Jon Sauls

2nd go

Great movement from start to finish on quality rock. Intricate footwork and a little shoulder tension down low brings you through the crux and into 20 more feet of easier, but beyond sketchy climbing. Probably shouldn't have done this one alone. Can't wait to go back and link this with Bruce Lee (V6).

Either this is contrived at V5 or I climbed the wrong line. Either way, what I climbed was a drag.

So soft for the grade. Perhaps my height helped? Disappointingly easy, but a great problem with quality rock.

One intense body tension move with bad feet. The V8 that starts on the same holds seems impossible.

Fun.

Maybe I am just tall, but this seemed soft for the grade.

4th go. Unique.

Finally got this project after so many attempts. Found the sweet spot on the crimp and sent next go!

Got this butt dragger after not trying for a long time. Good movement with a good heel. Would be three stars without the constant dab potential.

2nd go. Much easier with Geoff's beta.

Fun movement. Sandbaggery.

Finally got this cheese grater of a midget. Good movement, but oh so sharp. Fun day with Stacy and Paige.

2nd go. A move.

Contrived.

A little committing with no spotter, but fun!

6th go. Was quite surprised when I reached the top so soon. Wish I had had a spotter.

Didn't even realize I was climbing this classic. First multi-pitch.

Climbed in pouring rain. Super spicy on the soaked slab with the run out and the drenched move over the bulge. Felt like solid 11a with the rain.

2nd go. Screwed up the onsight by missing the bucket jug by an inch. Long reaches in the roof on good jugs to a finger locking crux. Climbed a lot like F.O.A.

10 feet of 5.10 crux followed by 60 feet of 5.7...meh.

Little contrived, but a cool dynamic move.

Awesome slab

Fun, but short and short crux. Got all the moves on Slammer my first time on. Hopefully will send next time.

Good climb on perfect crimps

Classic high-ball. Kind of a reversed, easier version of Mavericks. Bad landing.

2nd go

Settin up toprope. Superb climb!

Lay back crack with a few finger jams. Hard for me. Spent too much time figuring it out and got quite pumped. Vince did well on it for his first time outside!

Good warm up. Tricky, heady crux with unique movement. Got all the moves on 10 Digit. Will go next time.

Settin up a toprope for Karen. Would never let her lead a route with a 20 ft runout, even if it is 5.6

One move wonder. Literally, one move. Kinda boring.

2nd go.

I probably attempted this up to 30 times before sending. Good problem, but hard for me.

Probably one of the cooler "11s" I have done. Was fun to flash a classic.

Fun footwork with a dynamic move to an awesome jug.

Felt difficult for the grade. Good movement involving a gaston crimp and heel hook, but too sharp.

First of the grade. Heel hook made it much easier. Too sharp to be a quality line.

Maybe first of the grade. Felt more like V6 because of my height. Either way, was glad to send.

11c slab. Super insecure, but very good. 2nd go.

Sharp crimps at the start into some cool holds. Want to go back for the V8 sit start.

2nd go. Really good flow. Quite soft for the grade...

Short, but cool tension moves off the start into a nice heel hook. Nasty crystal slopers for the topout.

3rd go. Awesome beta from Beans.

2nd go. Big throw and a nice heel hook. Definitely played to my strengths. Good day with Jeremy.

One move wonder, but solid V4 all the same. Awkward start on hillside. Pretty dumb.

Another one move wonder, but much better. I did a lower start and skipped the crappy sloper. Cool, dynmaic move to a crimper facing the wrong way.

Felt harder than its neighbor, Ace in the Hole (5.10a), but I am sure the cold didn't help on such a technical route. Difficult finger jams paired with slabby balance, not to mention wind hard enough to almost blow my shirt off. First sport route of the season.

6th go. Was easy, but underestimated it. Many heel hooks; definitely my style. Classic.

Meh. Cool first moves into a stupidly hard topout. Tore up my forearms. Glad to be done with it after only a few goes.

2nd go of the day after a previous day of work. Was much easier once fresh. One of my all time favorites.

Unique holds with unique movement. Had to repeat for FA because the undercling broke.

Cool features that unfortunately get bigger the higher you go, making it a one move, sit start wonder. Still fun.

A little contrived, but good. 3rd go.

Probably should have done this another day. Melting snow made the crux crimps super wet. Made it waaaay harder. Still fun.

Only took a few goes. Apparently started on the wrong hold. Heel-toe cam for the win!

A weird move that for some reason tweaks my right oblique and shreds my right bicep. Then comes the shoulder tension, all the while using a crappy foot. Oh and then an awesome dyno for the end! What is not to love!

