Chris Smallwood

Bulk upload of climbs May-October 2021

Came so close on 1st attempt, botched beta on 2nd attempt, then barely squeaked it at the end of the day. Still have the full line w/ direct start to do.

Keeping my Solarium resume up to date, still haven't done Helios though...

Climbed it again because one of the crux knobs broke since our last day here. Still goes with gaston beta but a bit harder and way more shouldery. Too bad because Hannah was super close to sending before the break.

FFG. Really enjoyed this one, huge lock-off to undercling was rad!

FFG. Rad, took a lot of beta sussing first go but managed to put it together on the second!

FFG, loving the climbing here!

Resistent 4th

Cool wall for how short it is.

ffg

ffg

Always wanted to climb this feature! Pumped off above the last bolt a few times before sending including falling off the very last move, exciting fall without the last bolt clipped!

Retro-Flashing.

Finally a full day of climbing in the sun despite everything still being damp. Darkside was dripping...

Having Fun.

Getting Mileage.

Felt too hard to be 12b, good climb and a bit spicy

Such a fun route, Hannah's new project after sending Snooker the other day, her first 13!

Flash? Retro BR?

Finally didn't punt off after the no hands rest!

First try this year, tried it once or twice years ago

Hannah's Bday! Just belayed besides this climb and she sent RoShampo, this one and Wild Gift today! Good times!

Couldn't make that damn crux clip so I skipped it and clipped it at my ankle once I was on the jug ledge. Fun movement but kind of frustrating with that clip.

FFG, Hannah did it 2nd try too!

FFG

Hard

3 tries today, plus 1 or 2 a couple years ago. Very surprised to find myself through the boulder problem, such a burly sequence.

Better rests but harder moves than The Suffering. 12b/c

FFG

FFG. 12d? Odd climb because the low boulder problem is quite difficult but then the endurance climbing to the anchors is easier than a lot of the other routes nearby.

3rd try, cool moves but eats skin

2 tries today, think I tried it a couple times in a previous season

FFG, rested out right, didn't feel as off route to do that as it looked from the ground

FFG

FFG, endurance is coming back!

FFG

FFG

FFG

FFG

One of the bolts pulled out of the wall later in the day after I climbed it.

Adds a fun start to Crystal Ball. Gets 12d but probably closer to 12c

can't remember the last 5.12 that took as many tries as this...

foot slipped after crux on second go, classic rifle

Took forever to figure out a sequence on the first go then surprised myself and did it second try!

Great last day of our Red season! Two 13b/c routes in a day and nearly did Easy Rider at the end of the day as well!

Redemption after punting off a couple days earlier after all three cruxes and about 100 feet of climbing. Rad climb that is easy to break down into manageable sections but doing them back to back is tough!

Had this one on my mind for many years. Such a beautiful wall with rad technical and physical moves. Felt pretty tough for the grade compared to other 8a's at the Red. Didn't realize how hard it would be to keep it together after the crux but really had to fight the pump! Great end of the season!

Thin up top! Great climb, nice job Hannah!

Fantastic! Aesthetic and climbs so well! Punted off on the last easy move first try of the day because I forgot my beta. Tried to down climb a move while totally flamed and imploded. Luckily managed it after two more tries this day. Brandon is agonizingly close as well!

Kind of an adventure for a sport climb. Some chossy rock just made the experience all the more fun!

FFG The slopey pinches through the bottom are really cool then a full recovery rest to an alright but very thin crux. Good route.

YESSSS! So stoked to do this climb! 19 tries over 6 days and many 1-hangs. Couldn't believe I did it after three Thanksgiving rest days, was just planning on hanging the draws and getting the body reacquainted but I held on! Such a worthy climb for all the effort, definitely my hardest climb to date and one of the best I've ever done! Ecstatic!

Mindless but fun climbing out the steepness. Lots of hard projecting and repeating classic 12's since the 11/11 send spree. Having a great time climbing so many classics as part of the warm up and digging deep on the inspiring hard lines.

Almost flashed earlier in the trip, barely falling on the upper crux throws after getting through the hard low crux. Third try overall, suited me well!

Built up some power endurance and raced through the pump! Good conditions and fitness aligned a month into the trip and everyone sent today! Hannah and Ben both did Stain, Hannah then flashed and onsighted two more 12a's at the Chocolate Factory making for her hardest redpoint, flash and onsight all in the same day plus first triple 5.12 day. I did this hard 13b and a 13c in a day making for one of my best days ever!

So fun, one of the best at the Sanctuary! Big dead points up top!

So cool, vertical to horizontal roof to undertow steepness headwall!

Cool roof down low similar to the dugout at Rocktown then some funky crimping up top and finished in a wet water streak to keep it spicy up top.

Another classic route, really surprising that I did it in a day. Sussed the beta first go, made it to the last move second go but couldn't muster the energy for one more big move. Went down to Narcissist Cave and came back to the Coliseum in the evening to find the whole cave covered in condensation. Decided to try anyways and somehow made it through the crux with damp holds and took it to the top in the dusk light, exciting!

Cool thin climbing

Amazing climb! Almost flashed earlier in the trip but slipped off a big dead point up high. Ultra classic climbing from the dihedral boulder problem through to the big tosses up high.

