Henrik Malmsten

Inte så tokig. Kanske 6a+? Det känns som större skillnad än en grad mellan den här (6b) och Tempelbyggaren (6b+). Vet inte vilken som borde justeras.

With Alex. Lead P2 and P4. Not so easy climbing.

Very good!

2nd go.

Good climb, but felt considerably harder than 6b (which the topo says). Used holds quite far to the left at the crux.

Almost only jugs. Felt easier than 6b from the topo.

Sharp grey rock.

2nd go.

Onsight on the extension only. Have climbed “Climbers nest” several years ago.

Great route. Awful conditions, hot and no wind.

På led nästa gång.

Slarvade och slant med foten på flash-försöket.

Som det står i föraren: ”Fin och luftig väggklättring”. Första 6c OS på granit på rätt länge. Kändes ganska lätt.

6c in 2019 guide, which seems about right. Fun climbing on usually good holds with less good feet, and some good rests in between.

7a in 2019 guide. More like 6c in my opinion. Still a nice climb with a delicate crux sequence.

Hard 6b+/easy 6c. Nice all the way, but the end was not obvious.

Not nice.

Great!

Interesting and not so easy crux sequence on small holds. The rest is much easier. Low end 7a.

Very nice. The crux is quite a lot harder than the rest of the route.

Technical with some sustained sections, but fortunately good rests in between. Not easy to read which holds to use. Very good!

Did both pitches in one push. 6b according to guide 2019. Nice climbing which felt a bit like a traditional route.

With Lilja. Lead the 2nd pitch.

Really pumpy first half, then easy on jugs to the top.

Ett flytt, resten lätt. Kanske lite lättare om man är lång.

Klättrade upp till vänster om sista bult första gången. Såg i föraren sedan att man skulle gå höger och fick göra om.

Mycket roligare än den såg ut att vara.

Fingersprickan var fin, men alldeles för kort.

Stod svårsäkrad i föraren, men det var inte så farligt. Gul offset-kil och gul X3 satt fint. Trevlig, men lite kort.

Teknisk och ihållande.

Nja...

Försökte den för många år sedan. Kort, men några roliga flytt.

2nd go. Läste slutet helt fel på flash-försöket. Kul led.

Två riktigt roliga sekvenser; ett svårläst krux och ett lite svårare utsteg är ledens behållning. Däremellan betydligt lättare klättring.

Exposed climbing for the grade.

2nd go.

2nd go. Is 7a in both the 2015 and 2019 guide, which feels about right. Two interesting cruxes.

Some easy climbing until it gets steeper and more interesting.

Excellent climbing. Low end 7a.

Short technical crux section, and the rest is fairly easy wall climbing. Very soft, might be 6c+.

2nd go. Could not clip the anchor on the flash attempt. Steep and fun climbing on the second half.

Very nice, continuous climb.

Continuous and very stiff for the 6b+ in the 2019 guide. I must have missed some holds for my onsight, it felt like at least 6c. Good route though.

2nd go. Very nice, but not close to 7a+ in my opinion.

2nd go. Very nice and very pumpy. Mostly good holds and not so hard moves.

Två förklippta.

I think not 7a as in 2016 guidebook. Too much rests. Very nice with increasing difficulty all the way to the anchor. Great middle section as well.

Very nice. Excellent bolting and fun climbing on the last four pitches. With Alex. Lead pitch 2, 4, 6.

Very nice upper part, with small holds and steps. A bit too soft for 6c+.

Great route. Steep 6a climbing and interesting final meters.

Short crux, the rest was easy. I think it's more like 6b+.

Very good!

Nice technical climbing the whole way.

Starten var inte bästa uppvärmningen en kall kväll i maj, men när man lärt sig den så var den inte så svår som den först verkade. Resten lättare.

7a in 2015 guide book, but not more than 6c in my opinion. Never 7a anyway. Not too bad though with a short, fingery crux.

The guide book is correct: "A steep start on good holds and an airy finish!"

7a in the 2015 guide, which might be too high, but I had to fight hard for the flash climbing in the sun. Excellent climbing!

Very nice and technical.