Worked me the first time I got on it way back when Jeremy visited during the summer. Got it second go today and felt really solid. Not so bad once the beta is fine tuned.

One move wonder. Did it just because. Nothing really special, except for the awesome pocket jug.

Someone really needs to clarify the problems on this boulder. It is called the Big Bird/ Fountaine Bleau Boulder and there are too many variations.

Not sure if this is the right name, but a girl on a climbing blog seemed to think so. Someone who knows Castlewood needs to clarify the area.

Took 3 goes. Wasn't warmed up the 1st go and there was a lack of chalk on the last few holds. Was awesome!

Stupidly fun, contrived, and grabbed a hand full of leaves instead of the end hold on my 1st go.

Who is the idiot chalked up some really low holds, making it look like the sit start to the problem. Did it easy once I stopped trying to climb like a midget. Gotta go back for the traverse!

If the other one was South Block Right, then surely this is... Couldn't find anywhere online. Gonna assume it is V2 and has been climbed.

Pretty difficult for the grade and Karen same close. Technical.

Finally sent. Went with the beta I originally thought was ridiculous. Very dynamic.

Cool crimp arete features. Very unorthodox, but fun.

Good 10- with nice pockets and crimps.

Easier than Overpass, but somewhat more of a thinker for us sucky crack climbers. A good warm up that shared anchors with Overpass, which made it perfect for setting up hanging draws.

Highest onsight thus far. Awesome exposed boulder problem to easy slab. Looks can be deceiving; the slabby start was surprisingly the hardest part.

Not too sure if I started this right, but then again, I am too worn out trying to keep up with the contrived problems in this area. Probably is a V5 if I would've started with both hands on the sloper...I guess one will do.

Sent on my third go. Amazing movement on unique holds. Loved clipping off the hand jam.

Topout crux

Pocket, 3-finger jam lock off...yea, weird.

Highball with the crux on the last two moves. Soooo spicy!

Finger jams, microfeet, and a spicy finish...what's not to love? The hardest and best "V3" I have ever done.

Such a hard throw, even for me. Once again slightly contrived, but still worth doing.

Crazy crux move falling into a hidden undercling. Really beta specific. This route would be hard to do first try for anybody. Took me two goes.

Kool holds. Did it dynamically. Easy, but fun.

Crimpy and kind of contrived

Hard topout. Maybe if it was cleaned would be solid V1 but certain holds were unusable because of dirt.

Micro feet on a dyno...not preferable, but still awesome.

Did the variation to the right that goes at mid 5.11

Tricky sequence of cruxes that get harder the higher you go. Sent it easily once I was able to do it fresh.

Took me two tries. Should have done it first try but I got twisted in the rope because of a bad belay spot and I have the rope burn to prove it. My height made it feel a little soft, but it was still an awesome route!

Awesome all points off dyno! This is supposedly the crux, but I had much more trouble with the crimpy section towards the top.

Beautiful line that required some sweet hand jams. My height definitely helped the crux anchor clip, rendering it cruxless.

First sport climb in Colorado. Weirdly made me more pumped than Campaign Trail. Reminded me of the climbing at Dardanelle in Arkansas.

A sloper turned into a jug once I decided to clean it, making it much easier.

Interesting gaston hand jam took a few goes to get used to. Was delayed by getting stung in the back by a wasp. Amazing route.

Looks can be deceiving. Horrible feet. Sharp edge took a chunk out of my toe rubber. Changed to dynamic beta for the send.

Quite the thinker. Took a few goes to figure out whether to get high feet or lunge for a crimp rail. Best route on such an awesome boulder. Might be easier than V4.

Took me a few goes mainly because holds kept breaking. I got the FA then had to redo it because a key hold broke, making it slightly harder. Walked away with bloody shins, hence the name.

Awesome link up of Rogue and A Rose Among Thorns. Took me three tries total. The hold used to combine the two routes definitely lives up to the name of the route.

Maybe has been done before. Once I figured out using my legs more than my arms, this problem got much easier. Surprised myself when I sent it.

Figured I would give it a go and was pleasantly surprised, except for the foothold breaking off near the top. More traffic on this route will make it less sketchy.

Took quite a few goes. Don't know why it was so hard. My beta is probably wack. Avoided the pinch jug because there were better holds that just needed cleaning. Stupidly awkward top out.

Awkward crux topout move just above the second bolt was made worse by the moss on the whole route. The dirtiness was expected for such a new route and it luckily climbed quite well.

Climbs a lay-back crack and iron crimps near the top. Got confused at the top (crux) and ruined the onsight. Got it on my second try.