So thin... got scared years ago, got scared again today

Fun adventure

Funky line linking between huecos but good climbing nonetheless

Took the left line of holds. Cheating? Contrived otherwise.

Yessss! Second try this season but countless tries in years past, so classic, so amazing!

Amazing climb! Beautiful and great movement with a spicy mantle move up top! Finally got redemption!

FFG

FFG

one of the better climbs in the area

First try today, tried it once on my first trip here 5 years ago and got shutdown

super fun

FFG short and sweet

Surprised myself and did this in three tries, one session. Just as many tries as Bobcat Logic

Pretty sure I tried this once a couple years ago but I really can't remember. First try this trip anyways

Messed up the boulder problem sequence clipping the second bolt, took, lowered and then sent. Really cool and difficult moves down low to a much easier but still fun bulk of the route.

woah....

FFG, bouldery compression up top, nice way to wrap up the trip.

Felt good to do this one pretty quick after struggling with Elephant Man, three goes.

Awesome route, took three days of battling the hot conditions to take it down

Probably the first 5.12 I ever tried, nice to return to it.

FFG

Surprised myself! My goal for the day was to link up to the last rest but ended up doing it second shot of the day. Fun and unique movement! 13b/c

FFG

couple of tries

FFG

Sweet! Finished up in a drizzle

DWS! Great day out on the water with a fun group of people. So happy we were able to get one day of deep water soloing in before we left! Super fun route as well!

Fun and varied climbing, through a jumpy overhang, then tufas and a pocket pulling headwall...great!

Amazing route with fun runouts! Happy I decided to try it finally, desperate crux move to sloping edge. 5 tries in total.

Rainy Day, hung out at the crag all morning waiting for the cliff to dry. Had trouble with the dyno to a sloper in the middle but eventually linked it all together

Couldn't pull the bottom moves but went to the top from the first draw

FFG, big old drive by move off a sidepull and bad feet, exciting!

FFG. Crux moves are amazing and a beautiful face

FFG, cool route but main motivation is to find an accessible start to the top of Groove Train. Snakes on a Train seems a better bet for me at this point, worked on the top part with some success!

FFG

Awesome Position, 2nd pitch on the Pharos. FFG

Speechless, one of the best climbing experiences of my life. Won't soon forget standing on top of the route, looking over the edge before jumping!

FFG

Aesthetic line despite being a short route, really bouldery crux

First day climbing at Taipain!

So good!

Good climbing!

FFG

Hannahs First 12!

3 tries

FFG

FFG

Super stoked, very fun climbing and my first 8a. Four tries in total

surprise return of Taylor and blow by blow beta while I was on route, pretty neat

cool at the crux

Fun rest day! Hannah linked the first two then I led the last two!

sweatinn

incredible

radical time!

FFG

spicy

FFG

radicali

Birthday sendin

2 tries. Amazing! One of my favorites!

lifetime project completed! had to send after watching mike then taylor eek their way to the top

tie in. climb. fall. wobbler. pull ropes. mutter to self. repeat. will Fall time ever arrive?

4 tries. Used a small crimp (baby Crimp) and a hand heel match rock over lock off to skip the final dyno. Really fun this way, the dyno seemed impossible for me.

2nd Try? First try in a long time.

First time on it in a long time, sent on the warm up burn, felt great to cruise it knowing it felt impossible in the past

wayyy fun and beautiful

3 tries, just had to get through dogleg and trip out till the top

finally, nemesis rig down

Atlas Shrugged Direct Start

FFG

FFG

i know...dyno

soft

FFG

Amazing. Moose

Hannah's first 11!

FFG

2 pitches, white and red, miserable and fun.

French First Go. Fun jugs.

french first go, good old-fashioned fun!

2nd go, fell off thin boulder problem, really tiny crimp in the beginning

6 goes, really cool crux section on thin band of pockets. gotta love the sanctuary! held out for the perfect conditions after bitter saturday

not sure how i held on through the flash-pump and numb fingers. is this how sharma feels on 9b?

3 tries, really psyched. Everyone sent the projects! RPG!

avoiding yet another black point somehow

Had been saving this one for a while, happy I waited.

get higher and higher....

so psyched! Hardest send in a while

2 tries

2 goes, super good

2 goes

2 goes

fun finish moves, middle reminded me of the red

A great finish to an awesome day and one of the most fun weekends of climbing I've had. RPG killing it in Utah! Solid end to the trip together, hoping to meet up again before summer ends! Rifle or Lander!

fairly bouldery, good movement

fun and powerful

2 tries

so beautiful, so good

pumped on jugs...

2 tries. favorite send of the trip!

2 tries, reminded me of buff the wood for some reason

The crux at the top is really quality, fun climbing, smaller crimps and big moves with not the best feet on basically vertical face. Felt hard after doing overhanging section.

So psyched on this one. Hardest I've ever worked on a climb. Looks beautiful and climbs amazing. 19 tries over 9 days throughout the summer/fall. Definitely progressed a lot since the summer/spring.

Super Fun. Starts off with long moves on jug slots, moves into fun crimpy section, then you pull a roof straight into a HP40 style top-out...very unique!

Really Good. Bouldery pocket crux at the beginning is hard and fun. Fell off second crux once after getting through first boulder problem, sent it next go. 6 tries.