Bouldery start. Nice route.

Not too hard.

First pitch only.

Very nice technical climbing with some reachy moves between good pockets and not so good feet. 6c+ in 2015 guide book.

Sharp. Nothing special.

Much nicer than it looks. Lots of good sidepulls.

Pretty stiff start. Harder than 6a.

Harder than 6a. Hard crux in the middle section.

Good warmup.

Inte så tokig klättring. Nu är också toppen borstad.

Svårläst, greppfattig och balansig. Behövdes ett andra försök.

Topprepad för många år sedan. Nu på led med några kammar förplacerade efter Jonatans misslyckade Onsight-försök. De fick sitta kvar i stället för att bli nerblodade (av honom). Ganska lätt klättring förutom för en kortare bit som är desto bökigare.

Hade gärna fått vara lite längre.

Krimpig och hudslitande. Rätt kul ändå.

Delar sista metrarna med Diretissman. Annars onsight.

6c+ in new guide. Could also be hard 6c. Cool, steep start and then a bit easier, but still interesting, climbing to the chains.

Pretty stiff.

Multipitch. With Jonas. Lead pitch 3 and 4.

Great route! Three close failures two days ago. 7a+ in new guide which seems OK.

Not particularly good. One harder section, the rest was easier and not very interesting.

Tried it last year. Pretty good, but not so easy.

First failed try in 2007 and another failed attempt during warmup yesterday. Did not go down without struggle today either. Pumpy, steep final section.

Felt harder than Lucky Luca for me, but managed to hold it together through the final crux. Once again, perfect help with beta from Leah.

A quick ascent on the first red point attempt after working the sequences. Felt easy (for 7b) even with perfect help with beta from Leah. 7a+ in new guide book.

Really nice climbing on tufas and mostly reasonably good holds. Perfect beta from Robin.

Hard to read the crux, but once you know it, it is not too hard. Tried it once another year.

Gick ner oväntat lätt på andra försöket. I form och/eller så passade den mig bra. Krimpfest.

Första 7b.

2nd go. Brant. Gick lite till höger på utsteget, vilket kanske inte var korrekt.

No real hard moves, but quite sustained, and a pumpy end. Really good rest in the middle though. Very soft 7a+, might even be 7a.

Nice route. Had some trouble at the crux in the steep section.

Not bad.

Easy.

Shares first part with Cacoyannis.

Close to OS but fell at the top. Easy 2nd go. 6c+ in guide book, but 6c is probably more correct.

Much more interesting than it looks. Varied.

Excellent varied climbing. Not easy. Probably a bit intimidating to lead if 6a+ is your limit.

Fun climb. A bit reachy out of the top large hole.

Good route after the easy start.

Really nice 6a climbing.

Nice!

Nice easy climbing.

Fairly nice slab. A bit spaced bolts in the beginning.

Delicate start that set the grade. After that mostly good jugs to the anchor.

Fun climb, but it felt a bit easier than 6c.

Really nice second half, with slightly tricky climbing in the corner.

Good route. Thin and small foot steps.

Fingery crux. Soft 6c. First try some years ago.

Not easy for the grade, some tricky sections.

Nice middle section. The final slab was pointless, the anchor could have been lower.

Not bad. Good holds when you need them.

Tunn väggklättring med chans/risk för en liten susare efter sista bult, innan man når hyllan.

Svårläst, känslig och en smutsig urtoppning.

2nd go. Not too bad. Tricky, but still quite easy for 6c+.

A bit polished.

Really nice route with technical climbing.

Very interesting, sometimes tricky climb. 2nd go, tried it once another year.

2nd go, so probably close to 7a. Really nice climb and I had to struggle hard from the crux and all the way to the chain. Great beta from Ville on the crux.

On top rope many years ago.

Really hard. Steep and pumpy.

Jugs! A bit polished.

Steep climbing on small, but good, pockets. Felt a bit too easy for 6c.

One try last year. Not bad. Tricky final moves.

First try many years ago. Very fingery.

Technical start followed by straight forward climbing on mostly good holds.

Long and fun! Almost lost it twice in the last 5 meters but managed to hold on.