Wants to visit
Favourite crags and routes
Bishop's Peak in the area of Santa Maria, CA, USA
Bishop's Peak is located in the beautiful college town of San Luis Obispo, CA. The crag is located on the most prominent mountain peak in SLO, with a short beautiful hike through lush forest overlooking the town below. Although other walls cover the area, Cracked Wall is most visited, as it contains the widest variety of difficulty. Routes on Cracked Wall range from 5.6 to 5.12+. The crag is located directly off the walking trail with perfect areas to belay from, underneath shady trees and beautiful rock. The top half of each route finishes above the tree line, where, while you shake out and get psyched for the finishing moves, you can look back and see an even more spectacular view of SLO. Every line is bolted, with an approach from either side of the crag to set up top ropes across the wall. Climbers mainly consist of laid back college students who range from beginner to advance climbers, all of which are stoked to climb, and help out. In other words, this is a great place to bring beginners, or crush hard if you are an experienced climber. Pack a lunch and a hammock to belay from, meet some SLO friends, and enjoy a nice day on beautiful Bishop's Peak, Cracked Wall. Enjoy the SLO life!
The Brickyard in the area of Santa Barbara, CA, USA
The Brickyard is located high in the Santa Barbara Hills. Getting to the brickyard can be a bit tricky, but with a bit of help, and a little luck, you will find it! Once you emerge from the thicket, boulders appear everywhere! The Brickyard is a giant maze of boulders with many established and unestablished routes. Difficulty ranges from V0 to V12 at least! The problems also range from roofs just feet off the ground, to high balls that make you question how well you trust your spotters! A great place to come for an afternoon of crushing! Great rock features, of which are mainly sandstone, so that you don't go home thinking only of how fast you can apply Climb On.
Owl Torr in the area of Santa Maria, CA, USA
Owl Torr is a bizarre climbing area, that strangely has it's way of drawing you back for more. This small section of rock strategically placed in the outskirts of Santa Maria, CA is the tallest overhanging piece of volcanic rock on the central coast. The rock is covered with pre-placed draws on bolts that are replaced quite frequently. Although this wall has many fun routes, it should be known that the good graces of nature did not make the routes, but are instead chipped from the work of some random people. And although the chipping usually deters people from coming here, it is a way to pull down hard on "gym" style routes, while being outside! The difficulty ranges from 5.11a to a possible 5.15a? In other words, a place to take your biceps and introduce them to being twice their size. Check out the famous "Cave" route that has big moves along a traversing slope out of a cave! Getting to Owl Torr adds to the bizareness, and you may want to bring a four-wheeler to get there, although it is possible with a small car. After winding through the mountains along East Hwy 146, take a left turn at a ranch. Although you seemingly drive through the ranch property, it is not private property. Travel the eroded dirt road fro a while, stopping when you reach an area that has a culdesac as a dead end. There will be a trail to the left of the culdesac in which you want to take. The small trail will lead you to the overhanging section of wall that is Owl Torr! Bring plenty of water as it is desert, and you will be crushing hard! 60m rope is plenty length to rap from. Enjoy the bizarre and tough climbing that this wonder of rock presents.
Yosemite in USA
Yosemite. In yo face. World class climbing. Anyone who comes here is blown away by the beauty, the magnificence, and for a climber, the endless rock that floods the floor of the valley, and towers high into the sky. The hard granite tests endurance and footwork. With boulders rated from VO to V14, sport routes up to 5.14+, and endless amounts of trad climbing on some of the most classic, terrifying, rewarding, and majestic big wall routes. Anytime is a great to climb in Yosemite, and there are always climbers exploring the many routes, as well as climbing pioneers seeking the next FA. Yosemite has it all, and with the help of a guide book, and a solid knowledge of gear, it is an endless dreamland of climbing that reminds you why it is such a beautiful thing to be alive. Come prepared to crush, hang out in Camp 4 with tons of other climbers, and feel the beauty of climbing, and the beauty that is Yosemite!
