you don't have the program available there are good free programs for photo editing in the web, like GIMP (http://www.gimp.org/) or Infranview (http://www.irfanview.com/).

Keep up the good work! Have fun!