Antti Louhi

Flawless 7m splitter roof that has everything from thin hands to fists followed by few more meters of vertical hands. Great benchmark for jamming skills and possibly the best hand crack around.

Exposed roof with bomber jams. Getting to the crack at the start is a bit of a puzzle (reach for the crack and layback hard) but the overhang climbs really well. With a closer look it really looks like an elephant's ass from below.

Great alternative for Lundeklubben. All pitches have really good climbing, especially first and third. Whatever the guide book says about the third pitch being wide is not true.

Dab, dab, dab :)

Got spooked and fixed appointment-with-death type of gear in the tree :) The final section wasn't that hard though.

Extension to Unohdus. Traverse right and climb the thin crack to the anchor. Upper horizontal crack takes good gear. Locks and flared finger jams.

5" splitter with good rests. Great for practising stacks and other dodgy OW maneuvers. To the right from Minisläbi.

Very, very good. Hands, thin hands, wide, off-fingers, fingers and a few holds for the traverse.

Finger lock > mantle

Climbed with gear. Surprisingly good finger crack with locks and jams.

Flawless finger crack. Didn't bring enough pads, climbed with a rope and two cams.

Nice mix of face climbing and cracks. Teukka delivered a few beers by foot to the final mantle on the last pitch.

Not as harsh (on your well-being) as other Meltsi problems. First move requires some effort.

Upper part is really good (and easy). Would get more traffic if there was a way to protect the sketchy first section. Climbed the start with a preplaced cam.

There will be blood. Easter Egg: no-hands rest.

Climbs well but the left arete hunts for skin!

Quick taste of Zion on the way to the Pacific. Bring extra grey and purple C4s for the third pitch.

Steep continuous finger cracks. Five stars any day and maybe the best climb of the trip. Finished to the right through the 5.11 bolted face.

A climb not to be missed (even if it takes a bit of hiking). Thin hands straight up (with some proper caving action on the first pitch).

"The first pitch of Thin Ice might be the best pitch of its grade in California". Amazing exposure and summit.

Doesn't look like much but climbs really well! Decent double arete with straightforward compression moves.

tricky < 185 < soft

Science friction!

Good excuse to do the Prism mantle again from a lower angle. Toe hook makes the climb a bit easier.

Had to figure out a detour after the first two moves to avoid the heavily polished foothold. Tough one!

Amazing surroundings by the sea.

Funky start moves! Would be three stars without the hideous topout. Did a campus exit from the right.

A bit like Kun Jari Koskee but leaning over you. Smear-ish foot jam with right heel hook makes the crux way much easier. Natural line (with both aretes) beats this one in quality.

Not recommended to anyone under any circumstances. 1st go when dry.

Surprisingly good climb with more than heinous topout! Pumped? Insert a chicken wing to rest before pulling up on the ledge half way.

Did the (super) wide gaston move from arete! Decent extension to Pygmyrina!

Careful with the sketchy half loose foothold. Nice slab climb for warming up. Might be slightly easier than proposed 7A.

Edlinger footprints.

Goes with both - technique or power.

Really fun problem minus sharp side-pull.

Priceless.

Still struggling to link the sit start moves together. Absolute classic even without the first few moves.

Cool traverse with a lot of good holds. Liked the downhill part especially.

Both technical and full of delicate compression moves from start to the last high step mantle. Topout or die. Climbed without the jugs left from the arete.

Less violent variation to Bonemine following the same great arete. Easier for taller climbers.

Massive deadpoint! Managed to bang my head against the rock a few times while trying to grab the arete. Topout is really cool and easy.

Tough start! Check closely and you'll find a jug inside a mole hole below the topout tree.

Weird gaston move to the top jug. Easy once you find the balance. Setting outweighs the boulder quality.

Power pinch and delicate footwork. Careful with the polished start!

Can't believe I'm saying this out loud but I really liked the sit start. Quality problem with a lot of cool moves.

