Lofoten
Tuomo and I planned a trip to Lofoten, Norway. Tuomo had checked the rain statistics and for last 25 years the rain amounts had been about the same as for the June and July. That seemed nice and we loaded the Transporter full o'junk and started our 1600km journey to Norway.
As usual the rain started when we were driving towards west across Sweden. It rained the first day, second day was a very nice day and we managed to do some good climbing and we ticked some nice ascents. We climbed on Stem Bastensen and I made quick ascents to two nice problems by the road. A 7B and a 7B+. Then Tuomo cruised through one 6C+ and 7A on the Knight Rider -block. I amazed myself by climbing Michael Knight 7C+. It has a powerful and dynamic start to a sharp edge. I had to execute some delicate (yearrait...) foorwork in order to match my hands to the edge and to the topout via wet hold. Then we went to Tare Baby -stone and climbed some easier problems there. I tried Tare Baby but couldn't figure out one move - so we left that bit alone.
Then we went to Djupford and climbed Helmenkalastaja (7A) and Viileä Viive (7A). I think we got something wrong with the Helmenkalastaja because we flashed it easily. Viileä viive was really soft for its grade. Maybe 6C would be proper grade for the problem.
For a nice relaxing warm out we hiked to the top of one of the hills (or mountains?). As usual, the slope looked more easier as it really was. I was panting like a steam train while Tuomo basically run his way up to the hill using some 4 wheeled techniques. It was only my prize - Pepsi Max that kept me going all the way up.
We were really expecting for the days to come - even though the weather forecast didn't look so good. The next night and day rained day in and day out. The next day promised a small rainless window from 0800 to 1200. We set our alarm clocks and woke up. I tried to climb Presten roof but managed to fell from the topout on my first try. There was no second try, the rain started at 1030. We crawled under the Presten roof but when it started raining horizontally and rain poured 4 meters under the roof we decided to call it a day. Actually we decided to call it a Norway and headed to Rovaniemi.
After 10 hours of driving we arrived at Hiidenkirnut. And boy oh boy. It was NOT raining and the weather was so goooood. But it was also midnight so we went to sleep. The next morning was also perfect - not a single cloud in the skies. Good!
I didn't have much expectations but Tuomo was on fire. He ticked easily Planta Baja's problems like Planta Baja, Mantteli and Maria Sola (7B). He had also some very good tries to Uskonpuute, but couldn't hold the top hold. After a while I showed Tuomo some more problems. He cruised Pyramidi (7A) and some old classics like Perhonen and Los Cojones.
When the night fell, I climbed with Kalle and Jesse. I did quick ascents to Susiraja (7A+) and Rovaniemi - Helsinki All Night Long (7A) and failed miserably in Purple Turtle (7B).
The next morning we went to Martti Servo -block. One of the best single stones in Finland. The rock quality is amazing. It feels like sandstone but it looks like normal granite. Tuomo looked around for a while and decided to climb the best problem around - Pimp My Ride (7B+). The very same problem has been my Nemesis for quite some years now. I climbed the problem quite nicely and after a while, Tuomo sent it too. You can check the video from Vimeo.
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