Costin Morariu

Beautiful route.

Hard, deserves a +. 2nd go.

Athletic moves on good holds. The start is a bit harder. Nice line.

For me the hardest step was to get from the left arête (crimps) to the slopper ledge on the middle of the face. From there the beta involved a left heel hook and a right knee bar. Probably a 7A+ boulder problem, solid 7b+ sport for me. 7 goes in total.

2nd go. Messed up the exit, read it wrong on the first go.

A bit harder than the light version. 1st go since I did the light variation some time ago.

Bouldery start. Right side variant at the middle, without the jug, but with the side pulls under it. Not my favourite type of route, but interesting enough to give it 2 goes.

Lost the number of tries. Couldn’t do more than 2 per session because I’ve been using a beta with some small, sharp hand holds, heavily damaging my skin. Didn’t touch the ledge to the left because that would have got me out of the hand holds line, I’m shorter than Nils 😀. The route is super interesting. Very sensitive on feet and fingery (if one can’t skip over the tiny holds). I didn’t have problems to execute individual moves/sequences from the first try, but I had hard times sticking to the small crimps under the top, when coming from the bottom (trying to send the route).

Failed first to exit the roof with campus approach. 2nd go easy.

2nd go. One long move to a hidden jug which I missed on the first go.

First go after trying several times the 7c variant.

Nice crux.

With beta from Christian, rushed to the top on the last ascend of the day. Nice and easy. Cool moves on a slightly overhanging arête.

Didn't use the bolts for the sent. The first 4 Alien cams fit perfectly to protect this route. Solid 6c/+ trad for me. Went first go clipping the bolts and slipped in the middle. Looking at the crag felt pity it has been bolted, so I took the Aliens and sent it without the bolts on the second go.

Didn't use the crag, but climbed outside on the arête.

Dirty. Went on it to put the qds on the right side route. The bolts make no sense, the crag on the upper part is perfect for cams.

Warming up for the close by 7c.

Nice, but sharp. I guess isn't an onsight since I climbed first the left variation.

One short intense crux on crimpy holds, isn't at all ideal for worming up.

2ns go. Easy 7a+.

4th or 5th go. Totally misread and messed up the beta in the last part.

2nd go.

2nd go. 3 hard moves in the overhang and done. Right hand sidepull bumped once, then left hand fist jam, then bumped it into the jug and done with a long move to a sidepull right of the top for right hand.

Starts and ends hard.

2nd go.

Straightforward handholds, tricky footwork. Unusual kind of route for Stockholm, resembles more to limestone. Harder than expected.

Trad climb for me.

2 distinct steps. one in the middle and one at the top. The middle one feels harder. 2nd go.

The crux is to go over the top. 2nd go.

Good crag.

Solid 7a+ for me. Went in the 3rd go of a late after work, almost in the dark with a head lamp. I thought to use this route to fast warmup and jump on something harder afterwards. Silly me! The crimpy start put me down couple of times in a row. After the 3rd bolt is indeed a nice 6c ish warmup till the top.

Nice trad, pumpy, solid 6c+ for me. Bit dirty on the last part where I slipped and took a nice fall over the ledge removing a piton. Luckily I placed a nut under the piton, which stopped me. Initially I intended to skip it since I saw the 2 pitons and the diedral is easy. The pitons should be removed from this route, they only give false sense of protection. DON'T TRUST THEM! Bomber places for nuts and cams.

Violent for the skin. If you like small crimps and unstable feet positioning, this route is for you. Went down in the 3rd go for me. Tried couple of times to go straight up in the last diedral, before the top. Felt hard for a 7b+/7c. I took the the left edge with a long move from the super sharp undercling and then went straight up on it. That variant makes it a solid 7b+ for me.

2nd go. Nice sequence, it's building up and the crux comes at the end. Easy for a 7b. First bolt is quite up.

2nd go. Crimpy hard (for the grade) start, nice dyno after the middle, ends on tricky easy moves.

Love it.

Best trad route I climbed so far in Stockholm

3rd go.

Soft 7c. The top was quite tricky to clip. I got fulled first day by the 2 quickdraws someone left in the top, probably to clip reachy from the good undercling. Once the route was cleaned I was forced to do one more move for clipping the top which was a better approach.

2nd go for me. Good route to onsight (constant moderate difficulty without a crux) unfortunately I was too tired.

2nd go. Didn't read it correctly in the upper cruxy part.

3rd go. Missread 2 times in a row the cruxy part after the little start roof.

The route has 3 pitches. Me and Arvid did it in one go till the top with an 80m rope.

Long route with hard part at the end. I spent too much time on it, 5 tries.

2nd go. Hard.

2nd go. Slab step at the middle, quite nice.

2nd go. The pocket after the overhang was full of water and so the onsight was splashed :).

First half is easy. The crux is in the middle followed by several pumpy moves. Easy 7a.

Second part of the route goes into the big overhang and climbing through it is scary nice. 2nd go for me.

Crimpy start, sustained till the middle / exit of the overhang.

So close to onsight this one. I fell from the top. 2nd go. Cool sustained route.