What an effort! Afternoon direct sunshine, burning slopers and jam inferno. Beer couldn't have tasted any better!

Soupy sloper action after downpour. Heel hook beta.

Learned how to layback upside down. Toe hook drop knee beta.

Big moves on superb rock.

Outdoor campus board. Liked the sketchy friction topout.

Gives a nice burn for other harder lines. Try it out!

Five star Font double arete! Do this!

East city beer beta. Knee rehab.

Another great warmup for Chippendale. Similar reachy shoulder move.

Good way to warm up for Chippendale. Brushed the top.

Few nice moves with tricky heel hook topout.

Well, not worth it unless you're really into gaston deadpoints. Boulder looks cool though!

Spicy start! Forget the pinch and go with pinky-crimp-gaston instead! Rest is pure pleasure with good holds and big half-dynamic moves.

Jesus beta with tiny incuts for feet. Awesome route with easy access.

Fun route with a lot jugs and way too many tick marks.

Must-do for slab fanatics! Small cams and nuts.

Got spooked of the slab but it turned out to be super easy. Just go for it! Really nice moves from start to the end.

Shoulder burn! Swing directly to the slopers!

Bit of imagination and you'll find yourself topping out holding a juggish pinch instead of slapping the polished slopers. Easy.

Excellent climb and not too fierce on your fingers as there are occasional footholds and toe jams available! Limited / sketchy gear before the topout.

Just awesome! Bring a few extra BD#3 and BD#4 cams.

Looks simple but turned out to be extremely technical. Carried a mat to protect the delicate start sequence.

Led the second pitch through a deserted hawk's nest filled with rotten rats and bones. Dihedral is super good and nowadays you can access the route without the boat.

Interesting combination of overhanging sport climbing and jamming. Big rest halfway.

Nice traverse with a spicy start.

Better to stick with the original...

Got interesting answers where the original line goes and selected the most common version that starts from the ramp. Upper part was really good.

Continuous finger crack with a big rest halfway. Felt hard - slightly damp after rain. Bring doubles at least for grey and purple cams.

Good warm-up for Granitbiten and other routes nearby.

Easy but definitely worth the visit. Superb climbing all the way up. Not really a classic finger crack but more like thin hands with occasional finger locks...

Nice warm-up for the other lines.

Used ad hoc aiders to climb through a soaking wet dihedral section on pitch two. Pitch four totally amazing!

Rainstorm aid climbing on the last pitch.

The name really tells it all. Short and powerful! Bring small cams.

Never thought it's this good what's usually under dirt and moss. Thanks for those who did the cleaning this year!

Struggled to find beta for going over the bulge. Upper slab is totally amazing!

Awesome splitter!! Don't forget to tape your fingers before you give it a try. Take some doubles for small cams.

In two pitches. Led the second part. Nicely exposed but never too hard. Slippery when hot.

Short but a few nice moves. Can be climbed after walking down the cliff.

Reachy moves with big holds. Last route of the day at sunset.

Nice double crack with juggy finish. Good warm-up.

Really liked the thin and technical finger crack dihedral in the middle section. Chimney reminded me of primary school biology class.. Did some cleaning while rappeling down.

Managed to get my finger stuck between a cam and the crack. Blood and despair but managed to struggle to the top..Maybe a cleaner ascent next time. Super classic!

Short bouldery line with 5 bolts. Traverse burns your arms pretty quickly if you try to look for non-existent foot holds.

Deserves more stars! Nice slabby line that follows the dihedral-ish crack system all the way to the top.

Forgot to buy beer! Damn. Nice sunset!

Violent battle! Fingers totally numb rest of the day.

Big, reachy moves and technical footwork! Zero commit level.

Couldn't figure out how to get off the ground.. Quite straightforward after the first few moves.

Sorrrry broke one hold from the middle section (00:13). Now there's a crimp instead of a pinch... Not sure if it really affects the grade. Nice line after all...