Mickey's Beach in the area of San Francisco, CA, USA
Mickey's Beach is a unique climbing area. It literally has climbs that cruise over the crashing waves from the ocean below. A great all around area with easy, top-ropable routes, to hard 5.14 leads. The protruding rock has beautiful views of northern california beaches. Beware, if you want to boulder (which there is plenty of), you run the risk of naked guys walking around, as climbing is not the only thing going on around this nudist beach. An interesting and fun day of climbing to say the least!
Buttermilks in the area of Bishop, USA
The Buttermilks is a fantasy area of bouldering. When driving into the small town of Bishop, CA, it seems unlikely that there is world class problems tucked away towards the beautiful scenic mountains in the background. Driving to the Buttermilks takes you away from the town, towards the towering High Sierra mountain range in the distance. There is currently no street sign that points to the long dirt road that leads you to the Buttermilks, but trust your gut and let the boulders guide you there. After winding on the dirt road a last bend hides the beautiful bouldering that is the Buttermilks. The towering boulders sit scattered among a hillside. Even if you were not a climber, the immense size of the boulders, and unique rock formations cut from them make you feel as if you are wandering into a land of monsterous creatures, frozen in time. After the initial shock of the beautiful rocks, endless paths cut to infamous boulder problems ranging from VB to V14. The Buttermilks test your true mental strength, as you climb up a V0 to warm up, and the ground becomes dangerously far away, that V0 becomes a whole new problem. The height and movement of each route is so unique and intense that once you have worn your fingers and mind down, and slowly built it up again, the accomplishment when you top out is an explosion of emotion. World class climbers come to the Buttermilks frequently to test their projects, and their highball mental state. The rock is gritty beneath your fingers, leaving only the rugged or taped hands to long days of climbing. But because of the rough texture, sticking to the rock questions your existence as a gecko. Climb in the Buttermilks when it is cold; the friction is great, the snow on the mountains is beautiful, and there are plenty of climbers to warm up to. You can camp directly in the Buttermilk area, even though it is not technically a designated camping area. Just respect the environment, and everyone will be able to wake up to the sunrise casting enormous shadows across the ground from the beautiful boulders. There is also a legitimate camp about 20 minutes from the boulders known as "The Pit." There you will find a designated camp area in a giant pit, nice bathrooms, and a 2 dollar fee per night, per car. The Buttermilks is an amazing place to be. Bring your focus, strong fingertips, many spotters, and even more crash pads. Enjoy the serenity of the landscape and snow covered mountains, the beautiful and colorful sunrises and sunsets, and be humbled by the rocks that are giants among us.
Devil's Punch Bowl in the area of Los Angeles, CA, USA
I grew up 15minutes from here. Once I fell in love with climbing I searched hard for nearby climbing, and this is where I found. There are a handful of bolted sport routes, that are really hard to find. Ask the ranger for a map that at least leads you in the right direction. Finding the climbs are half the battle, as well as living through many snakes and mountain lions around. The rock is unique in that it seems like it is a giant cookie that has been crumbled apart. In other words,there are many small rocks that make up the wall. Therefore, there is no real route, and therefore no real difficulty grade. There are however many surprisingly high walls, with routes that vary from 5.5 to 5.13 (again, they change constanly due to rock re-formation)Beware of loose rocks, as there are many, and try not to fall, because who knows how those bolts were placed. But hey, if you are in need for climbing, and are down to tackle some elements, the Devil's Punch Bowl is a nice hot place to check out. The devil may punch you in the face.
Star Wall in the area of Reno, NV, USA
Star Wall is located in beautiful Lake Tahoe, CA. Wind up through Donner Pass Summit, through tons of crags on either side of the road, some explored, some not yet! Find the appropriate cut off and park. The trail is across the road, and starts on an obvious trail. The trail leads through beautiful forest full of rocks on either side, and a river cutting carefully through it. The Star Wall appears in the distance slowly, allowing you to slowly take in the enormous wall. Make your way to the wall and find it covered in routes, safely protected with pre-placed chain draws. Routes range from 5.12a to 5.14. Amazing classics cover the wall, including Warp Factor (5.13a). Enjoy the overhanging wall that overlooks a beautiful surrounding. Bring warmed up muscles, which will be tested with the overhanging wall :)
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