Crimpy crux at the middle. 2nd go. Hard 7a+ or easy 7b.

Cool moves. The style of climbing changes from athletic with mono finger to crag finger locks, slopers and ends on delicate crimps. It took me several tries to nail it. At the beginning I had a very hard direct beta on the middle part but Nick showed me a much easyer traverse to the right variant.

It worth more ascents. From the ground looks dirty but it's quite OK. Loved it.

2nd go.

Borrowed some beta moves from Christofer and managed to send it in 3 goes this time. I think I tried it some time ago, one go.

Thanks to Nick who uncovered a good beta this went easy as a flash.

Very nice trad. I slipped at beginning and took a fall in the black small Alien cam. Second go went well.

I didn't use the bolts neither the pitons.

I didn't use the bolts.

Nice moves all the way. First half is harder. 5 goes in total to send in 2 or 3 trips always with other plans or without :).

Warming up with Nick. Easy for 7a but hard for 6c+.

This is a hard 7a for me. 3rd go.

Fooling around in Stockholm with the trad rack. Nice, easy, short route.

Very nice route. Sustained after the slab part with harder moves in the middle and a very fine, technical ending. 2nd go for me. I went for an onsight but I failed to read it correctly and slipped. There was no chalk on the wall.

2nd go in total.

As the majority of the routes on the wall the first half is more difficult.

Starts hard on small holds, ends pumpy on long steep moves. There is a side pull hold for right hand at the beginning of the crux that will brake at some point. 2nd go this time, 3rd in total.

Soft.

Nicer than I thought it would be. 2nd go.

2nd go. Megadans + extension. Nothing hard on the extension just tricky feet moves under the top.

One long move in the middle from a small crimp (left hand) to a good ledge (for right hand). Have to trust and load the weight on the right foot.

2nd go. Very nice route! One hard move that stands out of the rest from a slopper. The bolting style is different than for the rest of the routes around and I really enjoyed the clipping only where it's needed. It may seem scary but it fits me.

2nd go. Hard for the grade.

2nd go. Hard for the grade.

4th go in total. Tried it last week 2 times. Felt easy after I saw a girl doing a knee bar at the beginning, in the overhang. I couldn't rest in the second knee bar under the top but that wasn't hard for me. I loved the second half.

3rd go.

3rd go.One hard move over 3rd bolt with a right hand gaston.

It was hard to solve the beta in the middle part. 5th go for me.

2nd go.

2nd go. The crux is at the beginning. Dirty.

2nd go.

Nicer than Mr.Walker but same difficulty. There were perfect conditions today at the crag, 3rd go.

Spent 5th tries in total on it. Today it felt easy, 2nd go.

Hard bouldery moves at the beginning. I fell nasty 2nd go clipping the 3rd bolt and hit a rock on the ground. Needed 2 more goes to red point it with some pain in the foot.

2nd go.

2nd go.

For me this was very hard 7b+, probably because I can't do the knee bar, everybody else does. I had 9 tries in total to send it.

Solved it with couple of deadpoint moves in a row after some long falls. The protection before the hard step could have been placed higher. The hard part is bouldery nice.

Very nice route. First half a cool crag and second half nice bouldery moves on slopers. The hardest sequence for me was in the second half to grab and move over a pinchy book of rock to a sloper ledge. I headpointed it, 5 top rope + 3 lead tries to send it. During the lead tries I flew couple of times from the second half. Bomber placements for the gear.

Cool slab with a crux in the first 3 meters. 2nd go for me.

One hard crimpy move in the middle.

2nd go. Cool sloppers.

2nd go. I solved the hard step from the top with a right hand dynamic move. The start of the route is interesting too.

A lot of balanced moves on feet. It's strangely bolted in the upper part.

Three moves in the overhang followed by tricky slab. 7 tries in total.

Nice moves even if it has some chipped holds. Very steep and demanding for my fitness. I needed 17 tries in total.

First go this time, 4 tries in total. Scary to clip couple of protections.

2nd go.

2nd go.

3 nice bouldery moves in the overhang. 4 tries in total, during 2 visits to the crag.

I like the step from the upper part. Long move with right hand than gentile hook with left heel. 6 tries in total, during 3 visits to the crag.

Very hard 6C+

Nice route, one of the best I found in Stockholm, little overhang at the start, vertical in the middle and than slab ending. Crimps, pinches and slopers. Very hard for me at this point. It was desperate to send it, 18 tries in total, during 5 trips. I'm not used to work so much a route.

2nd go, soft 7c, maybe 7b+ is more appropriate, with Nick and Andreas

2nd go

2nd go

Hard 7b

2nd go

2nd go

First two moves are difficult enough to make me disagree with 6B. At least a + is needed to correct the grade. Otherwise the route has nothing special.

So easy this time, probably the temperature and the mood were right this time. I succeeded with little bit different approach than seen in betas. The balance is the key.

Solved with a little bit different sequence than Jonas Solen beta. Even I tried several times to find my way, since I haven't seen the beta prior climbing it, I liked the route. Balance and finger strength.

sds