Good jamming all the way to the jugs at the top. The rock is a bit sharp so you might want to add some tape before you give it a try. Nice warmup for the other lines!

1st try. Shares the start with Master.

Liked the first part with painful finger thrashing. Also managed to broke off a 15cm block by fisting too deep. No effect on the grade whatsoever.

Little damp but doable. Deserves more stars. Continuous and technical.

Not very continuous but still worth the effort. Especially the thin crack up the upper section bulge was nice.

Superb line minus the fingery sport climbing part. Placed one MasterCam#0 in the finger crack to avoid the ass-to-tree whipper.

Last route of the day. Fingers totally thrashed but still managed to find the way up this technical line filled with finger locks and delicate balancing.

Slightly overhanging thin hand crack. Keep up the speed to avoid massive pump.

Awkward dihedral.

Amazing splitter crack with perfect finger locks - only a bit short. Climbed without touching the flakes on the right.

Mega epic ascent in full storm. Total whiteout after Storhylla. Hurricane winds almost threw us off the wall on pitch 7. Slanting Corner was a masterpiece. One of the best climbs so far.

Tricky crux section - try to figure it out before you go for the moves. Micro cams useful.

Monster jugs! Lot easier than it looks.

Good route! Especially the first and second pitch minus the overhang on first.

Crowded. Consider the other routes nearby.

Neverending cracks on perfect rock. Led all 7 pitches.

Slipped on the first pitch. Not much of a line but 2nd and 3rd pitch are still good climbing.

Climbed clean. No bolts.

Solo.

Bit short but still has some nice jamming. Definitely easier for taller climbers.

Technical finger crack with awkward top-out. Good climbing but slippery when hot.

Failed miserably on first go and found myself flying after trying to climb the upper section with bad finger jams. Laybacking was the key to this classic.

Haven't really climbed too many slabs so it's hard to say anything about the grade. Toes totally thrashed after too many lines..

Few nice moves on sketchy finger jams.

Felt nössö and pulled myself up without using the notorious death blocks. Top roped some years ago.

Spoiled the onsight some years ago with a top rope solo. 1st lead try. Careful with the technical start and limited pro.

2nd go. Got super pumped after fixing nuts as the crack didn't eat cams that well. Felt hard - not sure if I missed some face holds though.. Obvious slightly overhanging crack that eases a bit in the upper section.

Bit too wide for my fists..

Exceptional fissure crack - easy but great for warming up.

Perfect finger crack with round edges. Two fixed pitons in the upper section.

Technical layback-ish crux with good gear below. Juggy finish.

Few nice moves in the dihedral.

Climbed clean with bomber placements. Needs crowbar.

Slippery footwork, +50C

One or two nice finger locks.

Test run for X4 offwidths. Bit pumpy for warm-up.

Fell off on 1st try. Couldn't figure out the bouldery crux moves. Nice middle section.

Nice hand jamming all the way to the bolted anchor.

Hmmm, snow at the top.

Kustavi was wet. City bouldering with King Kebab.

Scary middle section! :/

Tough battle!

Pumpy traverse at the start.

Terrible start.

Terrible rebolting. Hard to reach without pre-placed draws.

Exposed with limited pro. Scary Montserrat clásico.

If you're too pumped after the slippery start section, sit down on the juniper tree before the bouldery finish.

Big jugs.

Soapy traverse.

Cosmic pump endurance test for warm-up.

Bomber pro.

Continuous hand/finger crack with a cranky start.

Careful with the crux. The old bolt has been replaced with mental motivation. Good chances to hit the deck if you fail the move.

Warm up your fingers, crimpy stuff.

Definitely worth a star. Easy for tall climbers.

Rope gets heavy if you place too much gear during the traverse.

Hard for the grade if the arete is excluded.

Consider the bolted line of Magma Red for the lower part.

Tricky!

Soft.

Nice mix of cracks and face climbing.

Death Row Hangover.

5-?

One move wonder.

Followed some years go.

Can be tricky for short climbers.